Kubota or mahindra

[K5lwq]

My theory simplifies the decision. Pick the weight and frame size you need then if you will be doing a lot of PTO work get the highest HP in that size. If you are doing a lot of ground engaging work go with middle of the road HP. If it is mostly loader work then lower HP is fine. Not complicated at all.

 

[4570Man]

Not very often?
Oh wow I couldn’t disagree more. PTO HP is one of probably the 3 or 4 most important things dictating my tractor buying choices. It has to be a certain HP to run balers, discbines, rakes, tedders, etc. Note I said 3-4 most important. Of course there’s other considerations.
In fact, my last 2 tractors were PTO dyno tested.

Probably doesn’t matter to you since you’re a contractor and a PTO to you is something you put the plastic cover on and has a little pile of dirt on top of it all year.
Got to remember to see things through other people’s eyes sometimes. Tractors used in agriculture, cutting or rototilling, snowblowing, PTO HP is a huge purchase factor.

You’re comparing a different class machine. As long as they can hook a bushhog up how many non commercial owners care?

 

[4570Man]

"It’s not very often a buyers pto hp needs dictate the tractor buying choice with no consideration for anything else."

That statement is true but in my particular circumstances it was also the case. I personally believe that the PTO hp on most of these compact tractors is too low. That's part of their "bleed your wallet" game to push you up to a much larger tractor then what you want or need and make you spend a lot more money then what you want or should need to spend. This is where you hit the point of frustration and tractor shopping becomes like a complex math problem to solve.

Kubota offers 60 hp in a compact tractor and 40 in a compact under 3000 pounds. How much do you need?

 

[4570Man]

But if I have to add wieght to every tractor to get the best ballast, then kubota is still the underdog and to even attempt to get it close to the other it will cost more in ballast.
Secondly your statement about quality is highly subjective and in question from many like me who have owned many brands including kubota. They are not the first words out of my mouth when referring to quality!

Every tractor needs considerable ballast to fully utilize the loader. If you had a big enough tractor or small enough load you might get by without it but if you intend on using 100 percent of the rated capacity the ballast is mandatory.

 

[Hay Dude]

You’re comparing a different class machine. As long as they can hook a bushhog up how many non commercial owners care?

Seriously? All guys do is discuss every detail of everything on their tractors down to number of zerk fittings or the tilt of their steering wheel.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

My theory simplifies the decision. Pick the weight and frame size you need then if you will be doing a lot of PTO work get the highest HP in that size. If you are doing a lot of ground engaging work go with middle of the road HP. If it is mostly loader work then lower HP is fine. Not complicated at all.

That doesn't always work out as you are theorizing. One of the best examples I can provide of this is a 5 foot flail mower that requires a minimum of 30 PTO hp. Almost all 5 foot wide tractors have a max PTO hp rating of 30 so what tractor would one put that flail mower behind?

 

[K5lwq]

That doesn't always work out as you are theorizing. One of the best examples I can provide of this is a 5 foot flail mower that requires a minimum of 30 PTO hp. Almost all 5 foot wide tractors have a max PTO hp rating of 30 so what tractor would one put that flail mower behind?

Well let's see. I have two tractors that is in that 5 ft range. One is 25HP turned up to about 30HP and the other one is 48HP. The 48HP one swings a 64" ditch bank flail 90% of the time and can mow faster than I want to bounce around. Most manufacturers have several power options in each frame size.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

Well let's see. I have two tractors that is in that 5 ft range. One is 25HP turned up to about 30HP and the other one is 48HP. The 48HP one swings a 64" ditch bank flail 90% of the time and can mow faster than I want to bounce around. Most manufacturers have several power options in each frame size.

What are the chances you would have the unicorn Man those specs on that Branson are perfect. I can't argue with that. But here's the deal breaker, there is only one dealer near me and the guy that owns it is a total *******. There are no words to describe on this forum how bad of a person he is. So it once again is Deere or Kubota for me

 

[DieselBound]

"The added weight does not help you mow better, and uses more fuel." Thanks for pointing that out.

Broad brush...

My B7800 is a really light tractor. I don't like running in 4wd all the time (tears things up). If there's a bit of resistance from the brush hog or the ground is a bit wet the tractor was prone to spin the rear wheels. When I got the rears ballasted that changed this dynamic quite a bit. Hilly terrain might be an area where added weight (to help lower center of gravity) might be beneficial.

But, I agree with the "general" statement of weight, normally, not being of benefit for mowing.

 

[paulfun9]

Every tractor needs considerable ballast to fully utilize the loader. If you had a big enough tractor or small enough load you might get by without it but if you intend on using 100 percent of the rated capacity the ballast is mandatory.

That’s what I am saying.