Land Plane adjustments

   / Land Plane adjustments #11  
With the blades set below the rail, you'd always be cutting the road- except- the rails woiuld be riding on the surface- please further explain your thinking on this. My road has lots of woop to doos that are maybe 8 feet long then a little dip of 4 feet then another 8 foot woop. I figured the only way fo fix it would be to put a grader on the road with a "wheelbase" longer than 15'. I'm curious about the adjustment levels and what you experienced.
I have the same problem with "woop to doos" far apart and I cannot figure out how to cure it. I have a land plane but do not have the skill/knowledge to solve the problem. Bought it because it was supposed to be "easy to use".

I have thought about getting a box blade to knock down the high spots and fill in the low spots, but I have read a box blade is even tougher to use than a LP. The cheapest 72" box blade I have found is about $1500. Very reluctant to make the investment. My drive is only 250-300 yards long. Wish I could find a unit to rent or borrow.

Following with interest!!!
 
   / Land Plane adjustments #12  
I've worked on my woop te doos with some success. With the LPGS - scarifiers down - I loosen the surface. Then with the rear blade - drag the loose soil into the low area. Then drive over and compact the material in the low spot.

What really works best - compact the low spot after a gentile rain.

This only works about 50% of the time. When the driveway dries out - it's hard as old concrete. Difficult to get the dirt in the low spots to be that hard. But I keep trying.
 
   / Land Plane adjustments #13  
I've worked on my woop te doos with some success. With the LPGS - scarifiers down - I loosen the surface. Then with the rear blade - drag the loose soil into the low area. Then drive over and compact the material in the low spot.

What really works best - compact the low spot after a gentile rain.

This only works about 50% of the time. When the driveway dries out - it's hard as old concrete. Difficult to get the dirt in the low spots to be that hard. But I keep trying.
Years and years ago, I had a dump truck driver that did me no favors as he spread seven loads of stone in my driveway, at each start and stop point I had a large hump and I wasn’t smart enough to level that hump out before I started spreading the stone out to even it out
That being said, I had a Whoopty do at each point and it’s been so many years later that I’ve almost got the Whoopty Doo all worked out but it’s been a chore

Land planes do a nice job on a pre-existing flat drive, but it doesn’t deal with the front of the tractor raising and lowering very well.

Only using it once or twice a year even on 1000 foot driveway doesn’t give you very much practice or experience
 
   / Land Plane adjustments #15  
Use the draft control.
I tried that and it did not work well but I do not have scarifiers on my LP. Plan to add them this year and try again.

Thinking about using a chain instead of a solid connection to the top link as well.
 
   / Land Plane adjustments #17  
I have tines, and not sure if a Bobcat CT235 has draft control
 
   / Land Plane adjustments #18  
Similar road here with concrete grindings. With the box blade set level use the top tilt control to lift the back end for cutting the high spots and then push the back end down to spread the material in the lows. Don't try to fix it all at once. Just an inch at a time will get it done. You can try using the draft control but it takes more practice to know when it is cutting and filling.
The land plane will have similar results when using the top tilt.
 
 

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