Looking for a good older square baler

[foreman Etexas]

Knotters new was put on and Baler was never used after installed!!

 

[5030]

Knotters new was put on and Baler was never used after installed!!

Still need to see grease. If new, then why are the tension nuts screwed down so far? Recommended setting is 3 threads showing at the top of the acorn nut and no more and the twine discs don't look new. In fact, I see it running sisal or was running sisal.

It might be worth 3500 in your location, I don't know. I'd want the bailer hooked to a tractor (don't forget to swing it out) and cycle the knotters. See if the discs pick up the twine, the knotter brake functions correctly and the knotter stack is properly aligned and has no side play.

The actuator arm is already in the right position, just a matter off hooking it up and cycling it.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Still need to see grease. If new, then why are the tension nuts screwed down so far? Recommended setting is 3 threads showing at the top of the acorn nut and no more and the twine discs don't look new. In fact, I see it running sisal or was running sisal.

It might be worth 3500 in your location, I don't know. I'd want the bailer hooked to a tractor (don't forget to swing it out) and cycle the knotters. See if the discs pick up the twine, the knotter brake functions correctly and the knotter stack is properly aligned and has no side play.

The actuator arm is already in the right position, just a matter off hooking it up and cycling it.

Just going off what I was told about the knotters. Ill try and get it and try it out. I have a lease place about 5 miles from there,just dont have any grass to try it on!!!

 

[5030]

You can try it with nothing in the bale chamber. Just trip the knotters under power. Pull back and upward on the actuator arm until it clears the rack. That will actuate the knotters and you can do it at an idle (on the PTO).

It has to be twined first. I'd suggest 170 poly, out of the twine box, under the tension plate (plate needs to be 2-3 pounds pull) into the yoke eye, under the knotter frame, up through the knotter eyes (don't cross 'em) and through the needle eyes. Tie the end (of each) to the lower balecase stiffener. It should thread the twine discs. if it don't run like heck. I can fix 'em, but I'm here, not there.

 

[ModMech]

Cleaner and newer JD 346 for $100 LESS....

John Deere 346 Square Baler

 

[foreman Etexas]

Cleaner and newer JD 346 for $100 LESS....

John Deere 346 Square Baler

Hey,Thanks! But doesnt have any pics!! I will call,I did see(Barn Kept)

 

[ModMech]

There are a number square balers on CL right now ranging from as little as $700 to $4500 for a refurbed unit.

Dallas and East Tx are the places to look, just enter "baler" into the search box and get a drool rag

 

[5030]

Just keep in mind...and that means anyone in the market for a small square bailer or even a large square bailer.... That 'ready to bale' means nothing, or at least very little.

Any machine, unless the crank is broken, will bale. Tying is a whole different animal.

Any baler will, unless the crank is broken, will bale, push an untied bale through the bale case and have it fall on the ground.

I've had that happen more than once and will probably happen again. Nothing better to ruin an afternoon when I look in the mirror and I see what 'should' be a tied, tight bale, peel off the quarter turn and spread out in the field like a dead dog.:laughing:

The proof is always the tie. Never forget it.

 

[ModMech]

^ Jolly good point

To be frank, we've got a batter chance of being able to bale a dead dog than hay anyway...... too dry for even irrigated lawns here

 

[Cossack1917]

John Deere 14T Baler with parts baler

Saw this today on Craigslist. Little far from Texas, but someone else might be interested.

 

[5030]

^ Jolly good point

To be frank, we've got a batter chance of being able to bale a dead dog than hay anyway...... too dry for even irrigated lawns here

We got over an inch lat week after a long, hot dry spell. It was enough to green things up and alloow me another cut, which I'm in the middle of, right now. I believe I'll square all my contract jobs through freeze. Small squares are averaging 3-1/2 per here. That offsets the custom rates for my customers nicely.

John Deere 14T Baler with parts baler

Saw this today on Craigslist. Little far from Texas, but someone else might be interested.

That is a pretty nice 14T. It even has some paint on it, indicative of being kept in the barn. Great for a small holding. You don't want to pull a 14T or a 66 Hayliner down the road very far. Both have plain insert bearings in the hubs..... (Don't ask how I know).

Never been a fan of the auger feed. I'm a finger person. Even Deere, in their new bailers have went to packer fingers.

 

[IronHog]

Just keep in mind...and that means anyone in the market for a small square bailer or even a large square bailer.... That 'ready to bale' means nothing, or at least very little.

Any machine, unless the crank is broken, will bale. Tying is a whole different animal.

Any baler will, unless the crank is broken, will bale, push an untied bale through the bale case and have it fall on the ground.

I've had that happen more than once and will probably happen again. Nothing better to ruin an afternoon when I look in the mirror and I see what 'should' be a tied, tight bale, peel off the quarter turn and spread out in the field like a dead dog.:laughing:

The proof is always the tie. Never forget it.

