Maintenance materials

[funpilot]

OK, what oil do you use for the engine? Is it the same that you use for the hydrolics? What about grease? I thought Terry told me to use two different greases...one for high temp? Once again, another senior moment that I hope you can help me with.

By the way, had a great time with my 425 this weekend. What a machine.

 

[MossRoad]

I run Mobil1 in my engine(a Kohler).

I also have regular grease for the wheel bearings and caster spindles and high speed grease for the mower bearings.

 

[funpilot]

Thanks...now I know where the high speed grease goes.

 

[pajoube]

I use 10 W 30 for the engine and 10 W 40 for the hydrolic tank.
I also use high temp grease for any attachment that runs off the PTO and regular grease for all else. I ended up buying two grease guns, one red and the other black from Sears. Both operate off my air tank.
PJ

 

[BobRip]

I use Mobil 1 5W30 in the engine and 15W50 in the transmission. I find I get a lot more torgue with the 15w50 in the transmission. I actaully changed out my oil. With your wheel motors this is probably not an issue.

If you do not use a synthetic, you should probably use 30W in the summer and 10W30 in the winter for the engine. This means you might have to change oil for the season change and not from just hours of use. That is one reason I go for the synthetic. The other is that I want things to last a long time. I live in the Richmond Va. area, so I have the same climate that you do. One of the others guys was from up north and their needs are different.

Enjoy your 425, it's a great machine.
Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

I have attached the link for the engine manuals. Try this:
http://www.robinamerica.com/manuals/index.lasso

I always get the service manual for my cars and so I got one for the tractor. You can down load this for free. It is probably more info than you need, but it can come in handy.

Bob Rip

 

[Dakar]

Speaking of grease, does anyone have any experience with the 12V grease guns on the market? They look like they would be really handy. Also, would they (or the air compressor powered grease guns) be less prone to developing those @#%&+ air pockets? I must have spent nearly an hour this weekend doing what should be a simple 15 minute job because I had to stop about 10 times and mess with the blasted grease gun. I am determined to get a better one, but I am worried that I will go out and get an expensive one and still have the same problems.

 

[tracdoc]

I use Mobil 1 for the engine (Robin). I changed over at the 1st oil change at 20 hr.

For lube, I think there are a lot of good products out there. I was introduced to the Loctite line by two well respected race car builders. I use Loctite Viperlube {HERE} for all lift arms, articulations, etc. It's a fully synthetic NLGI-2 grease. We also use it for all lube on our race car.

For PTO stuff, I prefer a lube with an "EP" (extreme pressure) rating. Like oils, greases get different 'additive packages' depending upon the intended use. EP greases are commonly recommended for use in bearings, spindles and the like. I am usng Loctite Extreme Pressure Grease, which is an NLGI-1/EP grease {HERE}.

Both are available at Industrial Supplies & Equipment {HERE}.

I have no commercial/financial interest in either the manufacturer or the seller. It's just a great product.

 

[Marks481]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, would they less prone to developing those @#%&+ air pockets?)</font>

I have had three or four different grease guns and I have never had problems with air pockets.

You do use the bleeder screw in the top of the grease gun to get rid of all of the air before your start pumping, right? And you push the shaft all the way down after loading the grease gun to leave the spring inside free to pressure the grease?

Maybe it is time to buy a new grease gun. I would recommend buying the most expensive manual one you can find. What will that run, about $18?

 

[tracdoc]

Hi Dakar,
My experience with the 12V grease guns, albeit mostly vicarious, was pretty dismal. The ones I tried were pretty much like the cigar lighter air compressors---where's the beef?. All my race friends who had them, eventually abandonend them in favor of a good pistol grip gun. You don't need to spend a lot to get a good manual gun.

The Lincoln 1134 is a fantastic gun. We own 3 of them, and all work exceptionaly well. It will pump up to 7,500 psi with a pistol grip, and that is worth its weight in gold on a tightly cramped race car. On the PT, it's a dream.

You can get one for under $30-35, and it comes with rigid tube and flex hose. We got ours {HERE}