A basic adjustment method that hasn't been listed here: 1) Start with the blade just off the ground, side stabilizers set to center it. 2) Set your lift arms (level, ideally) so the pivot pin for your blade is perpendicular when viewed from behind the tractor 3) Adjust the top link so the pivot pin is perpendicular when viewed from the side.
If these steps are done right and your blade is straight, you should be able to turn the blade to any angle on a flat surface and have about the same clearance at all times in all parts of the blade. If you have it tilted toward the tractor in step 3, the leading edge will run lower than the trailing edge when you angle it, which you may want to do to move material to crown a drive or something.
Those of you with the fancier blades that have tilt and tip adjustments on the blade itself need to center the thing before you start, of course. For the rest of us po' folks, that isn't something we need to worry about.