L3010 factory options

[Matyac]

After weeks of research, I've decided to go with the L3010.
However, I'm still not clear on the purpose/utility of a couple of the factory options listed in the sales brochure.

First is the "enclosed auxilliary remote hydraulic control valves". The brochure says "up to three remote valves allow you to perform more operations with hydraulically-powered implements". Could these be used to add "top and tilt" functionality to the 3-point hitch implements? I'm planning to do a lot of gravel road maintenace, and a box scraper with top and tilt would be a lot of help.

Second is the "draft control kit". The brochure says "the optional draft control kit improves precision and operating performance of the 3-point hitch. You can select from position, draft, or mixed control to set the vertical height or depth of the implement in use". I guess the main problem is that I don't understand what "draft" means.

Finally, the front weight bracket. It is an option with 4WD, but I think it worthwhile to have. Is there any downside to ordering it? Would it interfere with the Kubota loader?

Thanks.

-Scott

 

[Mark_in_NH]

I can't be of much help with the draft control, for I to, am not sure what it is or what it does.
The <font color=blue>"enclosed auxilliary remote hydraulic control valves</font color=blue> are for exactly what you mentioned. a TNT or a woodsplitter a backhoe or almost any other 3PH implement that might require connection to your hydraulic system.
The front weight bracket, in my opinion, is a 6 of one or a half a dozen of the other expense. If you plan on removing your FEL while using your 3PH attachments then I suppose the weight bracket would be a very good idea to have.
I personally have never removed my FEL and probably won't ( only time will tell ) so I have never had to use my front weight bracket.
I believe that ( take this with a grain of salt ) by all rights and design, the FEL should be out far enough in front of the tractor that there should be plenty of room for the weight bracket without it interferring.

 

[Carl_NH]

Scott,

Draft is 3PT height.

Draft control is used to control 3Pt implements like a plow to operate at a set depth. My understanding is: Position, is the standard setup all tractors - move the 3Pt level to a set number and the implement lowers/raises to that point, Draft maintains the set depth when tractor moves over irregular surfaces. Mixed control would be a combination of the two but I don't know why one would use the combination setup.

So this option may be useful for a box blade, but if you use a landscape rake typically they have wheels that keep the tines set at the depth you want.

Carl

 

[Boondox]

Scott -- Nice choice! I traded up to an L3010 a year ago and absolutely love it!

I got one set of hydraulic remotes and am really sold on the concept. Use them to change the angle on my rear blade while plowing in the winter or crowning the road in the dry months. In the winter it saves me the often unsafe task of dismounting on ice and wrestling the angle. When crowning it allows me to back the blade away from gnarly boulders then return it to the desired position when the danger is past. And the backhoe I take delivery of next week will run off my remotes. Highly recommended.

Draft control I don't have, have never seen, and around here have never found an advocate of.

Front weights for me = FEL. I never take it off. And if I need more weight up front, I fill the bucket with sand.

Be sure to update your profile. A lot of times the old salts will tailor their responses to your questions by looking at what part of the country you live in (i.e., weather norms) and what sort of terrain you have to deal with.

Enjoy that tractor, give it a fitting name, and post pics!

Pete

 

[radman]

The rear auxillary remote valves are 1 to 3 separate levers and valves for the rear of the tractor. If you are considering top and tilt, then you will need at least 2 valves. They can be added later if you dont get them now. I added mine later. 1 valve costs about $700, 2 valves about $1000, and 3 valves about $ 1400 (plus labor). Takes about 3-4 hours and needed to remove the rear tire and fender on my 3710 to attach.
My dealer had a pile of front wieght brackets off of other grand L tractors. At that time, he said that the tractors come with the bracket. The bracket was removed in most cases for mounting of a FEL. Therefore, the pile of left over brackets. I asked for 2 and he just gave them to me. The FEL mounts and bracket require the same bolt holes and are not compatible with each other. On my 3710, I attached the weight bracket to a 4x6" peice of angle iron and then made small plates to attach it to the loader mounts when the FEL is off. The 2nd mounting bracket was used to on the rear of my tractor on the 3pt lift arms. Remember, you would also need to buy weights as well.
Draft control is used to lift the 3 point when the implement is pulled through the ground. As the implement (ie plow) is pulled through the ground, uneven terrain, hard packed soil or whatever, the heavier pull of the tractor in these areas results in more force on the 3rd link. The mounting point of the 3rd link to the tractor is different with draft control. The extra force on the mounting point flexes slightly and this in turn is attaced to a small lever which activates the 3 point lift. Now the tractor 3 point lifts and raises the implement slightly and thus pulls easier. Now since the implement pulls easier the flex in the mounting point is less and the lift stops. This then tells the draft control to now lower the lift arms back to the original set position. This process can be repeated over and over without any input from the operator. The key is that this only works when there is extra force applied to the 3rd link. The sensitivity of the draft control can be varied. It works best with implements such as a plow, subsoiler etc, that can pull hard and exert real forces on the 3rd link. I don't think it would work well with a tiller, blade or other implements that dont have a strong force on the 3rd link. I dont know the actual price. I would guess a few hundred dollars. I bought one on a sale for $2.50! (still haven't put in on).

 

[Frank_Mulligan]

Matyac,

One of the options you didn't mention was the type of transmission you are getting. I opted for the HST and boy am I glad I did. I just brushcut about 5 acres on our property of 4 foot tall weeds. As I was cutting I came across at least 2 dozen small evergreens that I wanted to save. Also, there was some (still some) thicker brushes that grew that I didn't want to cut with the brush cutter (I'll probably dig them up). the HST tranny made it alot easier to back into these trees (without cutting them up), than the manual trannsmission would.

I also would probably never take off my FEL and therefore would have no need for the front-end weight bracket.

You definitly want to consider the implements you are planning on using before you invest in the remotes. I have a Woods brush bull and a box blade that do not use remotes. It seems to me that most implements do not use them. Also, if you get more that one, I'm note really sure what you would do with the other one or two while you were using one. Do some implements use more than one?

As someone else already noted, with Kubota, if you have 1 remote and want to upgrade to 2, you have to replace the 1 with the 2 (at full price of the 2). Plan ahead!

 

[Buster57]

The only option I ordered was the HST (I have never had any other type of transmission-spoiled me!) and heavy-duty bucket.
Works great-what a fine machine!

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Buster57,
There is some Shady Looking Character trying to drive off with your Bota !!!!!!!! {laugh] /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Buster57]

He already is thinking of all the money he is going to get mowing fields in the neighborhood.
All he has to do is grow big enough to reach the controls with his feet!
In the meantime the one with the most hours on the machine is our Tom cat!