Lawn Sprinkler System Cost

[Bird]

I really feel like it would be too expensive, but I sure would like to have a sprinkler system instead of moving these garden hoses and sprinklers around. I know I need to contact some of the people in the business and get some estimates, but naturally, I don't know anyone in the business so I don't know which those listed in the yellow pages are better than others, or why. Anyone want to take a guess at what a decent sprinkler system might cost for a 70' x 130' residential lot with a 1295 sq. ft. house, plus attached 2 car garage, a 12' x 22' breezeway and a 22' x 26' shop attached and under the same roof as the house, plus an 8' x 12' garden tool storage shed. Of course a water line will have to go under a double wide concrete driveway.

 

[Skipholiday]

Hi Bird:
I installed irrigation systems for close to 20 years both commercial and residential. My sons took it over when my up and down function retired..
If you could get me a plot plan I could give you a close estimate to parts cost.(rough sketch works)

They are relatively inexpensive. Labor is the expensive part.
I install only nelson equipment but others rainbird toro etc are good also.

The large nelson turf heads (6000 series) used with a mid range nozzle put out about 3 gpm.
With 60 lbs of pressure they spray about 35 to 40 feet with a medium size nozzle.
What we need to know is what your pressure is and how many gpm you have.
The easiest way to tell how many gpm you have is to turn your faucet on wide open into a 5 gallon bucket for 15 seconds and times that by 4. (not exact but close enough)

The Nelson 6000 series heads cost $18 bucks here in Bama. (5 year warranty)
Nelson 1 inch valves are $16 a piece.

On an average system I will install 4 to 6 turf heads on a zone.
I will usually irrigate the beds with spray heads (nelson 6304). These heads do not turn and put from 1 gpm to 2.5 gpm. (varies according to nozzle)

1st thing is to find out your pressure and gpm. Then you can tell how many heads you can install on each zone. Its best to separate beds and turf areas.
Altho some ppl do water them together.

Hope this helps.
I don't know alot about tractors but I should be able to answer any irrigation question you may have.

 

[VABlue]

I'm also thinking about doing this, but the labor costs scare me! Skip may not like this, but Rainbird offers a free design service on their web page. It wants the same thing Skip was asking for - pressure, gpm, and a sketch on graph paper. They'll send you back a design layout and parts list.

I know I could do all of the work myself, but I don't know the tricks to make things easier and last longer.

 

[Bird]

1st thing is to find out your pressure and gpm.

Well, I don't have a pressure gauge to get an accurate measure, but I'm confident that I have 60 or more psi; probably more. I've only blown out one garden hose so far. And using your method of 15 seconds, it appears that I have about 12 gpm; 3 gallons or more in 15 seconds. I've scanned a copy of the survey and am going to see if it's legible if I post it; it may be or it may not. The one error I see is that the 16' wide driveway into the garage is not tapered as their survey shows, but is the same width all the way. And yes, that's another concrete driveway on the left side that goes all the way back even with the back corner of the house. The water meter is just to the left of the main driveway and just inside what they show as the property line. Apparently the city has a 50' wide right-of-way, but currently only a 20-25' street.

The survey shows the lot to be 70' x 135' (plus the area at the front that's part of the street right-of-way). That big "X" at the back of the house is a 12' x 22' breezeway and the "building" it connects to is actually all under one roof. That "shed" at the left rear of the lot is an 8' x 12' storage building with my lawnmower and other garden tools.

I tried calling 4 local companies this morning; got 3 answering machines and the one and only who answered the phone said it would "probably" run about $2400 to $2500, but if done during the slower winter months, probably about a 10% discount.

 

[Skipholiday]

Most layout/design of systems are free. Designing them is fairly simple. I normally shoot for double coverage or close. If you space them at the exact range, any pressure change or wind can change your coverage.
The best thing to do to make the system last is put it deep,the deeper the better. I try to go minimum 12 inchs and I'm in an area with an 8 inch normal frost line.
I also like to use auto drains. When the individual zone shuts down and the pressure in the line reduces to 20lbs the drain opes and the water in the line seeps into the ground..

