LS SAYS A REGEN EVERY 2 HOURS IS NORMAL (Update) 600hrs, 50 regens

[FERLING]

Try out running at 1500 rpm average and time it. Then run up near 2000 rpm and time it. See if there is a noticeable difference.
Workmaster 50, 60, 70 New Hollands have auto regenerations. I don't understand why LS and others don't use the same. Why would someone buy a tractor that requires you to stop every so many hours when other manufactures don't?

 

[Rc4510]

you dont have to stop work w/LS,its better if you do keep it working and keep exhaust hot but you dont have to.the regen will carry on next time you start working and engine is up to temp.

 

[sd455dan]

You're saying your XR4046 regens every 4 hours? For 32 minutes each time? That's horrible.

This short mean time before regen, will burn a significant amount more diesel over the service life of the tractor regardless of how clean the exhaust output is...

No way I would even consider a new LS if they stand by that regen timing.

Agree that's Horrible

It would be telling if the ACTUAL diesel use per hour of engine run time was in their sales brochure using the 2 hour regen interval.
It would have to be more of a fuel HOG than most other similar HP tractors in its class.

 

[shooterdon]

Mine seems to regen about every 50 hours and it lasts about 20 minutes. I can live with that. I do not stop working when it regenerates so the bit of extra fuel is not totally wasted.
But I put on less than 100 hours a year. So a regen every 4-6 months is acceptable. If I was clocking 100 hours a month, I might feel differently.

 

[ljjhouser]

RobertEH
Congratulations on the tractor. Welcome to TBN.
You may already know this by now, but just in case. Tier 4 regen depends on the heat generated by the engine to burn off particulates. Most dealers, including mine, tell us to run and use our tractors at high or full rpm, permitting more heat and burn off, thus delaying regen.
When I first bought my tractor, was determined to "Baby it" until the dealer told me it was better on the engine to run it at higher rpms or full rpms.
Also, is your LS hydrostat? I was also told it is better to run the hst at more pedal to better circulate the trans oil (cooler). Meaning lower gear - more pedal when there is a choice. Don't know if that is very clear.

Of course, ALWAYS check with your LS dealer - he should be glad to give you operation advice. Doing that is ALWAYS a good idea. And I own a different brand, so have a short talk with your dealer. Best Wishes.

 

[ljjhouser]

Mine seems to regen about every 50 hours and it lasts about 20 minutes. I can live with that. I do not stop working when it regenerates so the bit of extra fuel is not totally wasted.
But I put on less than 100 hours a year. So a regen every 4-6 months is acceptable. If I was clocking 100 hours a month, I might feel differently.

This is pretty much EXACTLY my experience and timing with REGEN. Great post, lots of info and clear. Thanks

 

[Midniteoyl]

Brand new Tractor owner here. I picked up an LS MT235HE last month and so far I am having a blast! My first regen cycle was at about 23 hours.

So far I have no implements that use a PTO so I have been keeping my RMPs as low as possible/needed. Generally I work at idle, or around 1500 RPM. Will this create more Regen cycles than operating at higher RPMs would? (e.g. does operating at lower RMPs not generate the engine temperatures needed to burn off soot during normal operation)? Would it be advisable to run the engine up around 2500 RPM for a few minutes every time I have it out to burn off soot?

On my Kioti, idle is around 1100rpm normally, but I run it up to 1400-1500rpm for normal put-putting around use and then use the linked-pedal feature, on advice from others, including 2 dealers.

 

[RobertEH]

RobertEH
Congratulations on the tractor. Welcome to TBN.
You may already know this by now, but just in case. Tier 4 regen depends on the heat generated by the engine to burn off particulates. Most dealers, including mine, tell us to run and use our tractors at high or full rpm, permitting more heat and burn off, thus delaying regen.
When I first bought my tractor, was determined to "Baby it" until the dealer told me it was better on the engine to run it at higher rpms or full rpms.
Also, is your LS hydrostat? I was also told it is better to run the hst at more pedal to better circulate the trans oil (cooler). Meaning lower gear - more pedal when there is a choice. Don't know if that is very clear.

Of course, ALWAYS check with your LS dealer - he should be glad to give you operation advice. Doing that is ALWAYS a good idea. And I own a different brand, so have a short talk with your dealer. Best Wishes.

This is very helpful! I will be taking my tractor in to have rear remotes installed in a few weeks so I will verify this when I drop it off. I too have been babying it.

