Buying Advice Looking to upgrade

[klmcbri]

Hello all! My husband and I are getting overwhelmed with a decision on an upgrade. We have 42 acres of land. 6 acres of pasture,12 acres of hay, 1 dry lot approx 3/4 acre. 125 x 215 grass arena. 60 x 120 indoor arena. 36 x 48 4 stall horse barn. Smaller original barn that stores some hay and the tractor, etc. Gravel driveway 2/10 mile long with a steep hill that we are always dragging the gravel that didn't wash over the hill back up to the top. Woods with trails that need some major maintenance. We currently own a 1940' era Ford 640 rated at 33HP according to Yesterday's tractor. We have a 5' bush hog, rarely used; 5' finish mower, we use this to mow the pastures now since they are flat and the yard. We also have a riding mower and push mower for dog lot. We have a 6' disc rarely used unless renovating pasture, box blade for gravel driveway, rear blade for moving snow, plow that has never been used. We should have the drag for the indoor in the next day or so that is a 6' ABI TR3 E series. We are upgrading the tractor due to the indoor arena. Our current tractor would handle the new drag but when you turn that tractor it digs up the ground with the front tires. I do not want to ruin the new footing in the arena. So we want a 4WD tractor of at least the same 33 HP. We have priced a Kubota L3301HST and we also got a quote for a JD 2032R. We want a FEL as at the moment we are at the mercy of waiting on someone else to do maintenance on our driveway as hauling gravel in the small dump bed of the lawn tractor is getting old. Been there done that. Tasks for said tractor: mowing pasture and yard, spraying hay fields, dragging arena, gravel maintenance.

I have a few questions...
1. What is the difference in the JD 2 family and 3 family? Both seem to offer a tractor in the HP we want. I was told by the Yanmar dealer to stay away from and JD "E" series.
2. Why would one want "filled tires". Is that necessary on a 4WD tractor? Someone mentioned it as getting that "thrown in" when negotiating.
3. So far the Kubota on initial quote is 2K cheaper. We looked at a Yanmar and that was a nice tractor but 8k more than Kubota. My custom hay farmer said that JD is more expensive out the door, but cheaper on maintenance and parts that Kubota. Does anyone else agree with that statement?
4. We have a former Kubota service person that now has a traveling repair maintenance service available to us.
5. Are tractors at all like cars where you can get the first 2 years of maintenance when purchasing new?
6. Kubota told us the cash price and financed price are the same? Have others found this to be true?
7. I suck at bargaining, to me it is a form of confrontation and I avoid it at all costs...any tips here would help.
8. What is the deal with this emissions stuff? Kubota even told me to stay away from their BX series.

Thanks!

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Bx is too small for you.
I found same price cash or credit, some will claim they get cash discount.
Kubota is a great tractor.
maintenance is hours based.
Filled tires gives more weight, you want that with FEL, front end loader.
And you want the FEL.

Contact barlows, in ky for a price. They ship anywhere. Or messicks in pa.

Goshen VA?

And Welcome to TBN!!!!!!!!

 

[ericm979]

Maintenance costs will be about the same for all tractors. The costs are for fluids and filters. It's actually pretty cheap even though the transmissions hold a lot of oil. There are on-line sellers of Kubota and Deere parts. Try pricing some typical parts for the tractors you're interested in.

I've never heard of a tractor dealer offering free maintenance. But some will have "free" pickup and delivery to do maintenance and repairs. It's not really free, they just roll it into higher purchase or repair prices. If you can change the oil in a car you can do it for a tractor. Quantities are larger but the process is the same.

Kubota has same price for cash and credit when I got quotes at the end of last year. But earlier they didn't. It depends on the promotions Kubota corporate is running at the time. Kubota financing goes through corporate.

 

[Tractorable]

I think you're well positioned to get what you need to maintain your 42 acres. I would keep your Ford 640 and get a new 4WD Compact Utility Tractor with loader. Having two tractors around that sized property will be very handy. To minimize the damage the front tires on the 640 do replace them with a set of car tires. It'll be good to keep the mower hooked up to the Ford and do everything else with the new CUT.

Kubota, Yanmar, and John Deere are all top quality tractors. Both Kubota and John Deere produce an economy line of tractors which is the L2501/3301/3901/4701 and the John Deere E series. The higher end Kubota's are the Grand L series and the John Deere M and R series. The new Yanmar YT235/347 would be considered higher end based on their features.

Both Kubota and Yanmar are Japanese companies that build everything on the tractor from the wheels up. John Deere uses Yanmar engines.

It'd be a good idea to get a feel for what size tractor you need first. The widths of the L3301 and YT235 are about 5ft. The widths of the larger frame tractors like the Kubota L4701, MX4800, and Yanmar YT347 are about 6ft. Cut a board to about 7ft length and see how it'll fit in your barns and through your gates. Assess whether a 5ft wide or 6ft wide tractor would work better for you.

Also, consider whether you want to get a mower that's larger than 5ft. If so, you'll want a tractor with minimum 30 PTO horsepower and enough weight to handle it.

 

[BMan2005]

I think you're well positioned to get what you need to maintain your 42 acres. I would keep your Ford 640 and get a new 4WD Compact Utility Tractor with loader. Having two tractors around that sized property will be very handy. To minimize the damage the front tires on the 640 do replace them with a set of car tires. It'll be good to keep the mower hooked up to the Ford and do everything else with the new CUT.

