lawn tractors

[Gittyup]

I would look for a used JD 425 or similar (445, 455, 400, 420, 318) before plunking down $3K on a cheap mower. This breed is shaft driven (meaning no belt issues) and is way better made than the cheapies. They are very quiet, sip fuel, and are easy to operate. You can find 425's for right around $3000.

 

[walaa]

well, just around the corner from me I found a neighbor that works on all kind of stuff, and I got a JD sabre, 15 Hp, I know it is belt driven but still... 500 bucks, looks great seemed to run okay around my yard, and cut alot lower than a tractor and finish mower He also lives right here, and gave his name , # and said he will fix anything if it ever doesnt do me right, so I think I got a pretty good deal compared to what I was looking at Thanks I love this forum!!

 

[rdbrumfield]

I just bought an Ariens 20hp 46inch cut for 1499. It has hydrostat drive and can really cut some tall grass. I am really impressed with it.

Like some have said above, Just look under the hood, engines are mostly the same, tin on the outside except for the hood are the same, just color is about the only difference.

I looked around the web and the same rig was around 2g. Personally, I would get one in the price range I have, wear it out and get another. Be farther ahead than getting one at twice the price. Mower decks usually are the parts that wear out first. Just be sure to maintain the engine.

The hydrostat drive is filled and sealed at the factory, it never needs servicing.

 

[3RRL]

This is a timely thread for us.
Not to hijack the thread, but we are also considering a lawn tractor/mower.
We have less than an acre of real lawn. (I do the rest with the rotary cutter). What about steep hillsides? Can those lawn tractors handle some of that? Besides hydrostatic drive, What else should we look for? what are the key things if you could list them?
Thanks, Rob-

 

[mwb]

The main thing that I would look for (in addition to hydro) is a floating deck with anti-scalp wheels / rollers. This is not usually found on the cheap machines.

I bought a cheap MTD 42" eight years ago and I cut over three acres; it is still running strong - the finish is not perfect because of the fixed deck (non-floating) but one day after cutting and the lawn looks good. I am almost done rebuilding an old National Mower reel mower with an 84" cut then my lawn will look good

 

[doxford jim]

This is a timely thread for us.
Not to hijack the thread, but we are also considering a lawn tractor/mower.
We have less than an acre of real lawn. (I do the rest with the rotary cutter). What about steep hillsides? Can those lawn tractors handle some of that? Besides hydrostatic drive, What else should we look for? what are the key things if you could list them?
Thanks, Rob-

Hi Rob,

Can't answer on the finer points of the rider mowers. i have a 14 year old Sears 42" cut rider mpower. i don't know if these are any better than other makes, but the parts aren't too bad. I have recently rebuilt the mower deck on mine (was orignal) and it works just fine. The only thing that will need attention soon is the steering - the worn part is about $110 to replace. There are some places where parts are about 1/3 of dealers price - like anything else, you have to look around.

I have a good two acres or more to cut and some of it is a bit hilly. It is fine going straight up and down, but going crossways is asking for trouble. Yes, these rider mowers are a bit tippy and it pays to be careful. And of course, if you go the rider mower route, you won't have a roll bar as you have on a small tractor. Maybe another small tractor with a belly mower would also do you Then augment your "stable or fleet" with a push type mower for the tight spots

Cheers

J.

 

[Gittyup]

My 425 with AWS is virtually impossible to tip over. You'll fall off before it'll think about coming off the ground. Traction is excellent on slopes, up/down or sideways. The AWS allows the drive wheels to push in-line with the front wheels, which really helps when turning on slopes. Unlike convention steering, the drive force is always applied 100% in the same direction as steering. I mow some spots where I have to sit up on the edge of the seat just to keep from falling off. Tractor never even hints at tipping. But, then these tractors are almost as wide as they are long (maybe wider with the mower deck).

Heres a picture of a 455 from the rear so you can see how wide they are (most have turf tires). http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3671

 

[vaskeet]

Husqvarna and craftsman are made by the same company. I have a 2005 sears gt5000 garden tractor 27hp 54inch deck cost 2700 and i so wish I had gotten a zero turn instead. If you realy want a gt then i would recomend a 48inch deck as if I want to put my mower in the truck to take it somewhere I have to pull off the deck. I cut most of my grass with my 72 inch finishing mower behind my kubota l2250 Randy

 

[greenmule]

Well it takes about 5 min to take deck off,so wouldn't let that make up my mind as to deck size,guess if you moved it every week or something in back of truck.

Yeah,huskys make sears,cub cadets are now made by same people who makes those real good new troy bilts= junk.

Those 100 series deere they sell at box stores are no better[maybe worse] than all of the above.

So,if you want a good one,be ready to spend 5-7 thousand dollars.

If you want a not so good one[cheap],than go buy the cheapest one you can find in the deck size you need.Cause they are all about the same.

If you want middle of the road,money for your buck[well,],I bought a 200 series snapper 50 inch cut about 3 grand,simplicity makes good ones too.

If you got hills,you probably want a gear lawnmower.