Mahindra Max 28 electrical

[j wilson]

drajj5....just got a call yesterday that tractor was done, they put a whole new wire harness in it and a fuel solenoid in it,...the sealed connector that the solenoid plugs into was full of water, that shorted the solenoid out....it sounds to me from talking to the sales guy, that this is a known issue with a few tractors. they have had the tractor for 3 weeks now...went there to make arrangements to get it back yesterday and looked at my baby and the hood looked like it had been thru a war...they had it off for the repairs and it must have been kicked all around the shop and something dropped on it. they offered to send it out to a bump shop to get straighten and painted, i told them i want a new hood! got a message first thing this morning said they are replacing my hood, the dealer has been great through all of this...just a series of unfortunate issues, i dont know how long for a hood now,,,but a need my tractor back!!

 

[drajj5]

Well I am glad that they got it sorted out. I am shocked that they replaced the whole harness though!!! amazed that they pulled the hood at all, I was careful to place the two side panels in a safe place while I fooled with mine. Super glad that your dealer has made things right and without question replaced what was damaged. Thanks for letting us know what they did to repair your- electrical dilemma.

 

[linuxman51]

good info in this thread. I had an electrical issue with mine at the ~10 hour mark I think, the wiring for the seat switch got caught up in the mechanism that allows the seat to spin around for backhoe-ing, wasn't ziptied at the factory (or something). not a big deal, and had it not been brand new I would have fixed it myself.. Dealer came out, investigated and verified what I'd said, and ended up replacing the whole seat (I guess the switch wasn't available individually?).

anyone else had issues with their batteries making a mess of the tray/lower front end?

 

[j wilson]

got tractor back...running great, just waiting for replacement hood:thumbsup:

 

[CobyRupert]

I did find out what the cylinder shaped thing was - it was a ETR solenoid. Used to shut engine off when you turn ignition switch off.. For those who were curious.

There was no power to the "load Relay".....Well my meter read 12vdc but when a test light was used it would not light up. Bazaar; that voltage was present, however when I applied a load it voltage would drop off.

FYI:
Not sure about this case, but often that will happen when you're measuring the voltage at a "cut' negative wire, or where there is an open switch in the negative wire.
That is imagine a simple 12VDC circuit with a light bulb (or whatever the load is), where the negative (ground) return wire is cut or switched ( & floating). If you measure the voltage of the cut /floating return wire, it will read 12vdc, because there is no current flowing, thus no voltage drop across the load (light), thus your measuring the 12VDC of the source in a wire you'd expect to be 0 volts.
Now if you complete the circuit with a light tester, the 12VDC is split across the (resistance of the) load and the resistance of the bulb in the tester. If they are of equal resistance, it would be 6v across the load, and 6 volts across tester, which may not be enough voltage to operate either one.

 

[drajj5]

He is right..... there can be many variables to the equation. His explanation is well written, and can explain lost/corroded grounds. I can only troubleshoot by comparing it to a, " State Highway Map"-envisioning that bundle of wires as roads on a map leading to each destination. 'Corny I know', but it is how I get the problem fixed. That is why I need to use schematics' when I make repairs. Guess others use my technique as well to simplify any electrical issue!:thumbsup:

 

[DavesTractor]

On another note, but similar, this happens commonly on a dirty battery cable. Lights often work, at least the dash light. But as soon as you turn the key to start - everything goes dark and no cranking, despite having good voltage when the battery is tested. People then call and want to order a switch or a starter. We insist that they clean all connections, which annoys people at first. They later call and...what do you know, it runs good now. And sometimes that bad connection is not at the battery end of the cable. You have to check both ends.

We had a fuel shutoff solenoid fail last week on a Mitsu/Mahindra. Appears they get their ground through the threads where it screws into the FIP. These threads had paint on them. I think that made a poor ground and caused the solenoid to fail. Seen this 3-4 times now, out of hundreds sold. It's like a batch got painted with the threads exposed. Seems to happen within the first 20 hours if it happens at all. We have never seen one fail beyond that. The symptom is that it will start and then immediately die when you let go of the key and it returns to "run" from "start". I expect a cut wire at a crimp may be a similar scenario.

