I am thinking I can weld up my own 2 inch reciever hitch that do alot of different things cheaper than the 200.00+ dollars I have seen them costing. I was thinking of using 2 inch sqaure at 3/16 wall thicness and 1/4 thick flat. Will that be strong enough for plowing, fence stretching, ect?. It will be used on my kubota B7510. Let me know what you guys think, I only want to build it one time!.
Making my own 3pt. hitch
- Thread starter randy1687
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Erik_in_Hoyt
Platinum Member
your square tube should be fine, since that's pretty much standard sizing for any receiver hitch, but i'd consider using heavier flat stock for the frame -- go take a look at the flat metal support bits on a box or grader blade, I bet they're at least 5/16 and maybe 3/8" to handle the lateral stresses.
kennyd
Advertiser
JB4310
Super Member
kennyd said:
Kenny,
Nice setup, home made cable layer, did you make that ripper or are they for sale? does that stiff uf cable feed thru that conduit smoothly? I can hardly push it thru!
Randy,
I'm sure you can do it a little cheaper but for sure you can also add your own custom features, I would add some rings for trailer safety chains and a place to hook a limiter chain between the adapter and the tractors draw bar to prevent the 3 pt from rising above the safe operating limit.
Then think of some other things to customize it.
Here's a pic of my flexpoint, which I can't remember what I paid for it, but might have been close to $200.
And BTW welcome!
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kennyd
Advertiser
I made it, It's only been used to lay about 200' of cable, but it worked perfectly. Depth was about 14" or so...I did run the ripper through the path I was burying the cable twice first to loosen the ground before laying the cable. The UF cable had no problem feeding thru the 1" conduit.
excelagator
Gold Member
Here's is one I built.
I used 2x2x1/4" wall tubing and the 1/4" flat-stock. I that sitting around. I had to buy the pins, hitch tube, HF flipable ball mount, and shackle mount. I probably have $30 in it. Much more useful that a drawbar with a ball IMHO.
BTW, very clever Kenny!!!!
I used 2x2x1/4" wall tubing and the 1/4" flat-stock. I that sitting around. I had to buy the pins, hitch tube, HF flipable ball mount, and shackle mount. I probably have $30 in it. Much more useful that a drawbar with a ball IMHO.
BTW, very clever Kenny!!!!
With the 3 point quick hitch, do you guys have to "hook" the top pin first (with the bottom of the hitch swung back) and then bring the bottom in to clip it in?
In some of the images, there does not seem to be enough room to drop the whole rig straight down (not that it matters, I was just curious)
One other note, I was thinking about hitting the junk yards to get a class III hitch off a junk car and adding the top link, but I am not sure if it is worth the trouble (rather than simply fabbing up the whole thing)
In some of the images, there does not seem to be enough room to drop the whole rig straight down (not that it matters, I was just curious)
One other note, I was thinking about hitting the junk yards to get a class III hitch off a junk car and adding the top link, but I am not sure if it is worth the trouble (rather than simply fabbing up the whole thing)
excelagator
Gold Member
bx24 said:
I moved my uptube out further for a bit of enforcement in my mind. Personally I should had ran the tubes square and did a tube gusset on the receiver forward and back. Also the problem with uptube is the spacing. You could do this better with two uptubes and spaced further abit. The spacing would be better doing that.
Smart man!!!!
Someone on here did exactly what you are describing with a hitch from a S-10. I would look for a square tube receiver at the junkyard.excelagator said:
I like the way yours turned out. Given the current "beefyness" of your set-up, even without the extra gussets, I would be surprised if you ever put enough torque on that connection to cause problems. I always think that I need to beef things up, but after looking at critical joints on various machines (and assuming a lot of engineering and testing went into their design), I am always surprised at out much is achieved by so little material and support. If you are concerned, I would expect you could throw a couple of quick gussets in there in a matter of minutes.
Nice job
JB4310
Super Member
bx24 said:
On mine there is not enough room to drop on the J-hooks, I've been just loosening my top bolt (I have a threaded bolt) you could use a quick pin with the bushing, but after looking at the picture I was thinking the same as you, that it may be able to be swung in place after getting the top in, but I doubt there is enough clearance to do it, Like you said though, it doesn't really matter since the thing is light enough to maneuver by hand.
I would think if you can find a "junkyard" factory hitch, that would be the ideal starting platform to build your own, just not one of those glossy china units that have more engineering than good steel in them.
