Leveling Gravel for Pole Barn

[Code54]

I am installing a new 30x40 pole barn and I just had the land cleared and basically leveled. It is my understanding that I need 4" of gravel (have VERY heavy thick clay as dirt) to place my pad on. What is the best way to get/keep the gravel level? I don't own a laser level just a nice 6' carpenters level. Can I get a straight (ok mostly straight) 2x4 and slide it along and level off that? Is there a better way?
THANKS

 

[Nissan197]

I used a line level, however I was still a little off when the barn went up. Luckily, it was big enough to get it level with a skid loader.

 

[KennyG]

Over the years I've done a few of these. If you can't borrow a laser level somewhere (consider renting also), I would suggest you make/borrow/buy a water level. This is nothing more than clear tubing and a reservoir. Use this to set the corners (and some intermediate points if you want) exactly level. Then use your six foot level to set pipes or conduits at nominal 6 foot intervals and fill between to level using a screed board.

Since you are pouring a slab, you don't have to be that level with the fill. What you need to be exact on is the forms.

 

[schlen]

If this is a base for concrete:

We run strings lengthwise every 10 ft, then use a 10ft 2x4 on edge and screed til you just clear the line. This is hard on the back. Have a helper rake the high spots and fill the low. We use limestone screenings cause they pack well, are cheap and easy to work with. Gravel would be tough this way unless it is small pebbles. If it's done well makes estimating concrete easier.

 

[schlen]

We set the poles then use a transit (scope) to put a mark each pole, a "benchmark", that gives a level reference point on each pole.

 

[LD1]

If this is a base for a concrete pad, this is what I do

Drive stakes (we call them grade stakes) in the ground every 6'. using a transit/sight-level to make sure they are level or the grade we want.

Then when concrete is poured, we use a 2x4 8' long the screed it. Which is long enough to span the distance between the grade stakes.

If it is NOT for a concrete pad, then obviously you dont want metal stakes where you will be driving. But a transit is still handy. Get it to what you think is level. take some measurments and make some mental notes of high and low spots, and then hop back on the tractor.

 

[Code54]

Thanks for all the ideas - now to implement them.

 

[gerard]

As someone pointed out, it's more important that the forms are perfect. If the land is close to level, consider putting in the forms first but leave one short side open. Now you can dump the base at the end and use your tractor and blade to get some stone down. Using some string from one side to the next on the short sides will give you a good idea of your low and high spots, adjust accordingly. It doesn't have to be perfect but should be compacted, perferably do a 2-3 inch base, compact, then add the final material to get to a final 4inch base. The better you compact the base, the better luck you will have with settling and cracking later.

(Also if you haven't poured concrete before, I would place a layer of polyethylene down before they place the concrete. It's cheap, easy to lay down, and keeps the moisture in the mix longer. Without it, the base material leaches the water out, curing it quicker. The slower/longer the cure, the harder the concrete. Concrete actually cures best totally submersed but that isn't always practical).