3-Point Hitch Leaking on top of Remote Hydraulics Block

[StevenChalmers]

I bought a used DK40 a year ago and shortly thereafter installed the hydraulic blocks for remote hydraulics. It is a factory part and everything installed perfectly.

Unfortunately that top of that block is now leaking. The block I installed is a pair of valves with rigid lines to the back of the tractor. I noticed hydraulic fluid under the tractor and traced the leak to these blocks. The moment I start the tractor the leaking begins. The leaking is clearly coming from the 2 discs, one on each block, between the pairs of rigid pipe connections on each block.

I don't know when the leaking started but my guess is that it happened the most recent time I made use of the remote hydraulics with my 3 pt hitch backhoe.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.


Steven

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Is everything tight? This stuff can work loose.

 

[VictorW]

Where those four steel line ends connect to the valves, the verticle pipe ends have the banjo bolts running through. The only seal is a rubber o-ring on the bottom and top of those pipe ends. Hopefully one of those is leaking and it just looks like it is coming from the plugs, which is an easy fix or it's just lose as mentioned. Those two disks you mention, look like plugs that cap/plug off a machined hole that was needed for manufacturing. The two scribe or dented in marks appear to be made after the plugs were pushed into place and these keep the plugs from coming out. There would be some kind of seal or o-ring on those plugs. The only way to tell would be to file away those dented areas and remove the plugs then figure out what let go.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I bought a used DK40 a year ago and shortly thereafter installed the hydraulic blocks for remote hydraulics. It is a factory part and everything installed perfectly.

Unfortunately that top of that block is now leaking. The block I installed is a pair of valves with rigid lines to the back of the tractor. I noticed hydraulic fluid under the tractor and traced the leak to these blocks. The moment I start the tractor the leaking begins. The leaking is clearly coming from the 2 discs, one on each block, between the pairs of rigid pipe connections on each block.

I don't know when the leaking started but my guess is that it happened the most recent time I made use of the remote hydraulics with my 3 pt hitch backhoe.

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.


Steven


View attachment 384155View attachment 384156

Wow, the DKs are way different than the NXs. Anyway, looks like an o-ring failed. Order two and throw leaking o-ring as well as the o-ring shouldered against the banjo bolt away when you sort out the problem.

 

[StevenChalmers]

MtnViewRanch, That was my first thought too, but unfortunately that didn't solve the problem.

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VictorW, Unfortunately I am 99% sure that the leaking is coming from the plugs for machined holes. I very carefully cleaned the whole area and then watched it very closely as I started the tractor ( I had the clutch pushed in with a board and was standing beside the tractor when I started it. The FEL was down as was the box scraper and with the clutch pedal depressed I felt safe enough ). The moment the tractor starts the hydraulic fluid clearly is coming from those two plugs.

I pulled the valves off yesterday and replaced the original cap since I didn't want to be leaking fluid the whole time I used the tractor yesterday. After removing the valves and looking closely at the plugs I agree that the plugs cover access holes for machining.

Interestingly I noticed that the plugs on both valves were raised slightly. I very optimistically tapped them down flush and reinstalled them. 45 minutes later ( yes, a tedious install ) they immediately leaked again when I started the tractor, and, were slightly raised again.

I like your thought about the scribes/dents being used to hold those plugs in. I will try to make new dents to convince those plugs to stay put!

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EricThe Oracle: When I pulled the valves out I was really hoping that it was going to be as simple as a bad o-ring but that was not the case. All 8 ( top and btm ) looked fine. Dang.

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I'll update this post when I reinstall the valves. Thanks all for your thoughts and input.


Steven

 

[MinnesotaEric]

MtnViewRanch, That was my first thought too, but unfortunately that didn't solve the problem.

------------

VictorW, Unfortunately I am 99% sure that the leaking is coming from the plugs for machined holes. I very carefully cleaned the whole area and then watched it very closely as I started the tractor ( I had the clutch pushed in with a board and was standing beside the tractor when I started it. The FEL was down as was the box scraper and with the clutch pedal depressed I felt safe enough ). The moment the tractor starts the hydraulic fluid clearly is coming from those two plugs.

I pulled the valves off yesterday and replaced the original cap since I didn't want to be leaking fluid the whole time I used the tractor yesterday. After removing the valves and looking closely at the plugs I agree that the plugs cover access holes for machining.

Interestingly I noticed that the plugs on both valves were raised slightly. I very optimistically tapped them down flush and reinstalled them. 45 minutes later ( yes, a tedious install ) they immediately leaked again when I started the tractor, and, were slightly raised again.

I like your thought about the scribes/dents being used to hold those plugs in. I will try to make new dents to convince those plugs to stay put!

------------

EricThe Oracle: When I pulled the valves out I was really hoping that it was going to be as simple as a bad o-ring but that was not the case. All 8 ( top and btm ) looked fine. Dang.

------------

I'll update this post when I reinstall the valves. Thanks all for your thoughts and input.


Steven

Because the o-rings look okay doesn't mean the o-rings are okay. These lines are under pressure. Order new o-rings and replace them.

 

[StevenChalmers]

I believe I have solved the problem. I popped the suspect plug out of the body of the valve and found it held a spring and a small tapered head thingy. The good news is that the plug has an o-ring, and that o-ring was indeed damaged for both valves.



The whole assembly is just held by the friction of the o-ring. Once the steel lines are bolted in place they hold the assembly from coming out under pressure.

The tapered head thingy reaches all the way down to the spool valve and must act like a detent, offering some indication that you have moved the valve to the correct position.

When I replace the o-rings I'll add another post here to share the success or failure.


Steven

 

[SSdoxie]

That 'thingy" is the load check. When going back together, make sure the horizontal hole in the plug lines up with the horizontal holes in the valve casting. That is what those chisel marks are, alignment marks.

 

[VictorW]

I agree that they are load checks. Very similar to what is in the bh valves but held in place differently. Now those chisel marks make sense too. Thanks for posting your findings. If I ever have the same problem, I'll know what I have to do.

 

[StevenChalmers]

I finally got the replacement o-rings and got the time to reassemble everything and it all worked! No leaks. Unfortunately I had to reuse the old banjo bolt o-rings because the replacement ones were the wrong size but they held just fine.


Steven