LB1914 - turning up the pressure

[gladehound]

Hi all. I must say I'm extremely pleased with my 2004 lb1914 that I've had about a year. Bought it used with 200 hours and am about at 300 now with no problems. However, I'd like more hydraulic pressure.

How can I turn the loader and system pressure from 1900 and 2050 psi respectivly up to ~2500 psi? Will a shop do this for me?

Can the lb1914 hydraulic system handle 2500psi?

Most new CUTs have higher system pressures than the LB1914. Are they designed to handle more pressure or is the safety margin just less than on the older machines?

I'm asking because lately I've been thinking some of my jobs would be easier with a bigger tractor. But as my cousin tells me "it doesn't matter how big your machine is, you'll always be able to find a job that makes you want something bigger". Keep in mind he has a pond digging business with track loader, backhoe etc.

I think he's right. Also, I think you also give up some things wtih a larger machine like manuverability, ability to get into small spaces etc. I like the 48inch width of my tractor. It comes in handy.

So..... I think my best option is to maximize the capabilities of the LB1914. I would like it to be able to dig better. Obviously a tooth bar will help with this so I plan to get one. But I also want more hydaulic lift. It doesn't need a lot more, but 25% more would be usable with the weight of this tractor.

 

[JoelD]

I am thinking the systems are designed to run the pressure they run, more pressure, more strain on pump, valves, piston packings, etc. I am thinking you up from stock pressure you up the failure rate.

 

[BTI]

Have you checked the pressure?
It may be running too below spec.

BTI

 

[DeNiro]

I think you will find that the factory has set the pressure a little lower in the loader than the at pump. I believe you will be safe turning up the pressure at the loader because the pump has a relief valve that will protect it.
A dealer told me that it is usual for the factory to set relief valve so that the pressure is relieved at the loader control. Turning it up is simple. There is a little cap with two screws on the control valve. Remove it and you can see the relieve valve screw.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Ron, where are you at in Pa. Maybe I can help you. Andy.

 

[gladehound]

Thanks for the offer. South eastern PA. Montgomery County. Perkiomenville township.

 

[cgraham]

I have read that the FEL on the LB10914 is a little anemic.

The KL1210 which is specified for the 1914 is listed a breakout force at pivot pin = 1,692lb and lift capacity as 850lb with a 4' bucket.

Based on my experience, whatever these numbers mean, the FEL is indeed anemic. If I plow into a not very deep pile of dirt and fill the bucket, the moaning and groaning tells me I have to back off a little to be able to lift the load. In fact, with dry, loose material, it is lack of break-out force rather than lift which is the problem. Once free of the pile, lift is no problem.

Any material that is not loose has to be broken up with the backhoe first.

The relief valve setting is given as 1,900 psi.

I thought the moaning and groaning is the relief valves, in which case it is no use turning up the hydraulic pressure, is it?

Where is the control valve? It is not shown in my FEL manual. I'd like more info on how to adjust it for greater power. How much more is it realistic to hope for.

Charlie

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Thanks for the offer. South eastern PA. Montgomery County. Perkiomenville township.

You are a little far away. Pa is a big state, for the east coast anyway.
You could buy a nice little pressure gauge kit for under a hundred and do it yourself.

 

[gladehound]

Charlie,

if the loader relief is set at 1900 and the main relief is set at 2200 you would gain ~15% in total lift or break out or whatever you want to call it. They both go up 15%. It will actually be more like 17-18% more break out and lift because loader arm and bucket weight are a constant. I can explain more if you want but it isn't that important.

If your system is set at 2300 psi (which I think is about the max for this tractor because I think the pump max is 2350 psi based on my manual) then you would get 23-24% more breakout and lift.

So just by adjusting a screw on the loader, your breakout could go over 2000 pounds at the pivot pin and 1000 pounds for a full lift.

One thing that hurts the KL1210 is it's nice deep bucket. I love a deep bucket but it hurts your roll back and lift at the bucket tip. You will notice that many similar size tractors have much more shallow buckets which makes the hydraulics seem stronger.

For example. If you had 1600 lbs break out on a 5 foot boom and you add and 18 inch long bucket you now have 1230 pounds at the bucket tip. But if you add a 30 inch deep bucket you have 1066 pounds at teh bucket tip.

One thing I have been thinking about doing but probably wont is to put 2 inch lift cyclinders in plact of the 1.75 inch stock ones. This simple change give you 30% more breakout / lift (plus a little more because of the constant weight of the bucket & loader arms) But it makes the loader lift ~24% slower. Combine a 300 psi pressure increase with the 2 inch cylinders and you are looking at 50% more break out / lift. Of course we are talking about potentially breaking something here. But from operating many small tractors with loaders, the KL1210 / LB1914 seem to have more safety margin for handling increased lift than many others I have used.

 

[cgraham]

That's pretty interesting, gladehound.

I need to know exactly where these two adjustments are, and which is which if I am to be able to alter them. Can the adjustments be made without plumbing in a guage?

Thanks,

Charlie