L3130 Wont start or runs for a second

[CTyler]

So my trusty L3130 failed me last night. It started up and ran for a few seconds then quit and would not restart.
Today it started and ran then would not start again after shutting it off.

So I did a little tshooting today and discovered it only starts and run while the igniters are on.
Soon as it goes off the tractor quits. So its definitely shutting off the fuel as I can turn on/off the
key every seconds or so to keep it running. I also hear a loud click when it quits and that is the
fuel valve(?). Might be called something else.

Checking the voltage on the fuel valve(?) on the block, it only had 12 volts while the igniters are on.
So I'm thinking there must be another relay some where that is controlling power to that valve and the igniters.
I do hear a small click under that dash so it may be there.

Anyone run in to this?

Thanks
Chris

 

[CTyler]

Found a diagram and Google tells me that fuel valve is the "engine stop solenoid".

 

[Carl_NH]

Could be a bad fuel cutoff solenoid or bad relay that controls it. The fuel solenoid is supposed to stay open or on when it running.

 

[Carl_NH]

Yes - that is what I was referring to - the engine stop solenoid.

 

[Roadworthy]

I don't know your tractor but from what reading I've done it appears the fuel shut off solenoid is only powered briefly when the engine is turned off. That way if it fails your tractor will still run. If yours is getting power all the time you have a problem. Could your ignition switch itself be the cause of the problem? Is there possibly a blown fuse somewhere? This is just blue sky stuff. I'm not there to troubleshoot the issue so consider it food for thought.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The L3130 I think has 2 windings on the coil, 1 stop and 1 run. The BX2230 and G2160 I have are engine stop only coils.

 

[moship]

The L3130 I think has 2 windings on the coil, 1 stop and 1 run. The BX2230 and G2160 I have are engine stop only coils.

The stop solenoid (SS) does have two windings according to the electrical diagram, but it looks like both SS conductors are tied together and lead to the stop solenoid relay (single wire). The Operator Presence Control (OPC) Timer is also part of this system along with the key switch. Both of these items (switch and OPC) are what trigger the low side of relay. Power from switch should be available in both run and start position.

 

[Smokeydog]

There are at least two kinds of fuel stop solenoids. Most modern fuel stop solenoids have two coils. A high amp pull circuit to open the fuel valve when the starter is turning. Then a low amp hold circuit to keep the fuel valve open with key on. Spring to close fuel valve when off when you turn the key off. Engine will not run with a bad solenoid system.

Three wear items.
1)Solenoid. There is a thin rubber boot covering the actuator rod that keeps dirt out of rod and spring. A dead or compromised coil
2)Relay.
3)Fusible link wire. This is a high amp fuse to protect the solenoid wiring. This is a special wire type fuse. Sometimes with one loop connector or two. It’s not burned because you can start. But if connections are corroded it can cause low voltage to the hold circuit and let go.

WSM has good info on how to test and trouble shoot. Most folks try the easiest first by replacing the relay and see if that helps. Then the solenoid the usual suspect. Last the fusible link.

There are exceptions. My 80s vintage M5030 and B20 used timed fuel stop solenoids. You could hear the solenoid turnoff and spring return to run several seconds after the engine stopped. The engine could start and run with a bad solenoid or relay. You would have to pull the manual fuel stop to shut the engine down. When the fuel solenoid shutoff system went bad I simply unplugged the solenoid and went manual. While troubleshooting is a little different the replacing of parts to fix is usually the same.

Older tractors didn’t have all that electrical nonsense. You manually controlled the fuel stop valve. A nearly bulletproof system.

 

[CTyler]

Thanks everyone.

More google searching...
It looks like the Glow relay also sends power to the engine stop solenoid.
Seeing as how I have 12 volts at the solenoid until that relay shuts off,
I have to assume that relay has a failure.
So I'll tear apart the panels to replace that relay.