Leveling Wash-Board type ground

DGB · Jun 29, 2004

I have about 1/2A of ground that for lack of a better term is like a wash-board from water run off. The area is not very steep and the ruts not too deep, but they can beat you up when trying to cut. I would like to level out and re-seed to get better quality yard in this area. Not good enough with FEL yet to do anything decent. I am thinking to purchase a rear blade or box blade. Would it be better to work accross the ruts or up and down? Other option would be to rent a rear tiller and just smooth out with landscape rake. Any ideas and/or input would be appreciated.

DGB

Skitch · Jun 29, 2004

I had a similar problem this spring during construction on our house. I elected to use a box blade and found that going with the ruts gave the best results. The box cut the top off the high areas and dropped it into the ruts as it went along. All told, it did a bang up job and didn't take long at all.

Skitch · Jun 29, 2004

Forgot to mention it, but since you don't have a BB, go ahead and get one. Most valuable and versatile tool you will own, even if you don't use it for this project.

Henro · Jun 29, 2004

<font color="blue"> Forgot to mention it, but since you don't have a BB, go ahead and get one. </font>

Good advice!

And it does not have to be an expensive one to give great results. I have a KingKutter 60" that I paid under $300 for and I just love it.

Not as heavy as some, but a few concrete blocks on it solves that problem.

A great implement. Ranks right up there with the tooth bar for the loader bucket... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

jinman · Jun 29, 2004

Skitch's method will work if your soil is soft enough. If it's hard, you can go backwards across the ruts with the boxblade and smooth out a lot quicker than going forward. When you go forward, you wheels hit the ruts and bounce the blade. If you go in reverse, the blade cuts the rough ground before your wheels get to it. It takes a little practice, but I do a lot of cutting/grading in reverse with my boxblade.

I'd give Skitch's method a try first and save the reverse method for the tough spots. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

chrisjbell · Jun 30, 2004

The BB is probably your best bet, since to rent a tiller will cost you a good fraction of the cost of a BB and then you'll have the implement /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

I used a tiller (rented) on my yard, and it did an excellent job, but then I wound up borrowing a BB to finish level it. You might not need to do that, but if you don't you want to make sure you get something growing in it before erosion puts you back to square one.

Egon · Jun 30, 2004

Have you thought of contouring the upper part of the area to conrol or direct water runoff to a specific area?

Will you be reseeding the entire area or just the washboard area as this may make a change in the choice of impliments used.

Egon

DGB · Jun 30, 2004

Good advice. Think I will go for the BB. Sounds like a good thing to have anyway. Once done I will plant a mix of annual rye for a quick growth and fescues for the long run. Hopefully water runoff will be less then before as the area above now has a well established lawn.

Thanks,

DGB

Gary_in_Indiana · Jun 30, 2004

DGB,

You'll love having a box blade. I have that on my tractor more than about anything besides my mower in the summer and about all the time during winter for ballast. It's heavy and still compact enough to reduce the dragon tail effect when I turn.

I have a 5' model made by Midwest. The quality of the welds along with the fit and finish quality are all excellent. They're about the same money as a King Kutter but if you put them side by side the choice is obvious.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif