Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up?

   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #1  

hunt4570

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Grand L3540 ,724 loader, bucket, grapple and now forks also! And just for OP.. a pool!
So I picked up a Woods GSS72 Grading Scraper (Land Plane) yesterday to do some roadwork (new roads) and level a new field (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/341417-field-cleaning-thoughts.html).

I got the unit home, unloaded it, and took it out to play a bit. Tried it on my gravel driveway first and WHOA, did it make a cut... nice and smooth but seemed pretty aggressive. Took it out on one of my new dirt roads (logging roads for now but will end up being my service road). Worked pretty well from what I could tell.

So here's my question... The 2 moldboards are set an inch or so below the adjustable side runners. Watched a couple U-Tube videos on these things and it seems the non-adjustable units are flush on the bottoms, and one of the vids of one with adjustable sides like mine made it sound like the adjustment is more for wear.

Should I adjust the side runners to be flush with the moldboards? How do you guys that have one of these have them set up? Flush from the get go or no?

Thanks, Scott



 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #2  
I haven't had to adjust that part yet. But will need to by the end of summer. I control the aggressive bite with the top link. The LPGS is one of my favorite tools to use.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #3  
Since your skids are narrow I would try it with the blades set flush. More important is adjusting the top link so that when moving forward the plane is flat with full contact along the length of the skids. You want to see both cutting edges in firm contact with the drive. The land plane has a tendency to grab with the front or leading edge causing the rear of the plane to raise up, you need to adjust that out. Once you get a little time in the seat you will be able to alter the settings, pitch the plane forward a little to dig more, or pitch back to dig less. In reverse I find I have to readjust the angle a little to allow the rear skids to raise slightly. So with a turnbuckle it may be easier to travel in one direction for optimum results without constant adjustments.

In most cases 3ph or rockshaft is all the way down.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Since your skids are narrow I would try it with the blades set flush. More important is adjusting the top link so that when moving forward the plane is flat with full contact along the length of the skids. You want to see both cutting edges in firm contact with the drive. The land plane has a tendency to grab with the front or leading edge causing the rear of the plane to raise up, you need to adjust that out. Once you get a little time in the seat you will be able to alter the settings, pitch the plane forward a little to dig more, or pitch back to dig less. In reverse I find I have to readjust the angle a little to allow the rear skids to raise slightly. So with a turnbuckle it may be easier to travel in one direction for optimum results without constant adjustments.

In most cases 3ph or rockshaft is all the way down.

Thanks, I'm going to pull it,, on the tractor, into my shop this morning, concrete floor, and adjust it all flush and flat... give me a good starting point.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #5  
Mine came adjusted with the "blades" set an inch or so below the side skids. Seems to work just fine set that way - for me. It became immediately apparent that top link adjustment was the critical factor. I got a hydraulic top link and now I can easily make any needed adjustment on the fly.

I've used mine to create dirt trails/roads thru out my property and as the main maintenance implement for my mile long gravel driveway.

I fought with my rear blade for years - trying to keep my driveway smooth. I never developed the required skill and I think my rear blade @ 566# is just too light. The land plane grading scraper has been a real God send for driveway maintenance.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #6  
With the blades set below you will be moving more than you want to on a driveway with freshly dropped stone. Set them flush and try a few different settings with the top link.


Some folks do a final pass in reverse to get a real fine finish and the plane does give good results doing so but I have found that I don't have to adjust anything for this just take a little weight off by slightly raising the 3 point when doing so and the results are the same as when I adjust the top link.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #7  
Thanks, I'm going to pull it,, on the tractor, into my shop this morning, concrete floor, and adjust it all flush and flat... give me a good starting point.

Did you get to try it out after making the adjustments?

I find that using a heavy roller afterwards to pack down a driveway helps too if you have one.
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Did you get to try it out after making the adjustments?

I find that using a heavy roller afterwards to pack down a driveway helps too if you have one.

I did, driveway went ok, probably need to rake it smooth to get the "wind rows" out of it.

Also, just got back in from about 3 hours out on the field which will be my shooting range. It does a bang up job of smoothing things out and pulling/scraping "some" of the roots out of the ground, so what I'm left with is a hairy field.









So what I'm trying to determine is.... what to do about them? just leave them and plant? Disc them up (might potentially get worse) or maybe even run my flail mower over them?
What to do , what to do?????
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #9  
You should schedule a "field day" for all TBNers to come over with their various tractors and implements and do demonstrations on your property. Only stipulation would be that what ever is started has to be finished before leaving.:)
 
   / Land Plane (grading scraper) initial set up? #10  
Are the roots still attached to the main root or are they loose? If loose, your landscape rake should take care of them pretty well.

Mowing them would work, but the dust cloud from mowing would be ridiculous. Maybe wait for a rain. Still, you'd have spikes sticking out all over...just shorter.

If your town is like mine, there are street corners where migrants, or otherwise, congregate to pick up day jobs. Cash only. They usually get $10 - $12 an hour. Hand them (or one of them) some tree pruning loppers and have your bucket filled (if the root sticks aren't loose). You might even arm yourself with a pair. While working, debris and larger rocks can be picked up and thrown in the bucket as well.

The loppers can be used just below ground level but they will be quite dull when finished and will need sharpening.
 
 

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