Lower Control arm pins

[Doc_Bob]

Until recently, I never really thought about where I should place the pins on my lower control arms. Then, one day, I mounted a new implement (snow blower) on the lower control arms, inserted the lower control arm pins in the holes that have no "wiggle". Drove around, operated the snow blower, checked balance and generally had a great time. Then the trouble started. When I tried to get the lower control arms off, the pins were so tight, they would not come out. Stuck!! Pinched so tight I could not get them to slide free to allow the control arms to spread wide and come off the lower control arms supports and release the implement. After an hour, I finally got them off and was able to release the implement. Now, this is my question.

Should I use the holes on the lower control arms that are long and oblong? These holes allow some movement side to side of the implement. Is this bad thing? Implement specific?

Bob


Here I am pointing to the oblong hole that has some "wiggle".


Here I am pointing to the hole that has no wiggle.

 

[AndyMA]

Bob I almost always use one with no movement on one side and the "sliding" one on the other side. That way the implement has no slack, yet you can get the pins out when you loosen the tensionsers.

Andy

 

[Doc_Bob]

Bob I almost always use one with no movement on one side and the "sliding" one on the other side. That way the implement has no slack, yet you can get the pins out when you loosen the tensionsers.

Andy

Sounds like great advice. Have you ever had the problem I described?
Bob

 

[AndyMA]

Bob I've been using tractors for over 40 years. Yep, I've had plenty of stuck pins. lol Andy

 

[Doc_Bob]

Bob I've been using tractors for over 40 years. Yep, I've had plenty of stuck pins. lol Andy

Thanks! I had the feeling I was the only one.
Bob

 

[jbrumberg]

Doc_Bob:

I agree with AndyMA. I have had stuck pins too. A hand sledgehammer, crowbar/straightbar come in handy sometimes. I have found that releasing the top link pin first sometimes reduces the "tension" on the lower link pins after blocking up the attachment. Jay

 

[browns40]

Hi Doc,

LOL, 1st times special isn't it?

I don't own any offset equipment, so I compulsively assure the pins are in the same holes... unnecessary worry about tweaking arms probably...

Only time this happened to me, I pinned the spacing prior to hooking up the box blade... it went in snug to start...

Usually there is enough room on the arms to leave a fairly good space between the "sides", or side & pin... I hook them up, lift the implement, and swing it centered, pin one in, then the other... there is always wiggle room to get the 2nd pin in, then they usually come out.

I keep a 1# hammer on the tractor for miscellaneous tapping, which these needed once in a while.

I also grease up the slides & pins to assist in the process.

 

[jimmysisson]

Should I use the holes on the lower control arms that are long and oblong? These holes allow some movement side to side of the implement. Is this bad thing? Implement specific?
***********
Mine has turnbuckles, which had made me envious of the pin-type, though now I can see some virtue in the adjustability. I always leave a little slack for when the implement rotates at an angle to the tractor (one side higher).
Jim

 

[Birdman253]

Should I use the holes on the lower control arms that are long and oblong? These holes allow some movement side to side of the implement. Is this bad thing? Implement specific?

Bob


It doesn't matter. Use either one, but when you hook up, you should "rock" the implement side to side. There should be a little slack. If the implement will not move any at all, the sway adjustment is too tight.

 

[3RRL]

My implements have different lift pin widths. I always set my stabilizer bars before hooking up the implement contrary to what browns40 does. This eliminates wrestling with the stabilizer bars under tension. I can do this primarily because I have PEC (Pat's Easy Change System). I don't have to line up and slide the drag links over the lift pins and it makes a world of difference. It also centers the implement pretty much automatically so I'm not pushing it around either.

Upon removing the implement, I release the system and remove the implement by lowering the drag links (lower lift arms) below the lift pins. Now, once again, there is no tension on the stabilizer bars. When hooking up implements with the same lift pin spacing, I don't even have to touch the stabilizers. Those 2 factors, adjusting the stabilizers after mounting the implement and messing with trying to get the drag links over the lift pins (every single time) were enough to make the purchase worth while. BTW Doc, my stabilizers are the same design as yours.

 

[PineRidge]

Until recently, I never really thought about where I should place the pins on my lower control arms. Then, one day, I mounted a new implement (snow blower) on the lower control arms, inserted the lower control arm pins in the holes that have no "wiggle". Drove around, operated the snow blower, checked balance and generally had a great time. Then the trouble started. When I tried to get the lower control arms off, the pins were so tight, they would not come out. Stuck!! Pinched so tight I could not get them to slide free to allow the control arms to spread wide and come off the lower control arms supports and release the implement. After an hour, I finally got them off and was able to release the implement. Now, this is my question.

Should I use the holes on the lower control arms that are long and oblong? These holes allow some movement side to side of the implement. Is this bad thing? Implement specific?

Bob


Here I am pointing to the oblong hole that has some "wiggle".
View attachment 62521

Here I am pointing to the hole that has no wiggle.

View attachment 62522

Guess everyone has their own way of doing things.

Once the implement is connected to the 3-point I slightly raise the implement, center the load from side to side, and drop the 1st pin in. I then rock the implement to the opposite side and drop in the second pin so there is little or no side-to-side movement.

To remove the pins leave the implement in the air and as you rock it from side to side pull one of the two pins, the second will come out easier than the first.

 

[daTeacha]

That's exactly what I do and it works well. The B7100 had turnbuckles on each side with a locking nut. I've seen many smaller tractors with that arrangement, and wasn't real sure I'd like the pin in hole style when I was tractor shopping. Now, I wouldn't trade back. Some of my stuff has non-standard pin widths, but you can still get things to fit if you don't think you need to use the same hole on each side, or are willing to use an oblong hole on one side.

 

[Doc_Bob]

To remove the pins leave the implement in the air and as you rock it from side to side pull one of the two pins, the second will come out easier than the first.

Thanks, I tried it for a quite awhile doing exactly what you said, but it was just right and stuck so tight with neither pin wanting to budge.
Bob

 

[PineRidge]

Thanks, I tried it for a quite awhile doing exactly what you said, but it was just right and stuck so tight with neither pin wanting to budge.
Bob

Did you try a BFH Bob?

 

[Doc_Bob]

Did you try a BFH Bob?

Big F### Hammer? Yes, and it loosened the pins but did not dislodge the suckers. They were "welded" in place by the pressure. I was embarrassed!
Bob

PS I had to ask my wife for help! Feel my pain!

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks, I tried it for a quite awhile doing exactly what you said, but it was just right and stuck so tight with neither pin wanting to budge.
Bob

Don't sweat it. 3pt and/or tractor hitch hook ups are deffinately one of those tasks that you just get better at over time., and take time to get better at.

When I first bought a 5' mower.. it took me the better part of 15 minutes to keep backing up getitng things lined up and getting it hitched... that eventually worked it's way down, as I learned to bacup better, learned where to put the arms.. learned where to park the mower in the first place.. how to crib it up, safe but effective use of various prying and pounding instruments.. and now it's under a minute..

I can now back in and hitch my 10' mower in almost the same time.. and no prying or pounding helps.. the mower weights close to 3k#.. so you just have to hit it straight and leave it straight when you park.

I'm sure the same applies to those with quick attach loaders, and mid mount mowers... First time you take it off/on is the longest. Fast forward a few years and it is a piece of cake..

Like I said.. don't sweat it... You will either get good at doing it, or you will get good at finding a way to do it.


Soundguy