Lightning Bolt Warning Light Problem - Redux

frankmako · Jul 5, 2013

The lightning bolt warning light on my YM1601D came on today about one hour into a four hour bush hog job. The tractor was running around 2,300 rpms on level ground. The light flashes on and off. Sometime the light is bright, mostly it is dim flashes. It has done this before several times in the past when I use the tractor to bush hog. This problem first started in 2009. Back then I changed out the belt trying to fix the problem, but it did not do any good. So today I turned on the tractor lights and the warning light stopped. So I cut the field today with the lights on today. If I drop the rpms below 1,500 rpms the light will stop. It only does it when I use the tractor cutting at high rpms. All other times/work it never comes on. Must be something about low rpms that keeps the light out. Over the past several years I have changed out the belt and the voltage regulator. The charging system is working as it should so the generator is good. Either I got a lose wire or something bad is going on. Could this be an over-charge condition? Could this be belt slipping at high rpms. What checks do I need to do to run down this problem?

tthopskin@yahoo.ca · Jul 5, 2013

it could be a wornig light to tell you that you are over revving it ..try cutting at 2000 and a lower gear or just go slower..

Smoody · Jul 5, 2013

I had exact issue on a ym2001..its most likely a loose wire..I think up near battery. On mine I snipped the connectors and just twisted the wires together with electrical tape..I may have a thread on here about it..would be years ago..

kenmac · Jul 5, 2013

If you don't find any external problems. Take the alt. off and have it checked at an alt. repair shop

winston1 · Jul 5, 2013

When it is doing that reach down under the dash to the fuse box and rotate the fuses and watch your light.

clemsonfor · Jul 5, 2013

The connector on the back of my alt is kind of slopply the stud seems loose and every now n then my charge light. Flashes. U can affect I. By wiggling the wire on it. Will do It then stop for months then do it part of a day and stop. I don't worry as 95% off the time I dint get it?

frankmako · Jul 13, 2013

it looks like the fan belt that I put on two years ago is the problem. it is slipping. I got it at the local auto store. so I know it is not the correct size. the adjustment is at the end so I don't have any more to go. so does anyone know the correct size v-belt that will fit. I know I can order one from hoye, but I need to have this done by the first of the week.

winston1 · Jul 14, 2013

I do not warranty this but this is what I think. Goodyear 17341 or metric number 13av0865

frankmako · Jul 14, 2013

check the fan belt and it was had just a little play in it. fixed the problems and now the light is on all the time. out comes the volt meter to check the alternator and the readings at 1,500 rpm i get 20 vac and at 2,000 rpm i get 24.5 vac. so it looks like it is good. go to the battery and i get 12.35 volts. so nothing going to the battery from the regulator. yesterday the battery was getting over 13 plus volts and the light was off. go the voltage regulator and can not get anything coming out. or i must not be checking the correct wires. i have the new vr-522 regulator on. i put it on in 2008. what wires to i need to check to see what is coming out of the regulator?

winston1 · Jul 15, 2013

Touch the black lead on your volt meter to ground. The red lead on the voltmeter to red or white coming out of the regulator should show 13+dcv.

frankmako · Jul 15, 2013

called hoye's today. they told me to check the fuse. they said the replacement regulator that i put in several years ago should have not failed. the fuse is not getting good connection. now i got to find the fuse panel. i think it is some where under the dash behind the panel in front of the gear shift.

winston1 · Jul 15, 2013

frankmako said:
called hoye's today. they told me to check the fuse. they said the replacement regulator that i put in several years ago should have not failed. the fuse is not getting good connection. now i got to find the fuse panel. i think it is some where under the dash behind the panel in front of the gear shift.

I mentioned that in post #5. Your fuse panel is right under the dash, little to the left of center.

frankmako · Jul 23, 2013

fuses are good. battery is good. took it out and had it checked, showed 12.65 volts. that is good with me running the tractor and 30 plus starts trying to run this problems down. load test was also good on battery. checked all wiring, all were good. but i still get 12.4 reading on the red wire, yellow wire and tan wire coming from the vr-522 six wire voltage regulator (vr). on the starter i have a wire from the battery and a red/white wire and a red wire going to the same post. i have read you take the red wire off to check the vr. but the red/white wire and the red wire are made on the same spade. looks like a factory job. when i take the red/white/red wires off the tractor and put the battery wire back on the starter the tractor will not turn over/start. i have a wire that goes to the top of the start at the solenoid that has no power to it when running. t i can not see what color it is, except yanmar green. so it looks like the second vr has failed or i am missing something. where do i look now before i buy a third vr.

careyo63 · Jul 24, 2013

When I bought my YM2000 I was having the same exact problem. It has both Regulator's also Old style and New. Drove me nuts. Ended up loose/bad were it connects to the back of the Fuse Panel. After finding it and curious I hooked the Old Reg. back up and it works also.

winston1 · Jul 24, 2013

I don't want to be a naysayer but I have replaced my vr522 regulator twice on my 2002d. In my earlier post I stated you should get 13+dc volts out of the red and white wires coming out of your regulator. I think instead of white the wire is probably yellow. In any event if you stick your red test probe down in that plug to touch the wires it is the red one and the one right next to it. Naturally you would have your black test probe touching ground. Just to clarify I am posting a picture. I remove myself from all liability if you buy a new one and it doesn't solve your problem.

I just know from personal experience these so called "no problem" regulators can go bad. I also know mine puts out 13+ volts on those two wires. :thumbsup:

careyo63 · Jul 24, 2013

Yep! it was the the yellow wire 10 amp. connection on the fuse panel. And sure enough CRS. so I had to go look. Were does it go? The Voltage Reg.

I have a 520 Reg. yours should be a 522 but it looks to be wired the same looking at my YM2000 Dia.

clemsonfor · Jul 24, 2013

Yep a "no fail" part can fail. After all its just a part, they wear out.

I have replaced many "no/low failure" parts on all kinds of things in my day.

Exhaust manifold in a southern truck at 20 years old, stator in one of my outboards, lets see on and on... THose are just a few that come to my mind. There are plenty of others im sure.

Oh last work truck i had, new power steering pump at 30 000 miles, catalytic converters at like 60 000miles......

frankmako · Jul 24, 2013

winston1 said:
I don't want to be a naysayer but I have replaced my vr522 regulator twice on my 2002d. In my earlier post I stated you should get 13+dc volts out of the red and white wires coming out of your regulator. I think instead of white the wire is probably yellow. In any event if you stick your red test probe down in that plug to touch the wires it is the red one and the one right next to it. Naturally you would have your black test probe touching ground. Just to clarify I am posting a picture. I remove myself from all liability if you buy a new one and it doesn't solve your problem. I just know from personal experience these so called "no problem" regulators can go bad. I also know mine puts out 13+ volts on those two wires. :thumbsup:

the red, yellow, and tan wires read the same, 12.4 volts. so it looks like i will have to replace the vr for the third time.

frankmako · Aug 11, 2013

Got in a new voltage regulator and on it went. Problem gone. It looks like the voltage regulator was the problem all along. But i did all the checks and run down all the wires to make sure I did not have any other problems. So now the tractor is on it's third voltage regulator. I just hope this will be the last one I will have to do.