Hardhead37
New member
The generator on my MF 165 appears to be charging backwards. Does anyone know how to fix this?
m f 165 ampmeter charging backwards
- Thread starter Hardhead37
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Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
tell us what changed.
is this a new machine to you?
does it use a generator or alternator?
did you recently remove and reinstall the battery?
did you recently rewire the battery, regulator or ammeter?
was the battery recently dead and recharged or jumped?
lots of possibilities here. usually tied to mismatch in polarity of the charge system to how the meter is wired.
post up the rest of the story.. there are pieces missing.
Is it actually showing negative charge.. or is it showing discharge from a non operating charge system, plus a load, thus making a discharge condition...
is this a new machine to you?
does it use a generator or alternator?
did you recently remove and reinstall the battery?
did you recently rewire the battery, regulator or ammeter?
was the battery recently dead and recharged or jumped?
lots of possibilities here. usually tied to mismatch in polarity of the charge system to how the meter is wired.
post up the rest of the story.. there are pieces missing.
Is it actually showing negative charge.. or is it showing discharge from a non operating charge system, plus a load, thus making a discharge condition...
George2615
Super Member
Welcome to TBN.............
Put a DC voltmeter on the battery when running and see if it's charging. It should read a voltage higher than the voltage read if it's not running. If it reads the same or less then the generator isn't charging and your amp or voltmeter on the dash is actually showing the discharge of the battery. Your regulator may be stuck or bad so I'd check that first before rebuilding the generator.
Put a DC voltmeter on the battery when running and see if it's charging. It should read a voltage higher than the voltage read if it's not running. If it reads the same or less then the generator isn't charging and your amp or voltmeter on the dash is actually showing the discharge of the battery. Your regulator may be stuck or bad so I'd check that first before rebuilding the generator.
Soundguy
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fill in the blanks for us.
generator or alternator? if alternator.. internal or external regulator?
plus the other questions i asked in my first post.
generator or alternator? if alternator.. internal or external regulator?
plus the other questions i asked in my first post.
buickanddeere
Super Member
There is "no I in team". There is no I in smug useless coworker.
the old grind
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'Discharge' will show on old-school amp gauge if the system isn't charging at all. It'll show battery drain.
"After all wiring is connected, momentarily connect a heavy jumper between BAT & GEN terminals on the regulator. (to polarize field coils) Be sure the battery is in good condition." - Clymer Publications
I do this whenever a battery is disconnected from one of the gen/reg-equipped HD bikes. ('75 Sportsters, '64 Panhead ...)
"After all wiring is connected, momentarily connect a heavy jumper between BAT & GEN terminals on the regulator. (to polarize field coils) Be sure the battery is in good condition." - Clymer Publications
I do this whenever a battery is disconnected from one of the gen/reg-equipped HD bikes. ('75 Sportsters, '64 Panhead ...)
Soundguy
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Every time a battery is disconnected?
You do realize the cutout 'disconnects' the battery every time you shut down!
the old grind
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SG, never thought of it exactly that way (thanks). Trickle vs pull in the off-season if a battery is installed. Admit I might have 'flashed' more times than necessary just to be sure, ... surely if charger or jumper clips were connected wrongly even for a sec. ("Thanks, pal! :irked: I can do my own. Here, go back in and have one on me ...")
Some of these sit for a year or three (much longer these days), some got brushes, rewired, etc. I've been riding the big twins mostly the last 35, and only replaced one voltage reg on the one I should've had out a week or so ago. :duh: ("Have tractor, been workin."
)
I&T manual ('MF-27', ~$30) ought to have the 165's gen & reg test procedures. Btw, my old Deere 1520 had a GM car alternator ('one wire') swapped onto it. Never thought it put out enough juice (low rpm on tractor vs car?) but I could work it for an hour or so and let it sit for a few weeks and it'd still fire up on 50% or so last year's gas. :confused3: PO must have thought the bone-yard was cheaper than the JD dealer.
Some of these sit for a year or three (much longer these days), some got brushes, rewired, etc. I've been riding the big twins mostly the last 35, and only replaced one voltage reg on the one I should've had out a week or so ago. :duh: ("Have tractor, been workin."
)I&T manual ('MF-27', ~$30) ought to have the 165's gen & reg test procedures. Btw, my old Deere 1520 had a GM car alternator ('one wire') swapped onto it. Never thought it put out enough juice (low rpm on tractor vs car?) but I could work it for an hour or so and let it sit for a few weeks and it'd still fire up on 50% or so last year's gas. :confused3: PO must have thought the bone-yard was cheaper than the JD dealer.
