log splitter H or I beam question

oldmech · Dec 15, 2009

Hi! Trialsguy. The 4x4 H beam was free for me. A 4x6 will be better. BUT I think the best is a 6 in. x 8 in. Square(rect) tubing beam. More easy to weld more light more rigid and May be more strong. I seen in HD store the best Built wood splitter. They use the Square beam tube. the wedge or cutter run throw a slot in center beam. I look for a square tube beam. I join a pict of my stop end splitter. Wood never slip or go out. Good Luck ! Oldmech

trialsguy · Dec 15, 2009

Rounded up a couple 12"X12"x1" plate steel today I think I will use one or most of one for the cutting edge. Has anyone had any success cutting a edge using a torch? I have a porta band saw that Would probably work but take a long time. What do you think start at center of plate edge and angle back about a inch on both sides? Should give a nice splitting edge.

I will use half of the other plate making the rear mount for the cylinder, I am considering the idea of drilling out another hole for the future so If I go to a bigger cylinder it will already be there

I still have my eye out for a beam, the one we thought was a 6x8 turned out be a 4x8 so I am told.

towmotor · Dec 16, 2009

Wow.
1" plate.

Cutting the edge with a torch, even if you have the skill to cut so sharp a bevel, will likely as not make the resulting edge crystalline and brittle.
Sure, you could grind most of the brittle stuff away (and you probably will), but if it were me, I'd seriously consider trimming away about half the material needed for the edge, grinding the slag off, and then hammer forging it the rest of the way to a roughly sharp edge-the way a sword maker might do it.
Then grind/file to a sharp edge.

Just my two cents.

some zilch · Dec 16, 2009

you can buy ready made edges from northern for like $30; why waste so much time cutting and grinding? i am all about do-it-yourself, but that was a no brainer when i built my spliter this fall.

i had a 6"x4"x3/8" beam laying around, and knew that wouldnt be enough, so i welded a peice of 8"x1" plate down the entire length of it, making a nice large flange to work with, as well as adding alot of strength.

you can work with hardened steel. i make stuff out of used dozer blade cutting edges all the time. cann be tough trying to mechanically cut it, but the torch does fine.

trialsguy · Dec 16, 2009

I hadn't thought about forging it out, I have a propane forge that I believe the piece would fit but I tell you that would be some work. Not sure the elbow would be up for it anymore.

The trouble I am having working with hardened steel is the welding part, makes the area around the weld too brittle because it is cooling too fast. I could heat the parts up then weld them, that would help the grain in the metal align up a little better and cool a little slower.

1x8 plate! Wow that would make a great deck for the top

trialsguy · Dec 24, 2009

alright I got a nice h beam that measures 6 1/4x8x3/8 and a 4x24x1.5 cylinder to work with, and I have my splitter knife made up, it measure 12x12 and I am thinking I dont need for it to be so tall or so wide, what is the average size knife or wedge, I am thinking that taller is better and wider wont make a difference other then taking up more room and the beam and that doesnt matter either so I may leave it.

Since I have a full size cylinder to work with instead of the other one that I was going to use, Should I set it up so that the push backing travels to within a inch or so of the cutting edge?

qualatdo · Dec 24, 2009

Cami said:
The ultimate strength of the beam might not be as important as its stiffness; how much it deflects under load. Look for online beam calculators.

If you don't feel like playing engineer, then just look at a splitter with a simlar sized pump and ram to see what they do.

Cutting the edge with a torch, even if you have the skill to cut so sharp a bevel, will likely as not make the resulting edge crystalline and brittle.
Sure, you could grind most of the brittle stuff away (and you probably will), but if it were me, I'd seriously consider trimming away about half the material needed for the edge, grinding the slag off, and then hammer forging it the rest of the way to a roughly sharp edge-the way a sword maker might do it.
Then grind/file to a sharp edge.

Jerry/MT · Dec 24, 2009

trialsguy said:
I have 2 different beams that I want to make a log splitter rail out of, tell me which one would be the stronger

first is a 6x6x1/4 meaning it is 6" wide on the flats and the middle riser is 6" tall but its only a 1/4 thick

or a 4"x 6 1/2"x 3/8" thick this may be my choice because it is 6' long but its not as wide on the flats which I guess wouldnt be that big of a deal I could make a wider splitting table where the log lays to split.
I am not sure how much pump pressure I will have, its on a 18 horse ingersol tractor but I plan on using a 4" ram that is 20"

Are either of these going to be heavy enough?

Thanks

The stiffness in the verticle plane will be greater on the 4" x 6" X 3/8" beam. You can check it out by doing a google search on "beam bending". You can stiffen the 6x6 by welding plates to the web on both sides.