No marks on the rim here, just the stripe on the bolts. All in the same direction. If one moves it would be out of sync, easy to spot. I do look at them often. Guess I should really wind up the torque wrench though.
Good reminder for us all. When delivered, mine were torqued, BUT after a few hours I retorqued again, and at 25 hours again, and at 50 a couple were not in spec again. I don't think they have moved since. It can take a while for the paint to wear in etc. It is just part of tractor ownership to torque the nuts. Tractors live a pretty rough life if you think about some of the things we do with them.
Manual should state to retorque. I’ve seen anything from 10 hours to 50 hours but wheels do need to be retightened after put to use. Cone type nuts need to be checked the most because the cone angles are never precise enough for perfect engagement. Reversals work the metal to match but result in no longer meeting the torque spec. All vehicles I have owned for ages have flat had flat on flat with a tight center pilot.
I recently checked mine, 2700 hours. Never off since I have owned. Both front and rears have centers that bolt to the rim, then bolt to axle. All were OK, except the center to axle for the rears, most bolts took about 1/8 turn to make torque spec.
For the 1st 9 years mine never budged. Yearly I would check them. Last winter both of my rear tires were loose. One wheel was damaged while the other just showed signs of starting to move. They aren't tapered nuts like a car would have, just a lock washer under a regular bolt (with two studs on each side). After they loosened up no amount of torque seamed to want to keep them tight. Since the axle flange is flat on the backside I bought new bolts that were longer and put a second nut on the inside and a thick washer between the lock washer and wheel. Since doing that they haven't loosened up. I was prepared to replace the center disc on both wheels but since neither is moving I haven't.