L2800 break-in and fluid changes

[familyman]

I intend to change the engine oil in my new L2800 at 10, 50, 100 and every 100 hrs thereafter. At the first 100 hrs I'll switch to a synthetic. Having owned many cars, trucks, dirtbikes etc., many bought brand new, it's common sense to me to flush out metal from the break-in. I've seen the metal sparkle in the oil as it drains at the 500 mile mark in my vehicles and don't want it in my diesel for too long. By- products of combustion (blow-by) are another reason.

I'm wondering about the tranny oil. The trans comes from Kubota loaded with Super UDT -- real expensive, high quality stuff-- and I think it may be feasible to filter it and return it to the machine little worse for the wear, at least at the 50hr mark. Of course, it makes sense to change it every 400 hrs thereafter, but it seems to me that wear metal from the tranny gears, hydro pump and implements should be easy to filter out. I'd like to hear some opinions or facts from those more experienced than I .
Thanks!
Charley

 

[Larry_T]

In all the years that i run heavey equiment. They only changed the oil the first time. after that not four 3 or 4 thousand hr. But if it where mine i would be careful about filtering it. because its your money if something goes wrong. Larry

 

[familyman]

You're right Larry, I realize that this is not what the owners manual says to do and that if I deviate from that the responsibilty is mine. BUT, with engine oil I can see how the oil becomes chemically pulluted and loses some of its ability to perform and protect, but it seems to me that the UDT would strictly contain metal that could be phisically removed. What else could chang about the UDT in only 50 hrs of use?

 

[RoyJackson]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You're right Larry, I realize that this is not what the owners manual says to do and that if I deviate from that the responsibilty is mine. BUT, with engine oil I can see how the oil becomes chemically pulluted and loses some of its ability to perform and protect, but it seems to me that the UDT would strictly contain metal that could be phisically removed. What else could chang about the UDT in only 50 hrs of use? )</font>


I suggest you follow the manual. That initial oil and filter change interval is to ensure the rings seat properly. Changing the "break in" oil could result in an engine that uses oil excessively. Then, you'd have waranty claims that would be invalid.

I know your intentions are good, but you're doing the wrong thing...

 

[familyman]

Break-in oil? Roy, I've never heard of break-in oil. Is this what manufacturers normally ship in their engines? If so, I presume it's not a synthetic -- although I hear that the Corevette is shipped loaded with Mobil-1 right out of the dealership. Any other info? Thanks.

Charley

 

[TORQUIN]

Same boat here. I figure I'll just change out the motor oil at 50 hrs, as recommended, but I wonder about how long to wait before switching to synthetic.
I know that Cummins recommends NOT putting synthetic in until at least 10K mile so that engine breaks in properly (quite a testament to the anti-wear value of synthetic). Now my question is, what equates to 10K in tractor hours?

Chris

 

[familyman]

Hey, Chris!
Roy seems to think that I'm doing the wrong thing changing my engine oil at the 10hr mark. As I stated earlier, on all of my new vehicles I change engine oil at 500 miles and it's surprising how much metal pours out. It seems that the filter doesn't catch this really fine stuff and it's plainly visible during the drain. I currently run a Toyota Tundra with a V6 that I treated this way and switched to Mobil-1 at 6k mi (changed at 500, 1500, 3k, 6k and every 6k). Now at 24k, it doesn't use a drop of oil between 6k changes and runs smooth as silk. If you figure on an average travel speed of 45mph (I do alot of highway), 10 hrs later you've gone @450 miles; that is why I'm using 10hrs as a first change point on the L2800. I hope Roy or anyone else with info on "break-in oil" reads this and gives me more info -- I try not to stop learning.

 

[RoyJackson]

An earlier poster mentioned about 'Vettes coming from the factory with Mobil 1 in them. I suspect those engines are dynoed (which can be the break in run).

Anyway, the engine's rings and cylinders have to develop a wear pattern for best sealing.
Too slick an oil can prevent this wearing in (or call it "break in").

A few years ago, one used a straight weight (30W, for example) non-detergent oil for the first few thousand miles.

Granted, metallurgy in engines has improved dramatically in the last decade or two, thus reducing the break in requirements. However, it doesn't eliminate the break in...those rings and cylinders still have to wear in.

Why do you think the manuals call out an initial oil change at 50 hours? Do you think the manufacturers want warranty claims by extending the initial lubricant changes?

Obviously, you've got to do what you think is right for your equipment. I just think I'd stick with the manufacturer's maintenance schedule.

I am going to add a caveat. Although my 790's manual calls out routine (post break in) oil changes at 200 hours, I do it annually. Heck..might take me two or three years to get 200 hours! I do think the manufacturers base the maintenance intervals on agricultural/commercial usage which would put a lot of hours on these machines in a few years. We residential users don't use our equipment near as much as that...

 

[familyman]

Hey, Roy, thanks for the response.
I used to work in advertising (please don't hold it against me) where I learned a thing or two about how manufacturers of consumer products think and plan -- in this case I'm referring to "planned obsolescense". Most things are designed and engineered to wear out so you can spend more money later replacing them. That way, companies stay in business, the economy keeps on rolling, etc., etc.,. They go to great lengths to discover what consumer tolerance and expectations are with regard to the life span of their goods. The spend big bucks on materials and engineering research to fine tune what they manufacture so it lives just long enough to ensure some customer loyalty.
Whew! I don't mean to ramble but I question every manufacturers recommendations when it comes to upkeep. I've gotten over 300k out of several vehicles, so I've convinced myself that there is some merit to this approach.
ANYHOW ---- I really wanted a 790, but 2 goofy dealers prevented me from getting one. If you ever feel inclined, I'd like to compare notes: L2800 vs 790 and find out what I missed!
Best regards, Charley