Log Splitter Decisions Decisions

6sunset6 · Mar 3, 2009

Another post on a log splitter.
I have a 4 x 24 cylinder splitter. I converted the gas engine to an electric motor 1.5 hp face mounted 11 gpm Barnes 2 stage pump 3600 rpm 220v.
Works great single wedge . low tires so the beam is about 8 inches off the ground. The top of the beam. I have split 20" diameter ash with no problem. I am short so bending does not bother me much. But lifting 20" sections even 8 inches and then repositioning the chunks is something else.
I have coming up 4 white oaks 24" plus. I am not looking foward to handling those chunks with my current spitter set up. I had so many choices I had to do an economic weighted analysis to figuire out what to do. See the attachment. I do this sometimes when there are so many options it gets hard to see straight. The first column sort of compares each feature in each option. Say time to aquire if I buy it time is zero so the value is 10 but If I build it the value is something less depending on how long to build or how complicated. But that's not the whole story. Another weighting feature is how important that option is. Thats the X col. Of course you can fiddle with the numbers to make it come out anyway you want. You can see with out maintaining another engine the new spitter is the best option. When I fold in maintaining another engine then adding a log lifter to my current splitter is best. The reason the the cost is so low for that is I have all the partds around. It is an interesting approach to decision making.Makes me feel like I applied some thought to what I am going to do.
All that said I still have not decided. Was this understandable?
Sorry .xls will not upload and .pdf is 2 pages hard to read .zip did not work either.

Knotbored · Mar 3, 2009

I don't see the attachment so I don't understand all the options you are considering.
If your issue is lifting the heavy logs just 8" then perhaps a simple see-saw you could roll the log onto one end, step on the other and shape it so the log rolls off onto your splitter. I have a purchased electric log splitter and maple logs so I understand wanting to rasily man-handle the rounds. I even considered digging a trench for the splitter then making it ground level. Perhaps the trench idea is even better then the see-saw.

6sunset6 · Mar 3, 2009

I could not attach the spread sheet. I was working on the edit when you posted. Two issues getting the big pieces onto the beam and then moving them back and forth so as to keep whittling away at it. they are really heavy. I guess I am going to put a lifter and cradle shelves on my current machine. would really like a new one with a 5" cylinder and a 6way wedge. Dreaming. I priced a 6 way wedge from one of the manufacturres
$600 .

GT2 · Mar 3, 2009

6sunset6 said:
I could not attach the spread sheet. I was working on the edit when you posted. Two issues getting the big pieces onto the beam and then moving them back and forth so as to keep whittling away at it. they are really heavy. I guess I am going to put a lifter and cradle shelves on my current machine. would really like a new one with a 5" cylinder and a 6way wedge. Dreaming. I priced a 6 way wedge from one of the manufacturres
$600 .

I've used both horizontal and vertical log splitters. I found the vertical to work best with large rounds, but it's still not an easy job.

jas67 · Mar 3, 2009

GT2 said:
I've used both horizontal and vertical log splitters. I found the vertical to work best with large rounds, but it's still not an easy job.

I just got a (used) Vertical/horizontal model, and I can say this is definitely the best way to go. I split a bunch of 14-18" Oak rounds this past weekend, and I am so glad that I could put it vertical for those. Just roll the round over to it, and stand it up on the base (end) of the splitter. I left it that way all day, as since I don't have a cradle/work table around mine, I found it easier to work squatting in front of the splitter than having to bend over to pick up half the pieces that needed to be split again.

My splitter has a 4.5" X 26" cylinder, which I found to be a bit slow. It has an 8HP engine, but I'm not sure what GPM pump. With 8HP it should be a 16 GPM pump, but could be a 11 GPM one if the engine was swapped out from a smaller one.

My long term solution is that I purchased a 28 GPM two stage pump off ebay (whatever brand Northern tool sells), and a 4.2:1 gear box (also from ebay, for $23). The 4.2:1 gearbox will give me 3600 RPM output with 850 RPM (the higher speed available on my B7100HST's PTO). This pump requires about 12-13 HP, so it will be a perfect match for my little 'bota. I'm going to use quick connects, so that I can quickly change from stand alone gas-power to PTO power. I estimate I should get 62-150% improvement in speed, depending on what GPM pump is already on the splitter.

BTW, if you're burning a lot of wood, check out some of the other threads about palletizing the wood to move it, I just starting doing this, and what a time saver! I'm putting 4'-high sides on pallets that I have cut down to 20" X 48" (standard 40x48 pallet cut in half), and I can put that right next to splitter, and stack 'em as I split, and then just move the pallet to the drying location with the FEL. Right now, I'm just putting them on the bucket (I have a flat-bottom skidloader-type bucket), but my next implement purchase is a set of pin-on forks for the FEL.

Some of you with larger machines can handle bigger pallets than this, but this size puts me close at the limit of my loader's lift capability with green wood.

rdbrumfield · Mar 3, 2009

I personally would stay away from those multiple wedges of more than 4. Reason being, I pushed mine right off the end breaking my I beam in the process. Mine is a 3way and it works great for those large rounds. I realize my splitter is more than most would ever need, but I do incounter a lot of wood up to 4ft here in the nw.
For lifting rounds I have seen the hyd lifts and the verticle splitters, but you still have to wrestle the round around as you split.
This has worked very well for me. As I only split the bottom of the round by taking two pieces off the block while the rest stays hanging. The main block usually doesn't split, and you just lower or rotate using the line. There is absoulutely no back lifting, I love it, and you can stand up straight, to me that is a big deal. Splitting a cord or more an hour by myself without breaking a sweat is nice.
For the small splitters most folks are using, I would recommend welding on a lift using a boat winch for lifting those big blocks. By welding say a 4inch I beam from the end of the splitter up and out to center of the rail between the ram and knife so you can reach out with a cable and pick up a block I would think it would be a great help.
I am sure some have seen this, but it works so well I have to share it.

6sunset6 · Mar 4, 2009

Interesting replies.

I was thinking hard about how to add a log lift valve to my splitter. My detented splitter valve has no PB but then I realized if I put a PB valve first to run the lift and the ram detented valve after that all is well.