Buying Advice LS vs New Holland Parts Availability

[Turbys_1700]

I would guess that NH made minor changes to the top on the newer T series and those are the ones they are trying to fit to the older TN series. That is assuming that they have no tops for the TN in inventory and don't make then anymore. That is the only logical explanation I have.

RickB is the NH/Ford guru on here and may have some insight.

 

[Trippy1313]

I will agree with you on parts availability. I've ordered some already and the longest I've had to wait is 5 days but usually less. I ordered a part from LS, one that NH doesn't use, and I waited 3+ weeks for it to come in.

Dealer location and reputation we're also deciding factors for me.

Now your financing part I cannot agree with. I bought my Boomer 40 in November and 0% was available from CNH but my credit union was the better option for overall cost. IMO CNH has a long way to go when it comes to financing.

Browsing through an old thread, I'm curious, how was your credit union a better overall cost option than 0%??? Not criticizing, I'm possibly in the market and want to make sure that I check my financial options as well. How did a credit union save more money than 0%???

 

[RickB]

Because 0% financing often makes a buyer ineligible for other discounts or incentives that "cash" buyers can get.

 

[PCABE5]

Browsing through an old thread, I'm curious, how was your credit union a better overall cost option than 0%??? Not criticizing, I'm possibly in the market and want to make sure that I check my financial options as well. How did a credit union save more money than 0%???

What RickB stated, if you lose a discount it has to be compared to overall costs of both options. Some advertise cash price, cash or your financing, and that isn't the same as the 0% price.

In addition, the funding fee was quite high, the admin fees, and there was a penalty for early payoff. All that added up to be a wash and by using my local credit union and paying off earlier ended up being cheaper. I'd always suggest to read the contract as it's all in there.

 

[Trippy1313]

What RickB stated, if you lose a discount it has to be compared to overall costs of both options. Some advertise cash price, cash or your financing, and that isn't the same as the 0% price.

In addition, the funding fee was quite high, the admin fees, and there was a penalty for early payoff. All that added up to be a wash and by using my local credit union and paying off earlier ended up being cheaper. I'd always suggest to read the contract as it's all in there.

Interesting. I usually find I'm a pretty savvy shopper, but hadn't really looked into that before. Great to know!!! I might start calling my credit union and see what they have going on before I start heading to the dealers.

 

[RickB]

The easy first step is to find out from your dealer what, if anything you give up when you change from a cash or outside financed del to the manufacturer's 0% financing.

 

[Bavarian]

I got quotes from Kubota and MF. First question from them was: cash or finance?
Our local JD dealer assured me, they would not make any difference. They, as a dealer don't care whom they get paid from.
No upcharge or price difference here.

 

[paulfun9]

I got quotes from Kubota and MF. First question from them was: cash or finance?
Our local JD dealer assured me, they would not make any difference. They, as a dealer don't care whom they get paid from.
No upcharge or price difference here.

local dealer gave that line to a friend and me, we both laughed in his face and left! Guess after several days he realized we were not biting on his bull crap line and called with a better cash price!