3-Point Hitch Loss of 3 point down pressure ????

[TexanHogman]

Recently after a hard rocky weekend using my box blade on my 4410, I noticed that my three point hitch no longer has down pressure. Without an implement I am no able to lift the drawbars by hand. The system works fine lifting the implements. Can anyone point me towards the problem part?

Thanks
Rick

 

[Glenn9643]

Somewhere between your ears.
If you have a John Deere you never had down pressure with your 3PH. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[trlong]

Rick,

First, welcome to the forum!

I'm a bit confused (not uncommon), by two things you say. It may just be a matter of terminology and misunderstanding what you are saying.

<font color="blue"> </font><font color="blueclass=small">( ...I noticed that my three point hitch no longer has down pressure.)</font> </font>

And <font color="blue"> </font><font color="blueclass=small">( ...I am no able to lift the drawbars by hand. )</font></font>

1st; To my limited knowledge, there is no significant "down pressure" on a 3ph (at least not on a CAT 1 like mine). The down pressure (to lower the 3ph and implement) comes almost entirely from the weight of the implement attached. Without an implement, the weight of the draft and lift links exerts only minimal "down pressure". With my "Drop/Lock Valve" set to lower implements slowly, I often have to push down on the draft links to drop them.

2nd; Do you mean the "draft links" (i.e. lower arms)? I assume so from your description.

Do you have a "Drop/Lock Valve" that adjusts the speed at which implements are lowered? If so, could it somehow have been closed? I'm not sure that would actually impede lifting the draft links by hand...never tried it. It will cause over heating of the hydraulic oil if it is locked while lifting implements, and I would think it would take a very long time to lower an implement (basically requiring "leakdown"). Other than that, I am sorry I can't think of anything that would require too much force to lift the draft links, if the system seems to work well with implements attached.

Tom

P.S.[Don't take Glenn's reply too seriously. I'm sure he meant it as a quip, not an insult to a new member]

 

[TexanHogman]

>>>Somewhere between your ears.

Glenn, I actually thought that might be the case and I'm fine with that as long as the tractor's ok.

Thanks
Rick

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> I'm fine with that as long as the tractor's ok </font>
Then you are fine. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
The only tractor in production today that I know of that has downpressure is a Belarus from Russia.

 

[TexanHogman]

Thanks Tom for the reply and for the welcome. I obviously am a bit delusional here.

>>1st; To my limited knowledge, there is no significant "down pressure" on a 3ph

Well that is good news since that means there is nothing to fix. Just seems that my box blade used to stay in better contact with the ground than it does now. Maybe I didn't really mean "down pressure" but rather resistent to moving back up on it's own.

>>2nd; Do you mean the "draft links"

Yes I did -- bit new to this terminology.

All your points make good sense but that does leave me with one remaining question. The draft links have pins with reversible inserts that either lock them to the risers or allow them to float several inches before making contact. The manual states an implement that should stay in contact with the ground (box blade) should be in the locked position. What good is this if the draft links lift right up?

Thanks again for your reply

Rick

 

[trlong]

<font color="blue"></font><font color="blue" class="small">( The draft links have pins with reversible inserts that either lock them to the risers or allow them to float several inches before making contact.)</font> </font>

Rick,

There is apparently something different with your lift links to draft links connection, as compared to mine. There are no reversible inserts for locking or floating on mine. So, I'm afraid I can't help you with that. It would help if you explained what model tractor you are dealing with and, if possible, post a picture or two of the reversable insert connections. It is likely that some one with knowledge of this style connection could be more helpful.

As for the float <font color="blue">("What good is this if the draft links lift right up?") </font>, I would guess that this would be useful for such as a rear mower, brush hog, rear mount snowblower... I run a front mount snow blower. When clearing, the SCV should be in the "float" position, allowing it to slide on it's skids while "floating" on an uneven surface. Similarly, it is best for a rear mount mower to have some "float" on other than perfectly flat lawns.

As for the box blade not digging in as it had before your long day's work with it, is it possible your toplink needs re-adjusting to set it back at the same level/angle it had been when you started? Is the lock nut on the toplink still tight? I'd check that all adjustments on the 3ph and any on the box blade, itself, are still snug and adjusted as they had been. I don't have a box blade. So, those with experience with them could jump in here and offer their expertise.

Good luck,

Tom

 

[trlong]

Oops. Sorry Rick, forgot you had said it's a 4410 /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Glenn9643]

My apologies for the remark last night. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I believe I spent too much time with Mr. Dickel.

 

[andrewj]

biggest mistake i made is to put the pins in the float position with a chisel plow or box blade...waste of time, fuel, and my life...keep it locked, the float is a waste. using float lets the implement ride up over rocks, bumps, etc. locking it makes the bump tackle not onlyth eweight of the implemetn, but the slow bleed of the hydraulics.