Mine is a hydrostat. When you say run it at "more pedal" do you mean full petal down? e.g. better to run full pedal down at a lower gear, than half pedal down at a higher gear?

 

[ljjhouser]

RobertEH
Put the gear selector (low. medium, High) in the gear you need for the job you want to do. You are correct. For example, if you are using the loader to move gravel, you could use the medium gear, but you would have to use very little pedal while working, and as a result, would not have the power you need some of the time. And while you are working, the trans. would move in and out of low gear. (always use the low gear doing loader work.) On the other hand, just run it in low gear and use more pedal to move and add power, all in low gear. If you were driving it on the road and needed more speed, then use high gear and the transmission will shift from low, med, to high as you speed up. And because of operating with more speed you will use increased pedal to travel.

I was told that operating with lower gear and more pedal circulates a lot more hydraulic oil and the trans. runs cooler as a result. Even if you are on the road in high gear, you will use mostly pedal down to gain the speed you want. Your second statement is correct.

Another comment. I drove a truck (readymix and tanker) for many years. A gasoline engine does better adding power at low rpms (called lugging the engine) than a diesel engine. The power envelope on a diesel really begins at higher rpms. We had a rule - never lug a diesel engine. Just something to think about.

I wish I had rear remotes. I use a box blade a lot. You will like the remotes, especially if you want to add a hydraulic top link. Best Wishes, Larry

 

[RobertEH]

Thanks again for the helpful info. this is a whole new world for me.

I recently moved to Northern Idaho and I was not ready for the amount of snow (we got 6 feet las season). I worked my ATV hard all winter to keep my 250 yards of sloped driveway clear and my neighbors had to assist me 2 times - I don't mind getting help from time to time but I refuse to be the guy everyone has to bail out! Much prefer to be the one who helps others out.

My primary goal is to add a blower to the front so when I got the tractor I added a mid PTO and 3rd function (and ordered the rear remotes as they were not in stock). For the next season the loader and a blade will need to suffice. Blower is another season out but I will get there. Hydraulic top link is def. on my list as well.

Sorry for the thread hijack! Was very interested in a way to minimize regens. I was also under the impression one had to stop work to do the regen so it is nice to know that you can continue along while it does its thing.

 

[PCABE5]

Sorry for the thread hijack! Was very interested in a way to minimize regens. I was also under the impression one had to stop work to do the regen so it is nice to know that you can continue along while it does its thing.

I wouldn't worry too much about that the thread was already hijacked when posters started comparing older LS regens to newer models. Two completely different regen systems used.

I cannot agree with all the advice given to you as a lot of "I was told" statements don't match reality or the technical manual. Use your tractor and let the ECM manage the rest.


Here is a good OEM video explaining regens. Remember engine load will equate to higher exhaust gas temperature (EGT) and passive regens can happen.

 

[Cycledude]

Please Read your owners manual

 

[ljjhouser]

Talk with the dealer and check the owners manual, again, is great advice. That is an interesting video. I tend to rely on information from my dealer.
However, that said, below is a direct quote from my Kubota's operation manual relating the dpf filter. But it is not JD or LS, which may differ. This is from page 20 under the "operating the engine" section.

B Tips on Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) Regeneration A Operation
The higher in speed or load the engine operates, the higher the exhaust temperature rises. As a result, particulate matter (PM) inside the DPF is consumed, therefore the regeneration process is required less frequently over time. The lower in speed or load the engine operates, the lower the exhaust temperature. Accordingly, less particulate matter (PM) inside the DPF is consumed, therefore more accumulation of PM will occur, which requires frequent regeneration, therefore avoid prolonged idling if possible

 

[RobertEH]

Please Read your owners manual

I have indeed. cover to cover.

Being new to all this sometimes there are additional questions!

 

[RobertEH]

I wouldn't worry too much about that the thread was already hijacked when posters started comparing older LS regens to newer models. Two completely different regen systems used.

I cannot agree with all the advice given to you as a lot of "I was told" statements don't match reality or the technical manual. Use your tractor and let the ECM manage the rest.


Here is a good OEM video explaining regens. Remember engine load will equate to higher exhaust gas temperature (EGT) and passive regens can happen.

Very interesting video, thanks

I think that puts into context some of the other info I have come across. Thanks for posting

 

[Reddogs]

LS SAYS A REGEN EVERY 2 HOURS IS NORMAL

Here's my regen history, the best I have record of it. I'm sure I missed a few early on before I recognized there was a real problem and started keeping track. I have been having excessive regens almost since the tractor was purchased.

