Maintenance on an 851 Powermaster

[851 PM Ford]

Bought an 851 Ford powermaster over the weekend, my first tractor. All seems well at present, needs new lift arms soon, need to buy a tarp until I build a shed, and Oil is black, so gonna change the oil this weekend when done with work. I would like to find a cheap maintenance manual, even if a PDF download. Does anyone have experience with this tractor. I am a newby and I want to keep the baby gently working for as long as possible.

I cleared my 11 acres, and was weighing hiring the grading and root raking out and then bush-hogging later vs. getting my own. Got this tractor, a new bush hog and a scrape blade for less than 3 grand. It seems sound, don't want to run it long with the black oil. Any mentors would be appreciated.


Thanks, my name is Trey

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Look on e-bay, search "ford 851 Manual" I found a bunch. It's a close cousin to a NAA and other ford tractors of that age. For your arms look to places like Steiner tractor. Don't abuse or overload it, Keep the fluids changed, Keep your gas clean and treat it when the tractor will be sitting and tune it up occasionally (points and plugs) and it will last a very long time. Good choice for a first tractor. Oh yeah, wash and wax it occasionally. One more thing. If you plan to pull anything with a regular hitch (like that trailer) consider buying a proper drawbar (one that bolts the back of the tractor). The bar you can get that goes on the three point can be very dangerous.

 

[851 PM Ford]

Thanks for your reply sir! Gonna go ahead and order both arms and change the oil on Saturday. The 8 hour trip to get it and come back have stunted my spending until this thursday nights payday.

Any ideas where to find the oil drain plug? I've searched for a schematic and can find none. Don't want to acccidentally drain the wrong fluid by mistake!

I will go ahead and get that manual from Ebay like you recommended, 25 bucks for 6 different pdfs is reasonable I think. Thanks again and hope to hear back from ya.

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

Oil drain will be bottom of the engine oil pan. It should be fairly obvious. I don't know exactly on that tractor.

 

[GManBart]

Welcome Trey!

That's a great machine...is it gas or diesel?

You can find the manual for either version on tractorclub.com's site. Just scroll down until you find the Ford 801 series (821, 841, 851, 861 all the same manual).

NTC Manual Library

 

[851 PM Ford]

Yeah OTF, I went out to my property at lunch time, a **** blind man could find that drain plug! Thanks!

It is a gas Gman. Thanks for the tip! I'll have to check that out! I puttered around at lunch for an hour, I got a 7 way scraper and tried it out. Too many roots, got 2 of my kid cousins coming saturday, gonna pick roots all day and see if that helps.

Hit a buried stump and caught a steering wheel in the gut, OOF! Oh well. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[john_bud]

You should change the trans fluid,diff fluid and hyraulic fluid too. Three plugs under the tractor (smaller than the oil plug). Front one is transmission, middle one is hydraulics and rear one is differential. The seals between the sections often leak, so it's frequently best to just buy UTF and use it for all sections.

The hydraulic fluid in the middle section goes through steel pipes in the transmission. Water in the fluid rusts those pipes and the trans overflows. It's probably smart (but a messy job) to take off the manifold from the hydraulic pump to the transmission and clean the tubes with a gun brush and swabs to get the crud out. And they ALL have crud in them that wears out the hydraulic pump.

Also, the shift "plungers" wear. They are replaced externally and are pretty cheap. (40-50 bucks total) Replacement takes about 10-15 min.

Here's new and old.

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The round part fits into a hollow on the shift rails. That is what holds the trans in gear. Once they wear, the internal parts wear and then the gears pop out more and more. Especially 3rd going down hill.

 

[851 PM Ford]

Thanks for the tip John Bud. How many gallons total of "utf" are we talking here? Is that UTF 134 that I've read about are there any filters involved? This tractor is 40 minutes from my house, I don't live on "the farm" yet. I know I quite literally put the cart before the horse (or house, or shed for that matter), but I just got tired of paying other people to do these tractor jobs..... If it runs now, you think I've got another 50 hours before I change all these fluids? I know the pto, clutch, and pto bearings were all changed within the last year, and I felt that all those fluids had to be replaced as they drained out when the was done, (I was told). (not a great mechanic YET, but motivated and neccessity is the mother of invention no?). I KNOW that black oil can't be good, so was gonna start with that....

 

[john_bud]

Google found this. I haven't verified it with my manual. It's somewhere...

Capacities (by the book) are as follows:
Cooling System - 15 qts
Engine Oil (with filter change) - 5 qts (remember the air cleaner as SouNdguy said).
Tranny - 4 speed - 6 1/2 qts
Hydraulic Reservoir - 9 qts
Diffy - 11 1/2 qts

You undoubtedly have 50 hours or more . I'm on a 500 hour / 3 year schedule for those fluids and 100 hours for engine oil. Typically, water infiltration is the biggest issue. Since you store the machine outdoors, you may want to find a way to cover up the exhaust pipe, shift lever, etc. I use a coffee can on the exh stack over the top of the flapper. On the 5 speed, there isn't a boot on the shift lever like a 4 speed, but you may still want to get a tarp on it.

