Rotary Cutter Leveling/height setting for BH

[Learning to Farm]

Happy Friday! Can't wait to start my long weekend of field maintenance (no sarcasm,promise). So I am posting all the questions I thought of sitting at the desk this week. My first one may seem naive: I use the BH to "mow" fields. I spoke with the one of the extension agents and he said he uses a 4 foot level to make sure his BH is level. Also, I was told not to mow lower than 4 inches, but if I raise the BH the rear wheel dangles, I get reprimanded for that even when it's because I am driving in little dips in our fields. He said something about cranking something down, I have no cranks that I know of.

I have a old Woods BH, it has one wheel. It is on a 3ph.

So:
1. Websites or play by play on how to level?
2. Where is this crank?
3.How do I adjust the height (related to 1 maybe)?

I hate to think I am not using my favorite attachment right!

Thanks!

 

[Wolfy]

Your photo tells me you should lengthen the top link on your 3 point hitch. You also have an adjustment built into the mower ( above the gearbox ). I see its set to the 3rd hole back. Maybe try the 4th hole back.

 

[greg_g]

Photos not very clear, but it appears that mower isn't equipped with a floating toplink bracket. They are attached to the point where your toplink is currently pinned. When installed, you pin your toplink to the floating bracket rather than to the A-frame. The pivoting action of the bracket is what keeps the tail wheel on the ground while mowing

//greg//

 

[TripleR]

There are a lot of useful threads on this, here are just a few, good luck.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/145455-adjusting-brush-hog.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/130308-brush-hog-question-lean-backwards.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/206744-how-do-i-use-my.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/126384-adjusting-brushhog.html

 

[Leejohn]

See if you can see this a little better. I used a chain for the top link on my BH, that worked the best for me. By me it looks like there is some adjustment for the rear wheel at the gear box. Lee

 

[TripleR]

Happy Friday! Can't wait to start my long weekend of field maintenance (no sarcasm,promise). So I am posting all the questions I thought of sitting at the desk this week. My first one may seem naive: I use the BH to "mow" fields. I spoke with the one of the extension agents and he said he uses a 4 foot level to make sure his BH is level. Also, I was told not to mow lower than 4 inches, but if I raise the BH the rear wheel dangles, I get reprimanded for that even when it's because I am driving in little dips in our fields. He said something about cranking something down, I have no cranks that I know of.

I have a old Woods BH, it has one wheel. It is on a 3ph.

So:
1. Websites or play by play on how to level?
2. Where is this crank?
3.How do I adjust the height (related to 1 maybe)?

I hate to think I am not using my favorite attachment right!

Thanks!

The crank will be on the right 3PH lift arm. It will either be a "crank" or a collar that can be rotated to lengthen or shorten thus leveling your bush hog.

I can't see any "floating top-link" as mentioned, so it either did not come with one or is missing. Some people replace the top brace from the top-link point of attachment to the deck with a chain to allow the deck to float over uneven terrain. If you are concerned with it flipping forward, you could run the chain through a pipe, we used this method when pulling tractors etc to keep the towed machine from running into the pulling one. A better option would probably be to fab a floating top-link bracket. I can't tell much else from the picture, sorry.

 

[RoyJackson]

Best bet is to read the threads TripleR linked to...

Based upon the text of your post, leveling would refer to side to side. You use your right side draft (lower) link adjustment (threaded rod or link from the draft link to the lifting link (the part that actually rotates to lift the 3PH).
Get behind your Kubota and see how the deck of the cutter compares to a level part or the tractor (I use the top of the ROPS). You can use a bubble level if your tractor is on a level area...otherwise, the bubble level will throw you off.
Basically, you want the cutter deck parallel with the top of the tractor's ROPS.

The "crank" you're refering to was probably used in the extention agent's conversation as a verb, not a noun. He suggested you adjust something. There's only two things you can adjust (on the tractor): the top link of the 3PH and the adjustable link I described in the previous paragraph (side to side leveling).

After you have leveled side to side (don't go **** on this...doesn't have to be perfect), you'll want to set height. This is done by using your rockshaft lever to set the height of the draft (lower) links. Deere's use an adjustable stop on the rockshaft lever slot...very simple. You'll want the front of the cutter a few inches off the ground.

My cutter (old Land Pride) uses the tail wheel for setting the height (tail wheel bracket will raise and lower). I can't see what your cutter uses...but that might just be due to the bluriness of the picture.

As greg_g wrote, there should be a floating bracket at the upper connection (tractor's top link). Doesn't appear to be one though.

So, before you start mowing, look for the adjustments everyone has listed. Once you've found them and ensure you can adjust (your cutter looks a bit rusty...might have to loosen some adjustments up a bit) your cutter.

Another thing you can do is go to the Woods Equipment website and look at a manual for a current production cutter for how to set your cutter up. It may not be exactly the same, but should be similar enough to familarize you with what is necessary to do before you start mowing.

BTW, few things to do when you're ready to start:
1) Engage your tractor's PTO at a lower RPM. This reduces the shock on the PTO. If the engine starts to stall, give it a bit more throttle.
(You'll experience some vibration initially and may hear a "bang" as the cutter's blades pivot out)
2) Watch your tractor's temperature gage. Brush cutting is dirty and dusty. Your radiator grills can get clogged with debris (reducing the airflow to the radiator). Carry a small stiff bristled brush to clean them out.
3) If you're mowing in an unfamilar area, go slow. If the brush is tall or thick, there may be all kinds of garbage under the brush. This can damage your tractor, cutter...or you!

 

[RoyJackson]

...you could run the chain through a pipe, we used this method when pulling tractors etc to keep the towed machine from running into the pulling one...

Now that is a darn good idea!!!!!
Are you sure you don't have an Engineering degree?

 

[TripleR]

Now that is a darn good idea!!!!!
Are you sure you don't have an Engineering degree?

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

Basically, you want the cutter deck parallel with the top of the tractor's ROPS.

Of course. It's obvious now. I've been trying to figure out how to level my rotary cutter, given that I don't own any horizontal land. I ought to look up more often. Tx!