Lift jumps going up
- Thread starter Ed383
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Eagleview
Veteran Member
Oil level could be low .
Kubota part installed by mistake ?
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Seriously, is this only when cold ?
Any chance there is air (or water) in the system ?
SOMEWHERE (don't remember) I read that dropping the 3ph or dumping the loader at very low engine revs can (somehow) let air into the system (some system or one particular system, I don't remember).
It might be worth taking the revs up to around 2,000 and "exercising" the loader lift/lower curl/dump a few times, then the 3ph a few times, then the loader a few more.
"Might be...", or could be a total waste of time and fuel.
Then there's the whole set-up of linkages, which don't normally move unless a branch gets up in there and bends a linkage rod.
I would check all the position control linkages for loosened lock nuts and bent rods.
Without knowing your exact tractor - there should be a position control rod linked to the lever and another one linked in some way to the rock shaft. Think of the first as "telling" the hydraulics where you want the 3ph, think of the second one as "telling" the hydraulics where the 3ph actually is - the difference between these two SHOULD cause the hydraulics to move the 3ph.
As with any feedback system - oscillation is possible, or probable if designed by me
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
I see in your profile we're talking about a 1974 MF135.
Did this come about gradually? Or just all at once? First I'd check the strainer/filter. as well as condition of hydraulic oil. (water? dirt or other contaminates?)
Will the relief quick knocking if you bump the lift lever down just a tick? (maybe a 1/2" or so?) If so, you might need to adjust the linkage (internal) Get a shop/service manual for that. (Available @ AGCO MF dealers) I've never seen a 100 series Massey yet that didn't have a knocking relief valve @ fully raised position. The jerking/jumping lift isn't at all normal though.
Normally I'd suggest contacting BIG DEAN AUSTIN @ his website for help with adjusting controls. However, AOL, in its infinate wisdom, decided to shut down AOL Hometown where Big Dean's site WAS accessed. In a short time, FENA (Ferguson Enthusiast's of North America) will be hosting Big Deans site at THEIR website. I could attempt to walk you through the adjustment, but most likely you'd be too confused to even tie your shoe again after I got done. Big Dean is a master at explaining the proceedure in a way you can understand clearly.
http://www.fergusonenthusiasts.com/
The problem has been with the tractor for some time now. The lift got to the point that it would not lift & when it did was very slow. I have a manual and took the top plate off and found the filter completely clogged. Replaced this and checked a few of the adjustments and re-installed. It now raise's much better and will also lift more weight, but it jumps on the way up.
I have to have my draft control lever completely up for the lift to work.
After going into this once, the next time should not be a problem. I have all the necessary tools, just not the wisdom.
I have to have my draft control lever completely up for the lift to work.
After going into this once, the next time should not be a problem. I have all the necessary tools, just not the wisdom.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
It's normal to have to have th edraft control lever all the way into the raised position to make the POSITION control lever work. Vice versa is true also. The "IMPROVED FERGUSON SYSTEM" on the 100 series isn't quite the same as the original Ferguson system on the earlier models.
Are you attemping to lift with the draft control lever? If so, don't. Use ONLY the position control lever. Also, you MAY have a weak master control spring. That's the big spring at the tractor end of the 3-point top link. The way to test that is to ELIMINATE the top lik from the process. Hook a chain to the set of holes just below the normal top link mounting point and attach the other end to the top of the implement. Then raise the lift. If it works better (normal) you have a weak MCS OR it's out of adjustment. (It needs to be snug but not tight. You SHOULD be able to slightly turn the spring with your bare hands but with great difficulty)
