Log movement.. thoughts?

[RadarTech]

folks,
I am finishing up a house in the foothills of Western NC.. And I have a "few" logs to deal with again...
For the first 30-40 logs I did not have a tractor and just cut where they laid and spent lots of time moving it all around..
And now, a nice L3400 HST with a FEL....
With about 25 logs to move around to where it will be easier to cut,split and stack.
the logs are in 3 separate areas and vary in size from 12-18 inches in diameter with lengths of 10-15 feet.
Mostly the larger diameter logs are shorter in length....they are scattered from level ground (where my tractor can get to them easily) to an area 2-5 feet below ground level down a bank to 2-5 feet up a bank.
when I say bank, I mean a true drop off or incline where I can't drive up or down due to the angle.

The logs above the bank I think I can just drag forward. and we're good.
The logs below the bank, well these are parrallel to the bank and the drive up area has a slight angle right to left....I think a centered bucket with 2 chains around the bucket and a hook should be ok.. if the weight is right....


So now for all the questions..

What should I use to hook the logs with?
I have seen the chain choker methods and the "pincher" devices.
Northern Industrial Steel Skidding Tongs | Log Skidding | Northern Tool + Equipment
or
Columbus McKinnon Log Grab Chain – 4700-Lb. Working Load, Model# 44105 | Log Skidding | Northern Tool + Equipment

Pros / Cons / safety issues?

With the fact that I have a L3400 with a loader, no thumb, and no winch handy, do I have enough weight to move these things safely?

If not, I guess just cutting them shorter, but how short?

and lastly-- how heavy are these logs? I know there is a formula someone knows about-- length x diameter x something = weight...
Most of them have been drying for a 6-8 months, some for only 2 months.

They are a mix or Poplar, and Oak and some others on the bottom of the stacks that I can't see real good.. Looks like poplar, but the wood is too hard...

thoughts?

 

[johnk]

Try this for the log weights. http://www.forestryforum.com/calcs/log_weight.htm


I would hammer the tongs in attached to a chain and see what happens. I'd rather pull from the back of my tractor and have some weight in the bucket..Nice and easy does it..

 

[RadarTech]

That calculator is great! thanks..
Man Poplar is a whole lot lighter than I expected..
I hope to get time this weekend to move some of them around...

we shall see how it works...

thanks,
Jim

 

[madrone]

I've been hauling a lot of downed trees with the tractor lately. I use a 5/8 choker cable or sometimes just a chain. You really don't need anything fancy just strong, because if whatever your using snaps it could take your head off, literally.
Whenever possible, skid from the draw bar. If it's flat you can use the loader, just keep it high enough to get the butt end of the log off the ground and be ready to drop it in case you start tipping. Careful, it happens fast!

 

[PILOON]

I pulled some 10-12 inch 14' maples by simply wrapping 2 loops of 3/8 chain around the log butt and pulled using my tow bar just this fall.
The chain has an open hook so it kinda choked itself real tight.
I actually used 2 20ft chains end to end and when the logs dragged up thru the ditch they plowed such a deep rut I had to regrade the road.
If you use your drawbar set it at the lowest position and try to pull in a straight line as even a side pull can cause seat puckering.
Also a slanted cut on the log butt helps as it kinda acts as a ski to ride over obstructions but then the tricky part is to pull while the slanted cut is in the correct position.
A helper with a pole or 6ft crowbar can do wonders to help steer a skidding log but he needs to agile and not get in the way of the log.

And, yes be careful! I always skid with my foot hovering on the clutch and hand on the hydraulics plus I use my lowest gears.

Personally my preferance is a good chain and as I said earlier a slip hook (or as on one of my chains, a large hardened 3" ring that I use as a chocker)

Have fun and good luck!

 

[JimMorrissey]

Radar,

Your subject sounds like a bodily function

 

[savageactor7]

We use a short chain around the log and lift with the 3PH. So much easier on the tractor than dragging.

Just be careful if a dragged tree hits a stump or other immovable object it can flip you over faster than you can react. That's prob the nicest thing about using the 3PH cause with the tree partially lifted we can drive slower. When trees were fully dragged with our older tractor you had to maintain momentum.

 

[MarkV]

In my mind the problem is they are down a steep side cut. You may be able to drag them up hill BUT if they get hung and you are to close to the edge......well. I would get some steel cable, like winch cable, and run it through a snatch block, pulley, so I could pull at a 90 degree angle. If pulling straight a road bed does not offer much room to work. If lifting with FEL and chain make sure you have as much weight as you can on the back of the tractor.

MarkV

 

[ToadHill]

This is my log hauling method. It keeps the end of the log off the ground so that you don't catch it on stumps and such. I welded it together out of steel I had laying around. I use a 10 ft' chain with a choaker hook .

 

[streamin]

Toadhill, I like that idea. Very nice. I usually just drag them with a chain also.