lift piston

coarsegold hills · May 23, 2015

Hi I am new to the tractor world and just bout a ford 1300 ,,, bare with me because I have never worked on a tractor ,, so i want to change my lift piston seal and looking at this diagram it looks like I can just pull the thing strait out without having to remove that whole top half ,, looks like I might have to remove the pto shiftier on my model,, there was a video on youtube of a guy doing this on a 1910 looks easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UU4jTJDkrk but that tractor has more room. The reason for changing the seal is when i shut the tractor off the 3pt lowers to the ground pretty fast, so I am assuming the problem lies in the lift piston,,,Has anyone done it this way on a 1300, any help would be appreciated thank you.

Soundguy · May 23, 2015

Probably lift piston seal, but could be a leak anywhere in the high pressure circuit side, aft of the check valve.

Fawken · May 23, 2015

I did the seal on my 1100 about 3 years ago. Very, very similar machine. Easy job the parachute seal was ~$40 at NH. You just remove the plate that the speed control valve (knob) is attached to and the piston will come right out. It is a floating ball joint- no wrist pin. I stuffed some foam blocks in the cylinder so I could clean and hone it. Pics: This photo shows the lift flow control valve removed

Cylinder view from above

Cylinder before honing

cylinder after honing

Foam plugs. they should fit tight. Top one sides coated with moly. Bottom one coated with mineral oil

Prop arms up to keep push rod down out of way for honing

coarsegold hills · May 24, 2015

Thanks so much great pics. I think on the 1300 the cylinder comes out with the head should be easier to clean and hone if needed,, I just hope I can get it out past the pto lever without removing it, I will post some pics of my efforts ,, thanks agian

Fawken · May 24, 2015

coarsegold hills said:
Thanks so much great pics. I think on the 1300 the cylinder comes out with the head should be easier to clean and hone if needed,, I just hope I can get it out past the pto lever without removing it, I will post some pics of my efforts ,, thanks agian

I looked in the I&T Service Manual and the lift cylinder on the 1300 is virtually the same as the 1100. I had a leaky seal for about 10 years before it got bad enough to finally drive me to replace it. If yours is just slowly going down at shut-off and hasn't been oscillating while toting heavy implements the bore is probably OK.

J_J · May 24, 2015

coarsegold hills said:
Hi I am new to the tractor world and just bout a ford 1300 ,,, bare with me because I have never worked on a tractor ,, so i want to change my lift piston seal and looking at this diagram it looks like I can just pull the thing strait out without having to remove that whole top half ,, looks like I might have to remove the pto shiftier on my model,, there was a video on youtube of a guy doing this on a 1910 looks easy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UU4jTJDkrk but that tractor has more room. The reason for changing the seal is when i shut the tractor off the 3pt lowers to the ground pretty fast, so I am assuming the problem lies in the lift piston,,,Has anyone done it this way on a 1300, any help would be appreciated thank you.

It could also be the 3pt valve.

Did you turn the descent valve close and then see if the 3pt descends.

If it still descends, then it is likely the seals on the 3pt piston.

coarsegold hills · May 24, 2015

Thanks again for your help guys it does oscillate and little and shake the tractor when it is up,, and I closed the descent valve to check what J_J had said and it still lowers and pretty fast ,, do either of you know where the 3 pt valve is located that J_J mentioned

Fawken · May 24, 2015

I think he's talking about the position/draft control valve located under the seat on the right-hand side. I believe the 1300 has a stop nut and screw for adjusting pressure rather than shims as on my 1100. The draft and position adjustments are made via the linkage. Personally (unless someone screwed with the linkage or pressure) I've never seen one actually have a problem. I've already left the shop so don't have the service manual in front of me, but your best bet is the lift cylinder seal.