I'm also thinking about doing this, but the labor costs scare me! Skip may not like this, but Rainbird offers a free design service on their web page. It wants the same thing Skip was asking for - pressure, gpm, and a sketch on graph paper. They'll send you back a design layout and parts list.

I know I could do all of the work myself, but I don't know the tricks to make things easier and last longer.

Bird I have to goto physical therapy. (new knee)
When I return I will see about enlarging your image and getting you a close parts cost.
You can install this yourself. Get a couple of helpers and it goes pretty easy.

Well, I don't have a pressure gauge to get an accurate measure, but I'm confident that I have 60 or more psi; probably more. I've only blown out one garden hose so far. And using your method of 15 seconds, it appears that I have about 12 gpm; 3 gallons or more in 15 seconds. I've scanned a copy of the survey and am going to see if it's legible if I post it; it may be or it may not. The one error I see is that the 16' wide driveway into the garage is not tapered as their survey shows, but is the same width all the way. And yes, that's another concrete driveway on the left side that goes all the way back even with the back corner of the house. The water meter is just to the left of the main driveway and just inside what they show as the property line. Apparently the city has a 50' wide right-of-way, but currently only a 20-25' street.

The survey shows the lot to be 70' x 135' (plus the area at the front that's part of the street right-of-way). That big "X" at the back of the house is a 12' x 22' breezeway and the "building" it connects to is actually all under one roof. That "shed" at the left rear of the lot is an 8' x 12' storage building with my lawnmower and other garden tools.

I tried calling 4 local companies this morning; got 3 answering machines and the one and only who answered the phone said it would "probably" run about $2400 to $2500, but if done during the slower winter months, probably about a 10% discount.

 

[Bird]

It's been quite a few years ago, of course, but I did once help a friend install a sprinkler system. so I'm not completely ignorant; just mostly so. He rented a riding ditch witch and I think we only put the system about 6" deep; don't remember the brand of equipment we used, but we did use the automatic drains. Another neighbor installed his own system about 30 years ago, only put it about 3" deep, and without the automatic drains. I think it was about 2 years before we had a freeze that shattered all the lines.

 

[Skipholiday]

From what I can tell. It would take at least 6 zones.
1. Front yard turf 4 turf heads
2. Back yard turf 1/2 4 turf heads
3. Back yard turf 1/2 4 turf heads
4. Front side yard spray heads. 8 spray heads
5. Back side yard spray heads. 6 spray heads
If you water behind the little shed in the very back it will need to be combined
with one of the side yard spray zones or put on a zone by its self.
(never put spray heads and turf heads on the same zone running together)

A good guesstimate (if parts are close to same price) would be around $600.
I would get the next larger control box for future expansion. (8 zone controller). Difference in cost would be $20 to $30 bucks where as a new 8 zone controller would cost around $120.

I would also try and get a name brand controller. The cheaper units do work but usually aren't very user friendly and in my experience the contact switches wear out prematurely.

Personally I prefer nelson products. A good substitute is rainbird. Toro also makes a good product.

Hope this helps.
If you need a plan drawn up lmk and I can get it for you in a few days.

 

[Bird]

Thanks, Skip. I didn't know anything about the different brands of sprinkler heads, but I do use some Nelson quick couplers on my hoses. Right now, I water behind and at the side of that little garden tool shed by hand with a high volume, low pressure wand, so yes, I would want that watered, too. And I'll have to look at some of the stuff, since I really don't know the difference between turf heads and spray heads.

 

[Skipholiday]

The turf heads rotate and the spray heads don't.
Spray heads are for small areas, turf heads are for larger areas.
Usually I use turf heads in areas with 25 feet of open area or more.

Check out this site.

Remember the longevity of your system depends on the depth of your pipe more than anything else.
If the heads go bad, they can be easily replaced. It is very difficult and a huge problem to go back and make your trench's deeper.

Another tip is to use all one inch pipe. Some will use smaller pipe on the end of the lines.
I don't like doing this because it limits your expandability and makes it harder if you have to fix a bust.

 

[Bird]

Thanks, Skip. That link looks like something I'll be using.