M7040 cab glass door replacement tips.

   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #1  

roygage

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2011
Messages
168
Tractor
kubota L3000DT
Borrowed my 2010 M7040 to the local animal shelter, right next door to my acreage, only to have them clip a post with the drivers door. Good reason not to drive with the door open. Search online found one available through All States Ag parts.https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/kubota-m7040-cab-parts-glass-s/45224.htm

Turns out the place that actually had the part, A.I. Inc. was only 90 miles from my door in Rock Valley Iowa.
A&I Products

As I was making a trip past Rock Valley the following day I was able to pick it up at the A.&I warehouse located on highway 18 thus saving the freight. I might add that although A.&I. Has a nice online catalog they do not sell to the public or provide prices on their website.

Sunday morning I took the job on first setting up over a trash can with a cotter key puller picking the broken glass out of the weatherstripping, one lap around getting everything out then one more lap around to get what was missed the first time around.

Next I laid the glass down on the cardboard box it had came in and slipped the weatherstripping
into place. Pretty easy operation. Next up I transferred the hinges to the new glass after having pulled them off the cab. I might note that on the top of both hinge plates on the cab there is a nylon washer that supports the doors weight. These sit into place nicely but are equipped with small wings or so it seems as one only has to look at them and they fly off. A small dab of grease will hold them into place.

The lower hinge has the pull bar attached to it that you use to close the door. More on this later. All the attachment points have rubber gaskets to avoid metal to metal contact simply a matter of being certain everything goes back as it came off. After the hinges I transferred the latch assy. over.

Hinges snug but not tight tight my son helped me slip the door into place and put the pins through. I might add the circlips which hold the pins in place are also equipped with wings.

For some reason the outside door handle would not quite release the latch to open the door and I had to bend the rod that attached the handle to the latch slightly. Good thing I had not put the inside cover on while the door was on the ground I thought. At least that is what I thought until I attempted to put the latch cover back on.

Held in place by four small Phillips screws which are set back into recesses they are are hard to get a good grip on and tough to get back into place when the door is in the vertical position. I had to make a trip back into town to get new #1 Phillips screwdriver and strong magnet. With the screwdriver magnetized I was able to keep the screws on the drivers tip but was still unable to get the screwdriver to grip onto the screws well enough to turn them in.

Ended up filing a little off the tip of the screwdriver as the tip was bottoming before the sides of the driver could seat into the screw fully. In short it would be a good place for torx screws.

Disappointed that once the door was all mounted although it would shut the top edge of the door was contacting the cab about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch before the bottom. Yes, the door would shut but only after pushing rather hard which in turn flexed the glass enough to let it latch.

I saw no means of adjustment but did notice that the hand bar which runs from the lower hinge to the bottom forward corner of the glass was actually pushing the lower corner of the glass out and away from the cab.

I was able to pull the lower hinge bracket/door pull off the hinge and the lower door leaving only the upper hinge attached. Although afraid this might not work it did the door hanging nice while I played with the lower hinge plate and door pull. When the hinge end was pushed flat against a flat bench top the small single fastener end of it,some 2&1/2 feet downstream just contacted the bench top. This seemed right to me but playing with it when you tightened the two bolts on the hinge side it pulled the far,single fastener end, into the glass pushing it away.

Really wanted the job done. Drove the tractor into town where I had access to a good 6 inch vice and finally got the fat end of the assy. solidly in the vice where I could pull and tweak the door pull until it, the single fastener end, was standing away from the bench ½ to 5/8
an inch or so when the hinge end was pushed into the bench.

The last thing to tackle was bolt the hyd. door closer into place. Found it easiest to hook up the end which fastens to the tractor last. Shoved a large screwdriver under the plastic trim to let it stand away a bit then used a small chain hooked to one end of the cylinder and used a screwdriver through the chain and leveraged onto the other end of the cylinder to pry it partially closed which allowed me to get the bolt started straight.



Back on the tractor the door seated nice and even. I was happy with the quality of the door glass, tint looked right, good fit. Sure nice to have it back in service.
 
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   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #2  
I would have taken it to the Kubota dealer... and sent the borrower a bill.
 
   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #3  
Why don't you take it off again and reinstall it, this time sending pictures!
 
   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #4  
Broke both mine different times, turned into insurance and let the Kubota dealer install them. I don't know if it is me but they don't seem to have the solid seal like the factory ones did...
 
   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #5  
If the door is misaligned, have you considered tweaking or shimming the the hinges?
 
   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Eric. The door and hinges are fine. I think the pipe door handle simply got sprained when they clipped the post.

As to taking to a dealer, that in itself is quite a project as the tractor is heavier then I am comfortable hauling on my car trailer and the closest dealer is some distance away.

Also the animal shelter gal and the fellow operating it when the door was broken are both friends of mine and have both offered to pay. But, if the bill was another 400.00 that would simply be 400.00 the shelter would no longer have.

I would much prefer spend a Sunday morning working on my tractor to save the shelter 400 then spend a couple weekends up there counting pop cans to earn an equal amount.(-:
 
   / M7040 cab glass door replacement tips. #7  
If the door is misaligned, have you considered tweaking or shimming the the hinges?

Shouldn't be necessary. In the one instance mentioned earlier, the inside hand grab bar was bent (I can see that happening, as my gas spring mount was bent 45 degrees by the impact). A bent bar pushed or flexed the door out of proper alignment as the hardware was mounted.

I just replaced my door today on a B3350HSDC. I first installed the forward single screw mount for the inside grab handle, then the lower hinge at the other end of that handle, all screws just engaged to make sure the door was not going to be flexed by the handle. All fit perfectly, then I ran the hardware up just snug. Holes in glass were perfectly located and all fit nicely. There is slightly more outward bow in the door glass at the latch, to that gently pressure to latch pulls the top and bottom in snug. I'll do a post on the process and tool I made to remove glass from weatherstrip in a B3350HSDC thread.
 

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