Log Splitter - I beam or box beam

[Anonymous Poster]

I am looking to build a log splitter. This subject was talked about earlier in other posts. I wanted it done by now. But I got busy with other "stuff."

My question is about beams. I am thinking of either a 8 x 8 "I" or "H" beam or a box beam. My question is strength. I plan on using a 5 or 5-1/2 inch ram for about 30 tons of force. How does one calculate steel strength?

The other consideration is using the box beam for the hydraulic tank. Has anyone ever boxed off the inside of a box beam and used it for a tank? Is it recommended?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Use the box beam for an axel, and oil tank combined.
For the splitter beam, use an I or H beam, much less possibility of the traveling wedge or pusher cramping with an I beam than box beam, and simpler construction of the traveling head.

 

[Taylortractornut]

I built one a few years agout out of 8X12 Ibeam and boxed part ofone side of the web off for my hydraulic tank, it worked very well and my customer likes it better than an external tank that hangs off the side, because he tows his in rough woods. Its also low enough to hold a hydraulic can comfortablywhen filling. It looks neater,more streamlined as well.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I was thinking of using the box for the axle. A 10x10 box beam 36 inches long gives a 15.6 gallon tank.

231 cubic inches equals one gallon.

10 x 10 x 36 / 231 = 15.58 gallons.


This should give enough reserve. I want the total width from outside the tires to be about 46 inches. Overall length about eight feet.

I'm just looking to see what others have done and how it has worked out for them.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Your oil volume never changes other than leaks. The volume is just for cooling. A gallon or 2 would be fine.

mikell

 

[rdbrumfield]

I built one with a 51/2 inch ram. I use an I beam and it flexes. It also has a permanent twist in it from some pretty serious pushing. To do it again I would move the knife instead of having the cyl move the block. I use a t knife so I figured it would try to pry up to much. Still it works great, I would use a heavier I beam and maybe even laminate the top with a piece of half inch flat bar to stiffen it.
Using the square tube for a hyd tank should work, be sure to have the pump below it though, I like to think that the pump is always with oil on startup.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

rdbrumfield-

What size beam did a 5-1/2 inch ram twist? I am planning on using a 8x8 beam.

About the knife/wedge. It is my understanding that putting the knife on the ram puts a tremendous twisting or prying force on the extended cylinder seriously shortening it's service life.

Your comment about the pump being below the tank is something I did not think about.

 

[Taylortractornut]

I have the Logsplitter granfather made he found an old railroad ral about ten feet long and we put the hydraulic cylinder off an AC 260 scraper on it as a pusher. the reason he used railroad iron is he made one from ibean and it bent trying to split a 36 inch oak log. In the 20 years of work its never bent on all the wood weve split with it.

 

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> putting the knife on the ram puts a tremendous twisting or prying force on the extended cylinder </font>

An internet search will quickly show that commercially available units are made both ways. Either way should work. The key is to tie whatever the cylinder is pushing to the lip of the I-beam top rail with some sort of sliding base. That way the non-linear forces applied to the push rod are minimized.

Pardon the picture quality, but my unit (commercially produced) has the wedge attached to the push-rod. The sliding base is an integral part of the wedge. Whether your cylinder moves the base block or wedge, tying it to the I-beam should give the cylinder a life free from twisting and bending forces.

OkieG

 

[Hoeman00]

The size of beam is part of the problem but u want the thickest
web u can find.
8x8 beam could have 3/16 to 3/4" web and the thicker the
web the thicker the flanges.
Go H beam because it is easier to mount slide to(I beam
has angled flanges on inside)unless u have a mill to machine
the angles.