Landscape rake gauge wheels

   / Landscape rake gauge wheels #1  

Robert F.

Bronze Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
51
Location
Durham, Maine
Does anybody ever use a landscape rake with gauge wheels and putting the wheels in front of the rake rather than behind? Seems to be much more controllable when the wheels are in front of the rake. with the wheels in back, I can't seem to be able to prevent it from digging in too aggressively. With the wheels in front with adjusting the top link, I can easily control it. Am I the only one doing this or do others do this also?
 
   / Landscape rake gauge wheels #2  
Does anybody ever use a landscape rake with gauge wheels and putting the wheels in front of the rake rather than behind? Seems to be much more controllable when the wheels are in front of the rake. with the wheels in back, I can't seem to be able to prevent it from digging in too aggressively. With the wheels in front with adjusting the top link, I can easily control it. Am I the only one doing this or do others do this also?

With the wheels in the rear, you should be able to disconnect the top link (or better yet use a floating link) so that the lift arm bars and the gauge wheels are controlling the height of the rake. I have the gauge wheels out as far as I can from the rear of the rake to have it act more like road grader or mid-mount blade. I think that is what you want for a smoother surface.
 
   / Landscape rake gauge wheels #3  
The purpose of the gauge wheels is to hold the rake at the same height regardless of the terrain your tractor is diving over. To accomplish this, the wheels must ride on the ground that the rake just leveled out. By putting the wheels in front of the rake, it would basically render the rake useless since the wheels would just ride up and down on the unleveled ground and the rake would be just along for the ride. The rake would do nothing. If your rake is digging in, then you have to either make the top link longer, raise the three point, lower your gauge wheels, or a combo of all the above. I always try to position the three point hitch so the main beam part of the rake is parallel to the ground while the gauge wheels are also on the ground. If the rake is too high at that point, raise the wheels. If the rake touches the ground before the wheels, then lower the wheels. This way you can set the height of the rake at petty much any height you require. It takes some playing around with all the adjustments. What nice is when you lower the 3 pt. hitch all the way, the top link holds the gauge wheel on the ground and the rake is parrallel to the ground.
 
   / Landscape rake gauge wheels
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for all the replies. My problem was that I was after lowering the rake to the ground, I was leaving the 3 pt in full float which made the rake bite too hard and sink itself in the ground. The wheels would then follow the new ground level and everything kept going down until the tractor ran out of traction and stopped.
I've put the wheels back behind the rake and figured out that I have to return the rockshaft control lever to the center position after the rake is on the ground.
Sometimes it takes a while getting through this learning curve.:confused2:
 
 

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