Level on the cheap

[tinsnip]

Greetings gents. I've been having a great time with my new tractor, tons of brush hogging and stump pulling. Now the wife wants a cut flower bed which is essentially a 25' by 30' area that will contain a pattern of raised beds. The spot she picked was on a section that contained a slope of about 5 degrees from top to bottom and an opposing slope of about 3-5 degrees left to right. (hope that makes sense).

I convinced her we'd all be happier installing the raised beds if the ground was level before hand. Me and my big mouth. So far, I've been eyeballing it and removing the high parts with the FEL and backblade. But before we actually start constructing the raised beds, I would like to check the thing for accuracy. I'm not about to spend a lot of money on gadgets but would like to feel confident the thing is level within reason.

I do have a decent laser level used for indoor carpentry. It's the type that pivots on a hanger. Any chance that would give me a useable reading? I have read here about other methods, but can't seem to find the posts with the search function. Sorry if this is an old and tired topic.

 

[Timber]

I use a cheap laser on a tripod to level my fence out side. I think I paid 25 bucks for it at home-depot with tripod and carrying case. I set it up on a trash barrel to get the height I wanted and put a dot on each pole. You have to do it in low light though. Or you can just use a line level and chalk line

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

You could try this but a little extreme for your project. Its the most accurate way to set level.

Making a water level

 

[EddieWalker]

Does your lazer level send a beam out that you can see or mark from?

Pound some stakes into the ground that are higher than your lazer. Do this at the corners, and maybe at the half way points. That would be 8 tall wooden stakes, but pipe, or anything would do.

Make sure the lazer is at a set height. It doesn't matter what the height is, just as long as it wont change until your done measureing. Put some bricks, blocks or a stool. An upside down bucket would work or even a tool box, it doesn't really matter what you use, just as long at it stays at the same height.

Point you lazer at one of the stakes and make sure it's level. Mark the stake. Then point it at each of the stakes and mark them one at a time until you get back to the first one. Do that one again to make sure your still level. If so, that means you got them all true and plumb.

Now you have a refrence point to measure from. Measure down from each stake to the ground to determine where you need to remove or add fill.

The middle will be a little tricky, but for what your doing, you should be able to eyeball it pretty close. If not, you can bring out the lazer again, or pull a string real tight from the corners, or just put a regular carpenters level on the dirt to see what's going on.

Speaking of carpenters levels. You can do it with just the level and a long straight board. Start at your highest point and put one end of the board there. Put the level on the board and rais the other end until the level is plumb. Put a pile of dirt under the board until it stays level. Do this from point to point and you'll end up with a bunch of piles of dirt that are level. Then you just fill in the area up to that level.

I've done this for sheds and small pads. It's quick, easy and fairly accurate. But as you work the dirt, it will compact, so you have to keep on measureing to see how your progressing.

When building up dirt, dump the bucket and backdrag it to spread it out and make it smooth. Do this over and over again until you get there.

Have fun,
Eddie

 

[tinsnip]

Exactly the kind of suggestions I was looking for. I've just been out scratching away at it and feel pretty good with it to this point. I know I have a high spot in the center, and a low spot along the edge that runs into the down slope. A combination of all of these suggestions will probably end up getting used. The laser is going to have to wait until evening though, since its a bright day.

Thanks!

 

[Birdhunter1]

Drive a piece of rebar in the center but leave it up approx. 13".

Take a 14' 2x4 (straight one) and tape a level to it on a 2" side in the middle, on the opposing 2" side drill a 1" deep hole just big enough diameter to fit over the rebar. If you have some old chain laying around attach them with screws to your 2x4 so they will drag on high spots. Use this to gauge your high spots and use a rake (by hand to smooth them off.

A few weeks ago I layed the gravel in a 31' diameter circle for a grain bin floor, also used the same set up to strike off the concrete.

Total cost in this method is cheap. Also most laser levels for indoor carpntry if you look they usually say "+/- 1/2" at 30'."

 

[CurlyDave]

Somewhere in my garage I have two clear plastic tubes with the fittings to attach to a garden hose. These make up a dandy water level. They were about $6 many years ago.

A water level is more accurate than the most expensive laser level in the world--just much slower to use.

 

[barticus73]

WatrLevel - Home Page

They sell them on Ebay for 5 bucks cheaper than their site. You can watch videos on their site for their usages too. It just a basic water level with some nice features making it easier to use.