LX172 Restoration advice

[hslogger]

I recently acquired a rather derelict LX172 as a barn find. Hood of course toast. Couple tires flat. Bagger assembly intact. I drug it out and loaded it onto a trailer and hauled it home.
With some standard boy scout procedure I got the Kawasaki 14hp to run like a clock. New air filters, plug, oil filter and plug, gas filter, and clean non ethanol gas. Voila!
Wheels are rusted firm on the rear axle and so far all heating and Blaster to no avail. Front wheels are rusted on the spindles ditto.

I removed the deck and one spindle totally wallowed out. Housings are ugly. Blades rusted to death but with no sharpening wear on them at all. Frozen blade nuts. I ground the heads off and dropped the blades and will wire wheel the tension washers and the blades and sharpen them. I am going to replace both spindle assemblies and probably the idler and of course the belts. Other than the bottom rust it looks pretty good to me. I am not sure,looking at diagrams about plastic bushings that might be part of the deck assembly.

So, I am no stranger to JD mowers of merit, have a primo LX 178 and I took this project on for kicks. So far I don't think I am nutzo but won't know till I get the tire repaired and try to drive it, check out the transaxle and gears. My gut says this thing is gonna be ok... I hope. If the mechanics prove favorable, down the road I will spring for new hood, but not until I figure if this thing is going to be resurected in full.

So I am looking at a lot of deck parts, probably a new seat cushion for right now. In years past I would just go to the JD dealer and may well again, but I am tempted by some of these internet parts.
What do ya'll think about ordering brandX or OEM JD stuff on line and who do you recommend or NOT recommend. Thanks to you all.

 

[beenthere]

I don't have any online recommendations, but give it a shot.. you will find out what works for you. Might just be all worthwhile and you are good to go. On the other hand, not out much... Good luck with the project.

For me, rusted parts are treated with a new penetrating oil called Blue Creeper. Puts the Kroil and PB blaster to shame IMO.

https://www.bluecreeper.com/
Glad I found this stuff. Use it for rusted bolts, nuts, industrial sewing machine bushings, restore old guns, locks, hinges, and the list goes on adinfinitum. A small drop goes a long ways.

 

[Richard001]

Never heard of Blue creeper, but I have used Kroil for years and I like it. No matter what you use, use it generously and beat on it with a hammer several times a day. Give the penetrating oil a chance to work. I know that Kroil recommends the hammer thing, but never gave it a second thought until one time I had a really rusted nut that resisted all attempts to loosen. Applied kroil one last time and smacked it good a few times, then put the wrench to it, presto, came loose!

Richard

 

[hslogger]

Update on the LX172. One new seat cushion. Hair dry heat on full blast to re align the plastic piping that protects the cushion from the metal seat shell assembly. Two new spindle and bearing with pulley assemblies ala JD. New nylok nuts. One new rear tire, one new main drive belt from clutch to mower deck. Hooked it all up today and runs well, perfect.

The dash has two lights. One on the far left is battery, the other one doesn't go on, don't know what it is hooked to.
So far I have been able to remove both front wheels after soaking and soaking and soaking and heating between soaks. Finally, I just took the retainer clips off and drove it around in circles on gravel, and they came loose. Cup brush and emery paper cleaned up the spindles and back together.

Still can't remove the rear wheels. Still soaking and heating. Welded! So, once again, anyone know what the other light is for?
thanks.