Mahindra emax22

[Sergeant Rex]

My tractor died while pulling up small roots in my lawn. Would only turn over not start. Replaced fuel filter,,,(only 200hrs on out of warranty i think its a 2014 or 16),,,it had good diesel in it. Never had problem in over a year of ownership. Ran down battery trying to restart. Put battery charger on low 2amp slow charge,,,,,went out later and battery overpressure resulted in leak around top seal. Replaced battery with new one. This model has 4 wires with copper circular ends that a bolt goes through as well as the negative battery cable to the inside of frame near the front of the frame where the battery sits. They were dirty and when I took them off to clean them to assure myself a good ground the very thin connectors on the ends broke off,,,,,put new negative battery cable on and decided to clean and wind the tips of the 4 ground wires together, flux and solder (with acid core solder) into a round end copper tip having a reservoir tip which I soldered the wires into. I shinned up the frame around the bolt hole and secured them as well as the new negative battery cable to the frame with the stock bolt after it was shinned up on my table top powered wire wheel. No question I did a good job grounding the wires,,,thought that would cure the problem,,,,,still engine just turned over after the engine had cooled for 24hours,,,,thought it was the glow plug relay switch,,,,80a fuse which is bolted to the outside of the frame bout half way back to the seat on the same side of the tractor,,,,,I isolated the two wires,,,,both being black with red stripe,,,,one large one small that ran from the relay switch to the back of three threaded posts that attach the glow plugs common bar,,,,there was no power to either of the black wires from that relay,,,,the large red wire on the opposite side of the relay is constant hot,,,,,the last of 4 wires that come off of the glow plug relay is a small diameter red wire with a green stripe,,,,,that turns hot when the ignition key is turned to the first position, but again the two black wires would not energize to the glow plugs,,,,(I learned today from talking to a tractor repair mechanic, who does not work on Mahindras, that glow plugs in the current heat wave are generally not needed to start the little 3 banger diesels), With everything hooked up I examined the ignition switch,,,,there was power to all but one of the wires coming off of the ignition switch,,,,,I understand that I am a backyard shade tree mechanic but I have completed several restorations of classic cars from my teenage years through my 30 year career in law enforcement so I love engines and fixing things (never worked on a 3 banger diesel though),,,,I know I should not have but I replaced the ignition switch and the glow plug 80a relay switch with new ones from my Mahindra dealership in Nacogdoches Tx.

I still have a no start problem,,,,switched my thoughts to the diesel delivery to the cylinders,,,took the small diameter rubber fuel line from the end of the metal fuel rail and turned over the engine getting a slow pulsating flow,,,,(no old cop weiner jokes please),,,,,so to me that meant that I was getting power to the fuel pump and that it was pumping fuel,,,,still have a no start problem. I replaced all of the fuses of the fuse box with correct fuses for each, testing them with a testing probe light with the new ignition key turned to the first position,,,,,both sides of each of the fuses showed power,,,,,you guessed it still have a no start engine. I forgot to mention,,,a bit off the problem issue,,,,I changed the oil and the oil filter before I started all of these backyard mechanic diagnostics,,,,in any event,,,,I finally pulled the big red handle and unbolted and opened up the hallowed electronic engine controller box,,,,the large and incredibly complex and incredibly costly,,,,($1,900),,,mother board appeared perfect,,,,nothing damaged to my untrained eye,,,,carefully put it back into its sealed casing and re installed it,,,,,yup,,,,no start problem still here,,,,,I NEED YOUR HELP FELLAS,,,,PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS

 

[Sgt Slag]

First off, I recommend searching the Internet for a factory service manual. I purchased and downloaded a PDF copy for my eMax 20s. Then, I uploaded it to Lulu.com, and they printed and sent me a spiral-bound color manual: select high quality ink and high quality paper, as the PDF's images are not the best resolution, so low quality paper and ink will make them less legible. The PDF manual cost me $40? The printed hardcopy cost me another $40? Worth it, IMO.

The black wires on the starter relay, etc., are likely the grounding wires. The only way you will see voltage on them, is if you disconnect them, and put a Volt Meter between them, when they are energized. If you place your Volt Meter's leads across them and chassis ground, when they are wired into the circuit, they will not show a Voltage Drop, unless they are resistive enough to register a few Volts Drop across them -- very unlikely.

It sounds like perhaps a safety switch has gone bad. There is one in the seat: if you are not seated on the tractor, it will not start/run. There are other safety switches as well: one on the brake (I leave mine in Park mode, locked down): if the parking brake is not engaged, it will not start.

Make certain your PTO Switch is in the disengage/PTO Off position. My tractor's PTO switch got busted when some stuff fell on top of it. It is tied into the starting system. Mine would not turn over, at all, because the PTO Switch was broken. When I replaced it with an aftermarket switch (1/10 the cost of OEM replacement, from Amazon.com), it fired up immediately, ran perfectly, per factory design. My indie mechanic pointed me to it: I paid him for his troubleshooting time, then I ordered and installed the replacement switch, myself.

Bottom line: I recommend you find an independent tractor mechanic to help you, if the safety switches are not the issue. It sounds like something broke, suddenly. The schematic wiring diagram should show you all of the switches, relays, etc., which are inline with the ignition system, and if you can read it, you can check them off, sequentially, to verify each one is working properly.

I do not recommend throwing parts at it, until you fix it. You will soon blow through the cost of a professional mechanic having fixed it for you, many hours in the past... Cheers!