 

[bajabum]

I have an '58 Ford 861, maintenance is super easy, AND Napa has most of the parts you need!
I've upgraded to a 12 volt system, electronic ignition and a alternator.
Much easier to start.
I also took off the hydraulic top cover and had the local tractor shop redo all the seals and o rings, as well as plumb it for a rear remote.
Less than $200 for all that.
Note- the cover is thick cast iron, a two man lift!
Next is newer tires... $$$

 

[Happy Gilmore]

Nice tractor, welcome!

 

[851 PM Ford]

Thanks! I've definitely got enough information to keep me busy for a coupla weekends, next comes the busted knuckles and sweat!

 

[Soundguy]

i'd dump in some atf and diesel and alcohol into the diffy, trans and hyds sump and then use that as the flush..

diffy drain is the pipe plug in the rear.. next drain up is the hyds, next one up nearest oil pan is trans.

figure on about 7g utf to do the entire thing.

also check to make sure there is no thrust play in the pto shaft.. and check lube and play in the steering box.

what's wrong witht he rear lift arms that they need to be replaced?

also do the rad fluid. green coolant is fine... if it still has a genny it needs a drop of oil under the oiler cap.. same with dizzy.

plugs are al 437 gap at .025 points gap at .025

 

[851 PM Ford]

Sound guy, dumb it down for a newby would you please sir? If I am understanding you correctly, you're saying put about a 50/50 mix of automatic trans fluid and deisel, (approx) into differential, transmission, and hydraulic reservoirs. run it around in a 10 acre circle (more or less run time?, should I raise and lower the arms or just leave it be?) redrain and dispose of that, then fill up all 3 reservoirs with utf, (134, correct?) which is approx 7 gallons, (or 2 - 5 gallon buckets with about 3 gallons for next time). I understand changing the radiator fluid. Genny is the old style breather correct? Whats a dizzy? PTO seems to work fine, that and the bearings were changed in the last 50 hours. Both of the DRAWBARS, (I was wrong it think, not lift arms) are wore out, one so much the ball/swivel bearing thingy has fallen out and been lost where it pins into the attachments. Is all the above correct?

 

[851 PM Ford]

And I can't seem to find online where to purchase "utf" 134. Sorry for the ignorance at this time, trying to learn this stuff....

 

[john_bud]

Gennie is short for generator. Old version of alternator.

Dizzy is a term some use for the distributor.

On the lower three point arms (not draw bar, that's in the middle under the differential), a welding shop can swap out ball ends for new for far less $ than a new arm! Balls are a wear item.

On the flush, yes operate your 3 pt up and down. If any fluid is milky (water contamination) add a few containers of gas drier and after your drive around, let it drip for a few hours.

Luck!

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. repair ends can be bought at farm stores and simply welded on. those are called draftlinks, or lower lift arms.

oil bath air filter needs cleaning too. media and cup oil changed.

a quart of atf in each sump and a half gallon diesel in each sump with the old oil. if any oil is milty, add in a pint of 90% rubbing alcohol, make a lap around the pasture and drain.

UTF is generic for universal tractro fluid. walmart, most farm stores and auto parts stores sell it.

transdraulic, universal hyd oil.. etc. tractor fluid.. etc.

134 is a spec that is indicating the old ford spec of M2C134D though the A spec for that old machine is fine if you found an older spec pail.

 

[851 PM Ford]

Thanks guys, I've learned a bunch so far.... My final clarification questions are: I've found a pair of used draftlinks on ebay for 60 bucks a pair, (the ones I have are wollered out all 4 ends, and the ends are 20 bucks a peice, Plus 23 bucks shipping. I also found a brand new pair of draft links for 100 bucks a pair, plus 36 bucks shipping. I'll probably get one of those, and save the welding. (my dad welds but the older he gets he drinks and he's hard to deal with).

Secondly, I found a "universal tractor fluid at O'reillys auto parts for 54 bucks a 5 gallon jug, or plain old "Tractor fluid" at parks for 42 bucks. Are these the same thing? for 2 5 gallon buckets I'll save about 25 bucks with the latter....

 

[john_bud]

Do you have a farm supply store around? Tractor supply (TSC) is one. Around here we have "Farm & Fleet" and "Fleet Farm" that carry things like the ball ends and universal arms.

You do have to be sure that you are buying arms for your machine. Some of the cheaper "universal fit" arms will be too short for your older machine. No sense in getting something that won't work!

I looked on ebay and the arms from "FRP Rust Farm" for 60 bucks look decent and are for you machine. I'd probably get them.

 

[Soundguy]

check the specs ont he fluid. if it meets the m2c134 spec you are good. some walmarts even carry. it.

PS. rural king and tsc sell a universal ford lift arm cheaper than you quoted.