loader rebuild

[mikehaugen]

I bought a worn out 80 loader for my 1070 a while ago. The "bosses" or "bushings" (whatever you want to call them) on the frame were worn pretty bad as well as the pins. A 1" pin still fits pretty tight in the pivoting part of the arms pretty well. I have cut out all of the bushings and have the material to make new ones to weld onto the frame.

I plan to use 1" 4140 chromoly rod to make the pins, and secure them in the bushings with 1/4" roll pins. Does this sound like a good idea? Are the 1/4" pins big enough, or should I go 5/16, or something else? The pivoting part that goes between the bushings has the grease zerk, and I will probably cut a radial groove around the pin and 1 axial groove to distribute the grease. Another option instead of the roll pin is to make a steel pin with tab welded on the end to bolt to the frame, like I see other loaders with, but I don't know that it is necessary. I still need to check, but is a "1/4" roll pin oversized to fit in a 1/4" hole, or does the hole need to be smaller?

After all the welding/machining is done, I will spray with valspar "tractor and implement" paint in John Deere Green. I think I may use carbit epoxy primer, if I can find it reasonably priced. I have not yet decided, but may make a SSQA mount for the front of the loader while I am at it. I got a really nice set of plans from a member here from a while ago, but I can't remember his name now. I just thought I would run this plan by you guys to see if you see any faults in my plan.

 

[mikehaugen]

I forgot to mention, but I plan to try a 7014 welding rod for the bushings. I have never used it, but seems to have good strength with less penetration. I think this may be good for if/when I ever want to cut/grind them off again. I am pretty proficient with 6010/7018 but thought I would try this. Is this a bad idea?

 

[Renze]

I would overbore them and put bronze/PTFE bushes in them, just like i have in my front loader. http://www.skf.com/binary/21-5422/gl02f02_tcm_12-5422.gif
then you'll never need to grind the frame itself, just tap new bushes in. I payd 3 or 4 euro a piece for a 32x34x30mm bushing at an industrial hardware house.

 

[mikehaugen]

That had been a consideration, but the part I am welding on theoretically should never wear, as the pin does not pivot within them. That is why I am reluctant to call them bushings. These are the round, tubing like pieces that are welded onto the outer platea that hold the pin. The pivoting part of the loader is still pretty tight around a 1" pin. Why it wore there, I have no idea. I am guessing the retaining pins wore out at some point and were neglected. If anything I thought about boring out the arms themselves and putting bronze sleeves in them, but I think I may wait and see how this woks and do that if/when I need to. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[BHD]

when rebuilding my loader and making my back hoe and other projects, I have found a set of the adjustable hand reamers, (would like better)but cost is an issue, and the adjustable aspect can help save one a lot of frustration as well, to get a perfectly straight and parallel hole through all thee bushings is a challenge, and at different angle even a few thousands can cause binding,

with the reamers one can correct or align the hole and it is usually long enough to reach through the entire set of bushings at once,

yes I used a shaft to align the bushings during tacking, even the heat of welding can make a bushing miss align and the warpage can pull it off,

just a suggestion, you may find helpful, you can buy the reamers off EBay, Enco, MSC, and many other locations, that sell machine tools.

 

[Renze]

yes I used a shaft to align the bushings during tacking, even the heat of welding can make a bushing miss align and the warpage can pull it off,

Usually the bushes shrink from the welding heat. I had them lathed to fit, but had to grind a tenth or so with a piece of sandpaper in a home made holder in the angle grinder, to make the pins fit. At work, the loader frames are machined after welding so that welding distortion plays no role...