 

[awesomefx]

Jim, did you ever find out what the problem with you tractor was? I had the same problem today with my Max 22. Was spreading fertilizer, stopped to refuel and that was it. Would not run. engine would start but when the key was released it would die. Dealer is closed today or I would call to see if he could send me a schematic. Seems almost certainly to be an electrical problem, but without a schematic I have no idea where to start.

I think I found my problem. Using the info on this website I went to the fuel solenoid and pulled the connector. Like others I found water inside...not sure how it got there, (my tractor is always in the garage when not being used) and blew it out with compressed air. Tried to start but same symptoms. knowing how solenoids can be finicky I provided a little mechanical agitation with a block of wood and the handle of a screwdriver, tried starting again and success! WooHoo. Thanks for the info folks.

 

[AchingBack]

Jim, did you ever find out what the problem with you tractor was? I had the same problem today with my Max 22. Was spreading fertilizer, stopped to refuel and that was it. Would not run. engine would start but when the key was released it would die. Dealer is closed today or I would call to see if he could send me a schematic. Seems almost certainly to be an electrical problem, but without a schematic I have no idea where to start.

Were you using a pto operated spreader? Did you disengage the lever before trying to start? If you didn't, there is your problem.

 

[drajj5]

Good to see you found this issue- and fixed it!! awesomefx, I think that he may have had multiple issues as they replaced both the solenoid and wiring harness on his max 28.

Glad to see a post on this site helped you with yours..

 

[Rok88]

I know this and old thread, but for those who would like a little more info here it is. There have been a lot of reports of the 3 wire connector from the fuel shutoff solenoid filling with moisture (not sure how/why), drying the connector often fixes the problem. If there is a problem with the solenoid itself here is what happens, one wire is ground, one wire is hot when the key is in the 'run' position and one wire is hot in the 'start' position. When the solenoid dies you loose the 'run' circuit, so when you release the key from 'start' you loose power to the solenoid (needs power to keep the plunger retracted allowing fuel to flow). If the tractor dies when you release the key it is your fuel shutoff solenoid, if 'tapping' the solenoid doesn't work it will need to be replaced. The solenoid is a large cylinder that threads into the back of the injector pump on the right side of the engine (has a large set nut to hold it in place), the connector is often tucked in close to the firewall and may take a bit to find it.

 

[DavesTractor]

Well said!

 

[bdally]

Jim

If you would like a good schematic of your tractor I can send you one via email. The Pic is large so you can read it easily. I colored it too, so I could see the circuit(s) better. The colors are not exact but make it easier to read. I would start at the two relays and go from there. There was water found in my ETR solenoid as well. Shoot me a pm and I will email it to you
Don

Don,
It sounds like I have a very similar problem. My tractor was running fine, moving some dirt, when all of a sudden it just stopped running. I would love to get a copy of you wiring schematics. I have a 2014 28XL Max. Never had a problem like this. Please email me at bldally99@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Ni will let you know what I find.

 

[bdally]

It appears that I have the same issue... 2014 Max 28XL, was operating and all of a sudden just died. After a taking all the covers off and checking of wires, could not find a possible problem... trouble shooting, found that I lost power (12V) from the fuse, to the load relay. (after getting a really good schematic on line). Made a jumper, jumped across, and the tractor started right up. Now after several hours of operation the tractor won't stay running. It will start, but once you release the key, to go from start to run, it dies. I have checked on-line and the consensus, is that it may be the fuel solenoid. An easy check, from what I hear. Just need to find it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[doneill127]

Here’s a 26xl schematic with hst should be similar also copy of solenoid replacement for the MHI motor. Located on the back side of the injection pump hope it helps

 

[bdally]

Don,
It sounds like I have a very similar problem. My tractor was running fine, moving some dirt, when all of a sudden it just stopped running. I would love to get a copy of you wiring schematics. I have a 2014 28XL Max. Never had a problem like this. Please email me at bldally99@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Ni will let you know what I find.

Found what I think is the problem.

 

[drajj5]

Good to see that you got it fixed!
It looks to be the exact issue that I had, I have not had an issue with the tractor since. I have not been gentle or treated it as well as I should have (aside from keeping it maintained)
Don