Load Equalizing Hitches?

[Jackrabbit_Slim]

Wondering if anyone knows of any good web sites on installing load equalizing hitches.

Thanks,

Slim

 

[dieseldoc]

my equalizer hitch slides into my standard 2" receiver hitch,then the load bars are inserted into the equalizer,then the load chains are attached to the trailer,it is rated for 10,000 pounds(a bit of overkill on my 1/2 ton truck).

 

[Jackrabbit_Slim]

Thanks, Doc. I'm good with that. I've got a Pro Eagle that's going onto a Ford F150 4X4. This is hauling a Kubota B2710, FEL, and hoe (or other implements depending on the job at hand) on an 18 foot car hauler rated at 7,000 lbs.

I was towing without the equalizer without any problems, but didn't feel good about the weight ratings on the old system. My highest total tow weight is about 5560 lbs. and I wanted to beef the system up a bit. Jumped up to a Class IV hitch, 2 5/16 ball rated at 10,000 lbs. and, of course, the equalizer.

I'm having a little trouble getting things leveled out and hoping there's something on the web that will help me get straightened out.

Slim

 

[Bird]

You might find some help at Eaz-Lift. As for getting levelled out. First, park the trailer level on level ground, measure the height of the hitch to the top of the ball; i.e., inside top of the coupler on the trailer. Second, when you put the hitch head into the receiver on the truck, with it also parked level, make sure the top of the ball is the same as you measured on the trailer. If your trailer tongue weight is pretty heavy, you can even have the top of the ball as much as 3/4" higher, but I wouldn't go any higher than that, and probably not even a half inch, but don't have the ball lower than the height you measured on the trailer. Then hook up the trailer and measure the amount of distance that the tongue weight of the trailer lowered the top of the ball (personally, I always measured the distance from a spot on the bumper to the ground and then did the same on the front bumper. Then hook up the lift bars and you may have to experiment to find which chain link will result in lowering the front of the truck and the rear of the truck approximately the same amount.

Of course, I'm assuming you know how to hook up the bars; i.e., hook up the trailer, then with the tongue jack, raise the front of the trailer, and therefore the rear of the truck, to make it easier to hook up the proper chain link on the lift bars.

Now that's the way I did it; maybe someone else has another or better way.

 

[Jackrabbit_Slim]

That's the whole package right there, Bird. I'm most appreciative.

Thanks,

Slim

 

[Lazy]

Hi
you might want to check out the reese website, they have some good hitches and installation information.

http://www.reese-hitches.com/site_index.htm

charlie

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

What I've done is back my ball under the coupler, lower the trailer until it just makes contact (which usually entails seeing the hitch squat a bit then backing off a turn or two to that point of equilibrium). I then attach the arms and hook the chain on the hooks as tightly as possible manually. I then lock them in place and then raise my jack all the way and head down the road.

I've never measured the front and rear bumper heights but it sounds like that would be a good idea so I can see how my method 'measures up,' so to speak.

I have to say that I have been truly amazed at the 'feel' of towing with the load equalizing hitch as opposed to without it. The heavier the load, the more dramatic the difference. I'm sure you'll be happy you got yours.

 

[Egon]

Perhaps one addition: The equalizing bars should tightened so they are parallel with the trailer frame or so the instructions with my Reese said.

Having air bags on the back can also make towing easier as you can keep the truck level and maintain the proper steering conditions.

My truck is allined with 2000 pounds on the back. To determine the air bag inflation I measure to the inside of the rear fender wells.

Egon

 

[dmftoy1]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here. If you're not getting enough weight transfer ahead of the truck's rear axle then you need to adjust the ball angle. That wasn't clear to me on the first one I setup, but it's something I take for granted now. Your hitch instructions should say that there are a maximum number of links that can hang free or a mininum number of links that must be between the bar and the attachment to the trailer frame. If you aren't getting the bars tight enough to make the front and rear squat equally (on the truck) then you need to increase the angle of the ball so that you can increase the bar tension.

Have a good one,
Dave

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

<font color="blue"> "increase the angle of the ball so that you can increase the bar tension." </font>

I'm not sure exactly what you mean. I know there's an adjustment for the ball angle but my question is which way it should be adjusted and what is the ideal adjustment position and how is it determined?