Log Splitter Build Question 1

[flatheadford]

I cut some spindles off an old car today to use for the log splitter axle.
The axle will not have springs and be using 15" tires. I'm thinking about making the axle 5ft. to the outside of the tires, and have the frame and tires even with the push plate to not get in the operators way. Would this be ok to do it this way.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

just my two cents worth of advice. A little narrower is nice to move the splitter in and around the woodpiles. I have a 34 ton splitter that it might be about 3.5-4 wide at the tires. I can move it around all of the wood splitting area by hand pretty much. That way I can keep the splitter close to where I am stacking it. You more than likely aren't going to tow that anywhere. But if you do springs or some sort of suspension is nice. Mine has a tow ball but I wouldn't tow it far on the road because it has small tires and no suspension.

 

[triptester]

Position the axle and other components so the overall balance will allow for easy moving by hand.

 

[J_J]

This picture is just typical of a lot of log splitters.

 

[toxicjeeper]

to give you an idea, this is what mine looks like with truck wheels and a width almost 5 feet..Not done yet..need hydro hoses and a bit more welding.. Oh and the jack isnt staying there..gonna build something different underneath the beam for that..



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[Oliver1655]

I built mine with 5 ft between the fenders. I wanted it wider for better stability going down the highway & while using the log lift.

It travels along at 70 mph without any sway - with or without a trailer of wood behind it & the splitter has minimal rock to it while picking up large rounds with the log lift.

 

[LD1]

I agree that you want to try to keep it somewhat balanced. Makes it much easier to move around.'

The larger tires also makes it move easier by hand. It will roll over the debris and bark and stuff much easier than the little 7-8" tires most of them have.

 

[turnkey4099]

I'd put the wheels a bit further back. Very annoying to the operator to have the wheel intruding into the operating area. For _real_ annoyance, try out what happens with teh "tip-ups". Wheel right in the way of the operator. You could mount the motor/pump and perhaps tank on the back and help balance it.

Also consider mounting the valve on centered above the cylinder - machine can then be operated from both sides. Eliminates some of the repositioning of it to have the 'to be splits' on the correct side. My homebuilt was that way and I wish my Troybilt sas also, although again the wheel/motor positon prohibits working from the off side.

Also raise the beam up. There is enough strain on backs moving blocks around while splitting whithout having to bend over to boot. A good height IMO is so your knuckles just brush the top of the beam. I finally bit the bullet after years of bending over, cut mine homebuilt off the axle and raised it. Made an entirely different splitting experience.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

This picture is just typical of a lot of log splitters.

Typical yes, also designed by someone who has never run one. An hour using one and an engineer would be getting the wheels back out of the way.

Harry K