Kubota, Yanmar, and John Deere are all top quality tractors. Both Kubota and John Deere produce an economy line of tractors which is the L2501/3301/3901/4701 and the John Deere E series. The higher end Kubota's are the Grand L series and the John Deere M and R series. The new Yanmar YT235/347 would be considered higher end based on their features.

Both Kubota and Yanmar are Japanese companies that build everything on the tractor from the wheels up. John Deere uses Yanmar engines.

It'd be a good idea to get a feel for what size tractor you need first. The widths of the L3301 and YT235 are about 5ft. The widths of the larger frame tractors like the Kubota L4701, MX4800, and Yanmar YT347 are about 6ft. Cut a board to about 7ft length and see how it'll fit in your barns and through your gates. Assess whether a 5ft wide or 6ft wide tractor would work better for you.

Also, consider whether you want to get a mower that's larger than 5ft. If so, you'll want a tractor with minimum 30 PTO horsepower and enough weight to handle it.

I agree with this post. If feasible keep the Ford and buy a bigger Utility tractor. We just did this, kept our 32hp Kubota for the smaller jobs and dedicating it as our mower. I'm going to replace the Rear Ag tires with R3 or R4's and matching set up front or truck tires still debating. The 3 rib fronts will cut badly if you turn without taking it very easy.

 

[klmcbri]

Bx is too small for you.
I found same price cash or credit, some will claim they get cash discount.
Kubota is a great tractor.
maintenance is hours based.
Filled tires gives more weight, you want that with FEL, front end loader.
And you want the FEL.

Contact barlows, in ky for a price. They ship anywhere. Or messicks in pa.

Goshen VA?

And Welcome to TBN!!!!!!!!

Goshen, OH East of Cincinnati.

 

[klmcbri]

Thanks everyone for the tips. I am going test driving tractors today. One dealer has NH and Kubota and then over to JD. Hope to make a decision this weekend. I posed the idea of keeping the Ford to hubby, he's not too keen on having to store both tractors. I do see the value in not having to switch implements as often. Heck my neighbor has at least 4 tractors, a skid loader,and a back hoe. I try to make sure he hooks the pull behind mower back on it when he uses another attachment as it's a bear for me to do on my own on the 640. I looked at the "telescopic stabilizers" on the Kubota and I think that would be very helpful and it's a $175 option that would be worth it.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I have 2 tractors on 5 acres, plus lawnmower. Id keep the 640.

Dad has a farm in east ohio, he has 3 tractors, one is a 640.

 

[Tractorable]

Honestly, the 640 isn't worth that much and it's a good gear-driven tractor for mowing on your 42 acres. You'd be ahead just keeping it. With three out buildings you shouldn't have trouble finding a spot to park it.

Tell us about the tractor shopping you did today!

 

[buckeyefarmer]

My old neighbor had a tractor for every implement.

 

[klmcbri]

Ok so here is the progress from my Friday test driving....
I went to a dealer that sold Kubota and New Holland. He instantly steered me toward the Kubota didn't even talk New Holland. I drove the L3301 HST and the L3901 gear driven. I wanted to see if the cheaper gear drive might be an option since most of what we do is mowing and arena maintenance. Put it in gear and go as opposed to holding the HST pedal down for 3 hours while mowing. I drove it on a paved rode and did some bucket maneuvers in the parking lot. Seemed like it fit OK. The HST pedal is a little big for my feet had to move forward and back on the pedal. Sure I can get used to it. Probably go with the HST but thinking about adding cruise control.
Then went to JD and he did not have a 2032R that was set up so drove the 3033R, that was a bit of a stretch for me with the suspension seat. Had to schooch forward in the seat the press the pedal down even with the seat slid all the way forward. Then just for giggles drove the 1025e. Size wise it fir better but too small for my purposes. At the end he found a 2032R that was not "set up" yet that I sat in and was able to press the pedals all the way down. So I came home a bit confused.
We are leaning toward the Kubota as it is heavier, can lift more.
I got quotes from several dealers, why is the price of the loader different from each. As in $3800, $4200, $4600. I requested the SSQA LA525 loader. There are 2 sizes but I think the size difference is for SSQA vs "standard" attach and that there is only one size for the SSQA as in 66"? Am I understanding that right?
Any opinions on the cruise control? It comes standard on the JD but is a $205 parts + $295 install(3.5 shop hours) = $500 (per most expensive loader dealer)
Same dealer quoted $350 to fill the rear tires. May see if I can get a quote to do it later as I think when using the loader we will have the boxblade on the back, would that suffice for enough ballast weight to counter balance the material and loader on the front end?
We originally requested telescopic lower links but I think we can remove that and go with the Pat's quick hitch system for $169. One dealer tried to get us to have the Land Pride quick hitch as our second implement but we only have one attachment that we know for sure is compatible.
Hubby wants me to figure out what the "adjustable right lower link" is technically called and ask about a price for that as the standard turnbuckle will be a hassle when using the boxblade (currently on the Ford 640 he can adjust that from the seat it has a turn handle thing) or the sprayer when trying to get to the last little bit of liquid or rinsing.

So our 3 prices are $23,405, $22500, $22050.

Trying to stay as close to $20,000 as possible. Thoughts?

 

[BMan2005]

Don't settle if you are unsure, go drive some more! Find a NH dealer or tell him you want to look at some, Massey Ferguson has some nice tractors as well! There are also LS, Mahindra, and Kioti if you have a dealer close by. I just finished doing this and drove all of them except LS and Kioti, I bought a NH. Everything about the tractor from steering, fit, and control layout was what I wanted. Also, be sure you like the dealer as much as the tractor you buy.

BTW, you can't go wrong with Kubota if that's what you are leaning towards.