Leaking water pump on Jinma 204

[Catch95]

Has anyone had problems with leaks around the water pump. I tightened all the bolts but I still have a leak.

Anything I should know before I get the tool kit out and replace the gasket?

My engine is running hot in about + 90 degree heat, so I've been following the discussions re thermostats with interest.

Will play with that at the same time.

Thanks

Mark

 

[greg_g]

Two probably reasons for your hot weather problem, pressure leak(s) and a dirty radiator. I'd remove the radiator and pump, and rectify both problems at the same time. Water pump gaskets are easy to cut by hand from bulk material. The radiator fins are delicate, I clean mine with compressed air. Power washers could likely cost you a new radiator. Once reassembled, flush the cooling system and refill with at least a 50/50 anti-freeze mixture. I also recommend a radiator cap upgrade. 7 psi if you can find one.

//greg//

 

[Catch95]

Greg,

Thanks for the info. As a non mechanical kind of person - can you explain the difference between radiator caps?

I replaced the original one on the Jinma which fell apart but I have a feeling I put on a 15psi cap. I'm not at my farm at present so I can't check.

Thanks

Mark

 

[MrFixit]

Hi Mark,

I'm new to tractors. But I have had many water pump failures in my old junker cars. Many times the water pump would start seeping water out the weep hole (Small hole in casting) to indicate seal is on it's way out. Sometimes a worn bearing will allow end play in the shaft causing seal to leak. In any case your tractor 'may" have a weep hole in the casting. You might want to take a peek and see if there is one and if there's any evidence of moisture trails. If so replacing gasket alone may not stop the leaks.


Tim

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Hi mark, If possible I would try an actually see where the leak is coming from...... may have to use a flash light and mirror.

Make sure fan belt is tight, fan blades in good shape, coolant flow inside radiator, .....

How long does it have to run to leak or to start over heating?

Stoping the leak would be the first step.... system has to be capable of working.

Keep us updated

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[Egon]

The higher pressure rad cap raises the coolant boiling point.

Have you tried any of the sealant additives?

Egon

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As a non mechanical kind of person - can you explain the difference between radiator caps?)</font>

Probably not real well, but I do remember the caps on my Jinmas had a pretty low pressure rating. It was a metric rating, so the closest I could find here in America was a 7 PSI cap. The KAMA cap wasn't marked. But from the feel of it, I doubt it was more than 4 psi. The lower the PSI, the quicker the cap will open to vent excess pressure - and the sooner you will know that there's a potential problem. The higher the PSI, the greater the possibility that the pressure will find or create leaks. A cap with too great a pressure rating can also inflict engine damage if it prevents overheated and expanding coolant from venting on time.

Plus, there's no coolant recovery system on these tractors. So once the cap vents overheated coolant, it's gone for good. If you forget to top it back up......

I personally don't use cooling system sealant additives. I feel it's a shotgun approach, especially from those that coat the entire inside of the cooling system during their quest for a pressure leak. This type of additive then actually reduces the cooling capability of the radiator, by decreasing the inside diameter of the cooling tubes.

//greg//

 

[JohnS]

I think Greg is correct. Your radiator is partially plugged, which leads to higher temps and higher pressure (with your replaced cap), possibly contributing to your water pump leak.

If your pump is leaking at the weep hole or impeller/shaft/bearing, then the initial contributer could have been the over pressure/high heat. I stress "could" because not sure if that differance in pressure would be enough to push it past the seal. Since water/coolant has already passed through it, you should probably replace the pump along with going to the lower pressure radiator cap. You can get parts to fix the pump, but they are harder to find, (not sure about Aus though!) and may not be worth the extra time vs the cost savings, plus I believe you indicated that mechanical stuff was not your first language. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

If it is leaking at the mating surfaces at the block, unlikely the additional pressure would cause those gaskets to fail. There might have been an initial defect in the casting surface, that the extra pressure became the straw on the preverbal camel. Or possibly just a bad gasket or damaged one. You will need to pull the pump, inspect gasket, and clean all the gasket away and closely inspect the surfaces. If there is a bad surface on the pump, easy just replace. Bad surface on block, the "fun" will be determined by how bad it is. Both surfaces look good than just a new gasket with a light coating of RTV.

 

[Catch95]

Many thanks for all the advice from everyone.

I am suspicious that I may have put too higher a PSI radiator cap on because I didn't have a leak prior to that. The tractor has 500+ hours on it and the original one just fell apart.

We are also having a very hot summer- hottest January on record for Sydney which peaked at 113 degrees on your scale the other day. Not nice.

I'm back at my farm next week and will replace the gasket, check the pump and surfaces, clean and flush the radiator, and try a lower PSI radiator cap and let you know.

Thanks again

Mark