Mahindra 2516 hydro toplink question.

manganos · Feb 4, 2010

I'm thinking about adding a hydro toplink and I do not have a rear remote at this time. Anyone use one on their Mahindra and how hard it is to install. I don't want to run a line from the loader...I want to tap into the hydro from the rear. I'm thinking once I get the rear remote I'll find more uses as time goes on.

MtnViewRanch · Feb 4, 2010

I can't help you out with what is needed to get your valve plumbed up as you want,(sorry) but I would suggest that when you do get around to it, install at least 2 valves if not 3. You never have enough remotes.

Exscriptor · Feb 21, 2010

I just finished adding a 2 spool valve, top link cyl and another cyl in place of the lifting arm turnbuckle on a 2615. Works fine. I can help with sources for parts and pictures if you want.

manganos · Feb 21, 2010

I would appreciate that!!! Thanks!

2007 mega · Mar 17, 2010

would like info also. just got my 2516hst last week and would like to have hyd in the back.

buck12 · Mar 17, 2010

Exscriptor said:
I just finished adding a 2 spool valve, top link cyl and another cyl in place of the lifting arm turnbuckle on a 2615. Works fine. I can help with sources for parts and pictures if you want.

Don't want to hijack the thread but what did it cost you. I would love to add this to my 2615.

Exscriptor · Mar 20, 2010

Total cost was about $850.00. I could have cut that back some, but remember I installed 2 cylinders, used 90 deg. hose end fittings where it would make connecting to the new control valve easier and look better. I had to get the lower link cylinder ends changed, so I had to pay a welder. However, if you shop carefully, you can get some better pricing, as I have found a few better deals on some of the parts since I bought mine. If you do a lot of work with your tractor, the cost is well worth it. I am glad I did the modifications and added this to my 2615.

darmstrong2319 · Mar 21, 2010

I had Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply do my hyd top link and 2 spool for backhoe attachment. I think he was going to make up a kit for the 2615. I am very happy with the setup

diggerman47 · Mar 21, 2010

Exscriptor said:
I just finished adding a 2 spool valve, top link cyl and another cyl in place of the lifting arm turnbuckle on a 2615. Works fine. I can help with sources for parts and pictures if you want.

Yes, me, too! Can you post the pics here in this thread? Thanks.

Exscriptor · Apr 17, 2010

Here are a few quick photos of my 2615 HST with FEL. I'll post some better ones soon with more details.

AchingBack · Apr 19, 2010

Looks great, Exscriptor. One question, what is the long tube sticking up on the tilt cylinder?

Exscriptor · Jan 28, 2011

The tube is a level guage to let me know when the lifting arms are back at level, or parallel with the tractor wheels. I used an inner rod attached to the end of the cylinder, and the 3/8" steel tube attached to the cylinder body. Same idea as the bucket level guage on the font end loader. Very accurate; only drawback was you have to keep looking over your right shoulder to look at the guage when bringing the lifting arms back to a level position. I replaced it a few months ago with a different indicator, using a stock 48" lawn mower throttle cable that attaches to a 'sled' on a single 3/8" s.s.rod, and is positioned in the draft control lever slot on the right side of the seat. ( I don't have any need for the draft control and don't plan to use it for that purpose) It was a challenge to get it to work with no interference to other things taking up space under the right side cover and above the rear axle, but it eventually worked out fine. Much easier to look down on my side and see where my lifting arm is positioned.

Traymar73 · Jan 29, 2011

Exscriptor that set up looks awesome . I have a 3215 and would like to do the same. Where did you get the supply for the hydros, I'm guessing from the distribution block. Could you highlight the plumbing. The welding looks pretty straight foreword. What advantages have you found most useful after the upgrade?

2007 mega · Jan 31, 2011

I bought a kit from my dealer for My 2010 2516 HST. It took a couple of hours to install. Everything bolted up fine and like the directions say , You have to remove the fender. Cost was around $600.00 and included everything I needed.

Exscriptor · Feb 8, 2011

If you are going to add remotes to your 3215, I would suggest you purchase your components from online or local sources versus getting the remote kit from your dealer. Way cheaper, and you can add a 2-spool valve instead of one. When adding the second control valve, you feed it thru the Power Beyond port of the first control valve (you cannot place a 'T' fitting in the incoming hydraulic line from the hydraulic block). Most of the manufacturers, such as Prince, have diagrams on their websites showing the proper plumbing configurations.
Advantages? I can hook up any piece of equipment to my 3-point hitch without wasting time or hasseling to line the top link up. Very quick. Biggest advantage is when using the boxblade or scraper: I can adjust the cutting angle with the toplink cylinder on the go. With a boxblade, this is a huge advantage, as this effects how deep you can remove the surface dirt, gravel etc, or just smooth it for a final grade by adjusting it in the opposite direction. In addition, by being able to adjust the horizontal tilt, you can maintain a crown in gravel driveways, which is critical to keeping erosion from washing away across a flat driveway. There are many other uses for this add-on; you will find many other small advantages as you use your equipment. Is it worth the money? I'm convinced it is.
I'll post more pictures in a few days highlighting the plumbing to the second control valve and a few other details.