L39 Loader Handle Broken Off

[Goodluck w/ That]

Pushing snow here on the east coast yesterday & the loader control handle broke. It would just flop around. I started taking it apart & the handle broke right off where it threads into the plate. I thought about tring to weld it but I'm scared I might melt the wires for the Axl. front Hydro switches that run through the handle. Looks like I would have to cut the connectors off to pull the wires out of the handle. I wasn't very happy in the middle of plowing snow. It's a used machine & only had it about 3 weeks. Anyone else ever heard of this, I'm guessing it's just one of those freak unexplainable things??

 

[curtisfarmer]

I believe the warranties on the TLBs are 1 year 1250 hours. Are you past that? Sounds like a freak thing or a freak did a bad thing before you and now you became the last straw. Let us all know what happens.

 

[Goodluck w/ That]

It's a 2006 with 880hrs., I was thinking about buying a piece of threaded pipe if I can find the correct thread size & making a new one. It's gonna be alot of work drilling & tapping new screw holes for the handle & then I'll still have to feed the wires threw somehow. At this point, it will probaly be after christmas before it gets fixed.

 

[jlrsn]

Have you thought about cutting new threads on the existing handle rod/shaft or is it too short? Can you get the broken piece out of the control using an easy out? I don't have any aux switches on my L39 Handle but cutting and replacing the wires is quite easy to do.
Good luck,
Jim

 

[Goodluck w/ That]

Not a bad idea cutting new threads, alittle shoter probaly wouldn't hurt but I don't have anything big enough to cut threads that size. The bottom piece I could actually get out by hand after I removed the lock nut.

 

[jlrsn]

Usually, for ease of manufacture, a lot of Handle Shafts have the same threads on each end, one for attachment and one for the Handle Knob. I have never looked at mine but it's worth a try if the threads match to remove the knob and other switches and for now screw it in and use it. If it works for now put a rubber knob, wrap tape, or something to protect your hand when using it.

Another option is if you can get a Bottoming Tap into the base plate metric pipe threads and convert the threads to SAE or Metric Threads and use a Thin Palnut (Locking Nut) to keep it from twisting and damaging the control internals. Then at any good hardware store you can get a matching Die to thread the shaft. I've never worked with Metric Pipe Threads but most pipe threads have a near equal Tap size. Make some type of holding fixture to hold the base plate against the twisting forces of the Tap. Use grease in the tap flutes to catch the shavings.

If you have to join cut wires use a bare solderless connector covered with Heat Shrink Tubing, not solder, as once a stranded wire is soldered it is then an inflexible solid wire prone to break.

Maybe the best solution is to call Messick's @ 1-877-260-3528 for a new shaft or a used Kubota Parts Outlet for a used one.

Good luck,
Jim

 

[jlrsn]

The bottom piece I could actually get out by hand after I removed the lock nut.

I just noticed that the shaft has a locknut so it is not pipe threads. That being the case take the locknut to a good hardware store and find a Metric Bolt that fits the locknut. Then buy a Metric Die of that size to thread the Shaft.

I'm presently 1,300 miles away from my L39 for Christmas or I'd take a look at mine.
Again,
Good luck,
Jim

 

[manganos]

Ahh too bad you are too far north. I have the tool to cut new threads for you but I'm in "Southern" VA. I'm sure a machine shop could fix ya right up for cheap!

 

[dogcop]

does your handle have front aux hydraulics in it? if not i have the handle from mine when i put the front remote hydraulics on machine

 

[Just Bill]

The following is from MARYLAND METRICS THREAD IDENTIFICATION CHART
I found this with Google, It could be straight pipe thread which uses a jam nut.
MOST METRIC COUNTRIES IN EUROPE AND ASIA USE THE BRITISH BASED INCH SYSTEM (ISO) FOR MEASURING NON-HYDRAULIC/PNEUMATIC PIPE AND TUBING THREADS.
You should be able to disconnect the wires from one end or the other and pull them out.(or not)
Its normal for thin wall pipe to crack in the threads and doesn't take much effort.