Good post.


Nothing worse than customers waiting in the field on a 102 degree day and the baler is shooting a stream of untied hay out the back :laughing:


If you get a square baler you WILL learn to work on the knotters and you will get mad (and dirty)......just part of the deal.

 

[ModMech]

John Deere 14T Baler with parts baler

Saw this today on Craigslist. Little far from Texas, but someone else might be interested.

If that were close enough, I'd be on it like dirt~!

 

[5030]

Good post.


Nothing worse than customers waiting in the field on a 102 degree day and the baler is shooting a stream of untied hay out the back :laughing:


If you get a square baler you WILL learn to work on the knotters and you will get mad (and dirty)......just part of the deal.

Being retired I can't afford new implements anymore. I bought my tractors, the 105 and the M9 prior to retiring.

I'd love to have a new square bailer but the price of admission is too high. My 'new' 575 is new to me, but actually 10 years old, The same age as my BR760 round bailer. I bought that one new.

I bought the 575 from a local dealer, the same dealer I bought the BR from. I took my time and looked over the bailer carefully prior to dickering on his price. We started at 14 and got down to 10 plus 6 boxes of 170 and he delivered it.

I checked the knotter stack carefully, released them and rotated them up and checked the cams and followers. I checked the play in the plunger, looked at the bale case to see if the bailer was outside for a long time...it wasn't, just some very light rust.

I looked under the backside of the pickup reel, I wanted to see how much chaff was there. A little, not much. A little chaff under the covers too. I like that. It means the bailer didn't get pressure washed, just blown off. No old dried moldy hay in the nooks and crannies meaning it was stored outside and not cleaned.

I looked at all the grease Zerk's and around the gears for old grease, it was there, meaning the bailer got serviced regularly. Finally, I looked to see if the twine box had any balls in it. It did, 2 balls, partially used and 960 on the clicker. It wasn't a barn queen that had problems and someone traded in because they got frustrated. A quick look at the timing marks to be sure it was in time and I bought it.

After delivery (I made it clear that I wanted the owners manual and a shop manual), I have both for all my machines, I went over the machine and found 3 fittings that wouldn't take grease. Both needle pivots (right and left) and the left hand wiper arm pivot shaft. I pulled the needle yoke bushings, chucked them in the lathe and emery cloth'd them bright, replaced the Zerk's and refitted the bushings and greased them. Then I pulled the knotter up, released the follower ball, pulled the cotter and drifted the wiper arm from the casting. It was dried grease that was preventing new grease from entering, so I cleaned the shaft, installed a new Zerk and greased. replaced the follower ball and locktited the stud. I sharpened the twine knife while I had the wiper arm off.

The first job was a 5000 straw bale run on combined wheat in straight 1/4 mile windrows, combined with a JD Rotary and a 30 foot grain table. I bailed 5000 bales in 12 hours seat time with the M9 pulling the bailer running at 520 pto rpm, giving 14 slices per bale and bailing at 3mph ground speed. I used just over 10 balls of 170 poly and had less than 12 mis ties, all my fault. I left too long of tails on my square knot twine connections and the bill hooks got fouled with the tails. It's a learning experience.

The 575 is quite a gobbler. It took the 30 foot grain table windrow and never missed a beat. I was apprehensive at first about the 1/4 turn chute but I like it now. The bailer is way too productive to hitch a wagon to. No way our hay hands could keep up with it. The 575, from all I've read on the Internet (and I did some research because I don't like to be broken down in the field either) said the 575 was a kick butt bailer. It is.

We will see how it does in second cutting T/A this week. I have 3 contract fields down and raked to be bailed, tomorrow afternoon.

Finally, I don't miss checking bale tension as the day wears on and the RM drops. The hydraulic bale tension is fantastic, plus I can read the tension from inside the tractor cab.

 

[Cossack1917]

That is a pretty nice 14T. It even has some paint on it, indicative of being kept in the barn. Great for a small holding. You don't want to pull a 14T or a 66 Hayliner down the road very far. Both have plain insert bearings in the hubs..... (Don't ask how I know).

Never been a fan of the auger feed. I'm a finger person. Even Deere, in their new bailers have went to packer fingers.

I thought it looked like a deal. Would be tempted myself, but too many balers already. Sounds like it's an old farmer worrying about knives dulling in the rain, even when he's trying to sell it! With scrap iron going $260/ton, and at nearly 2 tons apiece, sounds like he's selling below scrap value. He might be better off selling the knotters and fingers and scrapping the rest. But on the other hand, I do hate to see pieces of American history melted down when they are still usable.

 

[5030]

....and go to China to come back and be sold at Walmart.