Lawn Roller

[3238dpw]

I was wondering what you folks think of buying one of these and cutting off the tongue. Then mounting a quick attach plate. My concerns are that the bearings and axle would not take some of the forces applied to them. I would think they are not designed to take the weight of the roller when lifted, just pull it. I also know sooner or later it will have to take the weight of the front end of my PT425.Swisher Steel Lawn Roller 52in., Model# 12885 | Lawn Rollers | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[MuncyBob]

Why not just pull it as shown in the photo?

Not sure what your application may be but most people would say not to roll a lawn due to compaction. I think this year may be the first year that I will try a core aerator on my lawn.

 

[catsco]

I'm considering purchasing that same roller, but for compactin the decomposed granite that is our driveway and most of the roads around here.

Just driving on it compacts it well over time, but a roller might help considerably after grading and applying new material.

I would just be pulling it - with 32 gallons of water and its weight, it would be just under 430 lbs. total, possibly not heavy enough.

I considered making another concrete one like I had years ago, but it can't be made lighter for moving it elsewhere.

Since a gallon of water weighs 8.345 lbs, and a C.F. weighs 62.427 lbs, a C.F. contains about 7.48 gallons.

Therefore, concrete of the same volume would be 32 gallons/7.48 gallons per C.F. or 4.28 C.F.

Concrete is about 145 lbs./C.F., so same size concrete would weigh 620 lbs. All the time!

620 (or maybe more) lbs. might compact better, but pretty much stays on the ground and on your property.

My old one was about 1,200 lbs. That's why I no longer have it after we moved nearly 2,000 miles!

This is probably more than you wanted to think about, but gives you an idea of what it would take to move either water or concrete roller of this size.

From the picture and description, it looks like the frame would never withstand being lifted when the roller is full of water.

Hope this helps.

Mark H.

 

[ponytug]

Dear Catsco,

You might consider adding sand; I is nearly as heavy as concrete, and you can get it back out if you have to.

Worst case on this, you break the frame hauling it around and then you have to get it welded.

Go for it and keep us updated!

All the best,

Peter

I'm considering purchasing that same roller, but for compactin the decomposed granite that is our driveway and most of the roads around here.

Just driving on it compacts it well over time, but a roller might help considerably after grading and applying new material.

I would just be pulling it - with 32 gallons of water and its weight, it would be just under 430 lbs. total, possibly not heavy enough.

I considered making another concrete one like I had years ago, but it can't be made lighter for moving it elsewhere.

Since a gallon of water weighs 8.345 lbs, and a C.F. weighs 62.427 lbs, a C.F. contains about 7.48 gallons.

Therefore, concrete of the same volume would be 32 gallons/7.48 gallons per C.F. or 4.28 C.F.

Concrete is about 145 lbs./C.F., so same size concrete would weigh 620 lbs. All the time!

620 (or maybe more) lbs. might compact better, but pretty much stays on the ground and on your property.

My old one was about 1,200 lbs. That's why I no longer have it after we moved nearly 2,000 miles!

This is probably more than you wanted to think about, but gives you an idea of what it would take to move either water or concrete roller of this size.

From the picture and description, it looks like the frame would never withstand being lifted when the roller is full of water.

Hope this helps.

Mark H.

 

[ancientlake]

Seems like if you "hard mounted" the roller it would not follow the contour of the ground and not stay in full contact. Even if it was floating, I would think that only one end would contact the ground at any one time. If it could float and pivot side to side I guess it would work.
Chris

 

[3238dpw]

Well, I understand about the compaction issues on a lawn, but this is really something I want for seeding new lawns and more just to firm the soil. there are many different tractor pulled seeders out there that have a firming roller on the back. Most cases I wouldn't even fill it more than a third of the way. I don't want to tow it because I want the agility of it on the front of the machine. It would save alot of time when trying to do production like I need in a lawn business. I already have an aeravator which works great but when seeding could use a roller.Welcome to First Products

 

[ponytug]

If you want to push it, rather than pull it, I think you will run into issues of the tractor pushing the roller into the ground. Put another way, the box blade and 4N1 blade work very well with the PT in reverse. I think that this tool would work best being pulled (or towed in back). Optimally, you would probably want to put the existing hitch into something like a large sleeve, or a couple of large links of chain that would enable it to pivot right/left as it was being pulled for maximal ground contact.

Just my $0.02.

All the best,

Peter

Well, I understand about the compaction issues on a lawn, but this is really something I want for seeding new lawns and more just to firm the soil. there are many different tractor pulled seeders out there that have a firming roller on the back. Most cases I wouldn't even fill it more than a third of the way. I don't want to tow it because I want the agility of it on the front of the machine. It would save alot of time when trying to do production like I need in a lawn business. I already have an aeravator which works great but when seeding could use a roller.Welcome to First Products

 

[KMA]

I have a similar roller, but it attaches to a 2" ball hitch. I have the hitch quick attach plate, and a 2" ball mount I use with my landscaping trailer. I mostly pull it backwards, but do go forward when I need to get into tight places and corners.

I would definitely not lift it up when full of water. If you are hard mounting it, it may work somewhat in float but I'm not sure. The hitch style I use has no problem with the contour of the land.

Hope this helps!

 

[BobRip]

If you want to push it, rather than pull it, I think you will run into issues of the tractor pushing the roller into the ground. Put another way, the box blade and 4N1 blade work very well with the PT in reverse. I think that this tool would work best being pulled (or towed in back). Optimally, you would probably want to put the existing hitch into something like a large sleeve, or a couple of large links of chain that would enable it to pivot right/left as it was being pulled for maximal ground contact.



just my $0.02.

All the best,
Peter

I don't see that a roller would dig into the ground when pushed. I have experience this with the 4n1, snow blade, etc. The lawn roller is not the same. I have pushed a wheel barrow and hand truck and they don't dig in. Just my 0.01 worth.

 

[ponytug]

Hmm. Well it may be the blind leading the blind here, since I haven't used the lawn roller myself, but in my limited experience there is a big difference between pushing a handtruck and pulling one.

Any lawn roller users out there?

All the best,


Peter

I don't see that a roller would dig into the ground when pushed. I have experience this with the 4n1, snow blade, etc. The lawn roller is not the same. I have pushed a wheel barrow and hand truck and they don't dig in. Just my 0.01 worth.