Dealership has been great at getting the tractor in for service and trying a few things, but unfortunately the problem has not been resolved. They called me yesterday after hearing back from LS and informed me that LS’ stance is that regeneration every 2 hours is normal. If regeneration is occurring more frequently than 2 hours apart, there could be an issue.

I find that unacceptable. I use the tractor at home, it is not a business machine, but based on an 8 hour work day, what should be a normal regen cycle of around 50 hours, would give me 6+ days between regens, and LS is telling me that 4 times per day is normal!

First some qualifying information.

• Tractor is run consistently between 1800 and 2400 RPM
• Always used on road diesel filled from high turnover stations in 5 gallon cans, I fill 2 or 3 cans, 10-15 gallons at a time, so there has been a lot of fuel turnover, not the same, or old fuel being used. Tried with and without fuel additive (Power Kleen or Howes) no change. At one point LS blamed fuel quality, but refused to test the fuel in the tank to prove it.
• DPF switch left in regeneration mode, I have never inhibited regeneration.

Occasionally before a regen, the DPF regeneration indicator will blink on/off at 1 sec intervals indicating a >120% soot load, then soon after it will go through a normal regen cycle without me needing to initiate it via the DPF switch. I have not kept a detailed record of when the indicator flashes before a regen, but I have noticed it several times (and I’m sure I missed it blinking a few times too.) Normally it seems to go right into regen mode (solid light) indicating 100% soot load, not >120%, but not always.

I’ve also had a few regens complete and then within 5 minutes the tractor goes into limp mode which a restart clears. That has happened maybe 3 times or so. I don’t recall what was displayed on the instrument panel other than the red ! (Vehicle control error warning indicator.)

Another thing I have noticed more recently, this may be indicative or not; I have noticed a much more pronounced diesel odor in the exhaust than in the past. While nothing like my previous non tier IV motor which was sooty, the MT240 used to burn extremely clean with no noticeable exhaust odor, now there is a diesel exhaust smell, not horrible, but definitely noticeable. Maybe now because it has 300 hours that is to be expected. There is no visible soot or black smoke, just a diesel odor that was not there previously. I may also hear injector or valve chatter that is louder then before as well.

Additionally there were a couple regens run at the dealership during troubleshooting and maintenance which I don't have listed below.

Regen time on hour meter, all regens completed successfully after ~15 minutes:

4 (ran by dealer due to error code, day after I brought it home)
101
106
112
115 (Dealership replaced DPF Sensor, removed and cleaned DPF)
118
119
148
165
175
187
191
197
213
224
234
250
254 (Dealership replaced ECU and DPF sensor. Invoice notes “REGEN OCCURRING TO OFTEN WITH NO SOOT LOAD”)
259 (In Dealership for service, ran diagnostic, nothing significant noted)
262
269
276
300
307

I'm looking for advice on how to move forward. First I need to be able to get the dealer to move forward since LS who is paying for the warranty work says this is NORMAL OPERATION.

Next I see 2 different paths.

1. DPF System has a fault
2. DPF system working normally, tractor producing too much soot

Comments?

I have the same issue with my Kubota and trying to find a solution. Running at higher RPMs seems to be helping, but still it's a real issue which many don't think is a concern..

 

[Cycledude]

I have indeed. cover to cover.

Being new to all this sometimes there are additional questions!

Yes and sometimes the owners manual adds to the confusion

 

[rademamj1]

I have the same issue with my Kubota and trying to find a solution. Running at higher RPMs seems to be helping, but still it's a real issue which many don't think is a concern..

If your having frequent short-period regens on a Kubota, and your running at high rpm, I recommend considering that one of your fuel injectors is providing excessive fuel. Kubota service can check with a laptop the condition of all your injectors...and provide you with a printout.

 

[Kioticrp]

I have an ongoing problem with the dpf and tractor going into manual regen mode every 2 hours which means I have to park it. Dealership has replaced injectors, not fixed, replaced turbo, not fixed, replaced dpf, not fixed, rebuilt engine, not fixed, reprogrammed computer, not fixed, replaced turbo again, not fixed. I would have someone reprogram your computer and delete the dpf. These tractors are garbage with it on. Do what you will with this advice but it will save you loads of frustration, stress and money.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

it's been 10 days, but I finally got an update after some prompting



Will post the outcome after the install and a bit of use.

Still waiting on that update.