load match not on?

[XviperX2]

I just got my 3320 last week it is great but the load match switch seems to do nothing? i have stalled it twice doing loader work lifting a full bucket of dirt in low range and about 2200 rpms.

On the digital display if i push the display button to load match settings it reads "loadof" with the load match button in either position?

Any thoughts or help would be a great help before i call the dealer for repair!

 

[Garrabo]

not sure if that switch is controlled by a fuse or not.

 

[browns40]

Hiu viper,

I thought the loadmatch worked by increasing RPM's, but after some time with it an continued reading of the manual I believe the loadmatch works by downshifting the tractor to a lower "gear"....

As you're in low there's no "downshifting"...

Still, what you describe has never happened to me, even full of wet clay in 72" bucket in A range

Check out "parts" on deere.com and you can see the wiring diagram for the loadmatch... maybe something has gone on it;

Good luck!

 

[NoMo]

Once you get the "loadof" on the display, have you tried using the turn signal switch to toggle the value?

 

[KHutch]

I also have a 3320. The load match does not work for the loader. If you are digging in hard ground you need to use more rpm. The load match only works for the drive wheels. It does slow the tires to keep up the rpm.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

With loadmatch on you should not be able to stall the engine even in low range. It controls the swash plates on the ttransmission and should take you down to a creep.

Somethings wrong...

 

[XviperX2]

does anyone know if my digital display should change from "loadof" to "loadon" when the load match button is switched? Because mine dosent change.

just carrying a full bucket of dirt in "A" range up a 5-10% incline drops my rpms from 2000 down to 1300 rpms my understanding is that with loadmatch on your rpms should stay up but your speed will be decreased automatically?

 

[Garrabo]

My 3120 says loadon. I believe the function redirects the hydraulic flow(away from the attachments) to apply more power to the wheels and it does slow the tractor down a bit. with load on you can pull up to a tree and spin all 4 wheels and it will not stall.

 

[XviperX2]

Thanks for all the help everyone. Looks like i'll be calling the dealer for service and its not even a week that ive had it home.

 

[ovrszd]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With loadmatch on you should not be able to stall the engine even in low range. It controls the swash plates on the ttransmission and should take you down to a creep.

Somethings wrong... )</font>

Yep, very good description. Load Match is designed to slow the hydro drive to a wheel speed the engine can maintain without dropping rpm. It's nothing more than a glorified override of the hydro pedal. You can get the same effect by raising your foot on the hydro pedal as the engine rpms begin to drop. Man's tendency is to push the pedal further down when you begin to lose wheel speed. All that does is increase the wheel speed versus engine speed, which in turn creates less HP to the wheels. If you will lift your foot instead, you will do the same thing as the Load Match. Kinda like the latest gizmo on new cars that takes the steering away from you if it thinks you yanked the wheel enough to cause a roll over. No thanks, I'll drive my own please. Same with Load Match, no thanks, I'll control the hydro pedal please. Load Match has nothing to do with the attachment's hydraulics. Your Load Match is definately not turned on.

 

[Garrabo]

since you put it in that light that makes sense. The tranny upshifts when you step down on the pedal but if you dont press to hard it stays in low gear. I guess the switch is just there to compensate for the tendancy to press the pedal further thinking more power but really a higher gear occures when you stomp down.

I found this statement:An anti-stall function – LoadMatch – that controls ground speed to keep the engine operating at peak horsepower as the load varies.

 

[RogerH]

I believe that the connector to your LoadMatch switch is disconnected and hanging loose under the instrument panel, therefore it is off all the time. You could check this yourself if you have metric sockets and a little mechanical know how. Small fingers also help.

To remove the instrument panel, flip open the fuel door and spot the two bolts that go in at an angle on either side of the opening. I think they require a 10 mm socket. Before removing them, I recommend opening the hood and finding the pockets in the aluminum piece that capture the nuts on the other end of the bolts. Stuff something in those pockets to keep the nuts from falling out and getting lost. Then remove the two bolts. The instrument panel should then lift up at the front, pivoting about the lower rear point. You should be able to see the back side of the Load Match switch and see if the wiring is connected. If not, find it and plug it in.

Reassemble, making sure the nuts don't fall out.

Or call your dealer and make him do it.

 

[jmt1271]

not to repeat but just to state it clearly, when load match is "on", it will say "loadon", when off, it will say "loadof". you should be able to toggle between the two selections with the loadmatch switch.

 

[jmt1271]

I believe that the connector to your LoadMatch switch is disconnected and hanging loose under the instrument panel, therefore it is off all the time. You could check this yourself if you have metric sockets and a little mechanical know how. Small fingers also help.

To remove the instrument panel, flip open the fuel door and spot the two bolts that go in at an angle on either side of the opening. I think they require a 10 mm socket. Before removing them, I recommend opening the hood and finding the pockets in the aluminum piece that capture the nuts on the other end of the bolts. Stuff something in those pockets to keep the nuts from falling out and getting lost. Then remove the two bolts. The instrument panel should then lift up at the front, pivoting about the lower rear point. You should be able to see the back side of the Load Match switch and see if the wiring is connected. If not, find it and plug it in.

Reassemble, making sure the nuts don't fall out.

Or call your dealer and make him do it.

roger, i havent tried doing it yet, but that is a very well stated set of directions. easy to understand. thats not too easy to do, at least for me, thanks.

 

[XviperX2]

Thanks RogerH, that was the problem I thought it might be someting that easy but I didn't know how to access the back of the switch. I opened it up and the connector was just hanging there. That was an easy fix!! Thanks again for everyones help