Making boxblade shank tips

[paulinkansas]

I've got an old rear hinged boxblade, there are half a dozen or so scarifying shanks on the boxblade. Each shank has a tip. The tips "used" to have a nice rectangular portion that was the first part to come in contact with the soil. The rectangular portion was a bit smaller than a playing card.

Now the tips are pretty much rounded off and oval in shape.

I have some 3/8 inch x 2 inch generic flat iron. There is a scapyard here, and they sell angle, flat tube iron; nothing special or exotic. I wondered about cutting some playing card sized pieces off and welding them to the old worn out tips.

Here's my 4 questions:

Is this steel too soft?
If it's too soft, do I need to harden or treat it somehow?
Are the old tips hardened or treated somehow that would effect welding the new tip face on to it?
Is there any special method to weld the new tips on?

I have a 220 mig welder with gas and basic .035 solid wire, and a 220 stick welder. I can get just about any kind of stick here in town.

 

[blueone]

Yes I would just use the mild steel because of price and easy of fabrication. Afterward I'd get you some Hard-face rod, check with your welding shop and get one with as high chrome content as they carry. I work in the Brick Industry and we hard-face everything due to constant dirt contact and use mild steel because of what I said earlier.

 

[Taylortractornut]

I make the scarifier teethfor a friends blox blades from worn grader blades. The edge thats ofen not used is still factory shaprand its hard. i just cut them off in slivers to weld ontohis old shanks. He maintains a 3/4 mile long gravel drive and always uses his scarifiers on his 480 Landscape loader with a hydraulic box blade with down pressure. I often use chipper blades from the chipmill near where I work I buy them for scrap price and use them to build up the teeth on rippers and the teeth on our paddle wheel scraper at work.

 

[DanD78]

The Stoody company makes some of the best hard surfacing rod in the world. They make a build up rod you use to build the teeth back close to the original shape then put the hard surface rod over the top. Some of their alloys are so hard a grinder won't hardly cut. They have many choices so you will have to read from their site or ask your welding supply house.

https://www.mythermadyne.com/thc/en/US/adirect/thc?cmd=catDisplayStyle

Dan

 

[blueone]

The Stoody company makes some of the best hard surfacing rod in the world. They make a build up rod you use to build the teeth back close to the original shape then put the hard surface rod over the top. Some of their alloys are so hard a grinder won't hardly cut. They have many choices so you will have to read from their site or ask your welding supply house.

https://www.mythermadyne.com/thc/en/US/adirect/thc?cmd=catDisplayStyle

Dan

I agree with DanD78 100%, I put some on a Cat 938 loader bucket[when new]that gets used 8 hours a day M-F at a Brick MFG Company Redland Brick - Old Brick, Thin Brick, Face Brick, and Genuine Clay Pavers and it looks almost new, that was 10 years ago.

 

[77bronco]

Years ago when I worked in a Heavy equip. wrecking yard, the foreman would have me weld pieces of leaf spring onto the face of the ripper shank teeth so they would last longer than the steel that was originally there.
If you could find some old truck springs and cut sections off them, they would probably last a good long while.