making my own sub soiler

[OldMcDonald]

I agree on the top link adjustment and downforce, but also like a lot of weight on implements I work deep. Can you give some details on the size and angle of the sweep? The "wings" I referred to are the same thing, but I will be guessing at their length. I thought a little more than the shank - 8" at the bottom with the shank and the triangular piece on the base, so I thought maybe 2" beyond the rear of the shank to give a total length of 10". Any comments? Old McDonald.

 

[bobodu]

This is what I started out with,but the "foot" on the bottom tended to accentuate any turns made by the tracot and bent that 1/2 inch steel like butter...

Here is what I ended up doing...haven't straightened it out yet...used many times just like it is though....

And here is the sweep..

 

[brewdog]

I put it in 4 wd and and she pulls like a team of mules.

 

[MMM]

You don't need implement weight, you need correct angle (you will need tractor ballast). You are talking serious horsepower to pull 1 shank 30" deep. I don't believe 45hp will do 2 of them.
Better off finding an engineered parabolic (curved) and alter to fit your tractors. They pull much easier.
Here's a link that might save a lot of DIYer's some wasted time trying to build stuff they can't pull.

Tillage hp requirements

How deep is the hardpan you're trying to bust? Best to check soil layers and only rip an inch or 2 deeper than hardpan. Not sure about Olive tree, but root system (exclude taproot) of most trees is quite shallow.

 

[bobodu]

Indeed....you will also find you need more traction than it seems.We used an 65 HP Oliver 1850 to pull the irrigation pipe down to about 12 inches.Any deeper in Indiana clay would send the tires spinning.Pulling a disc doesn't do that....

 

[OldMcDonald]

There are no used equipment sources here, that is why I have to build things myself. I have cropped the land for the last two years, and worked to a depth of about 10" with a 7 tine scarifier - it is only 1 hectare and I will be ripping just the planting lines for 277 trees. A weird number, but 6 x 6 metres spacings fits. As I said, I do not expect to get any more than an extra 6" on each pass, maybe just 3, and hopefully 4 or 5 passes will get me down. There is a hard layer at about 15 inches and maybe 4" thick (we have just installed an irrigation system and a couple of drains so were able to check that) and as long as I bust through it I will be happy, but would like more depth. It is normal in olive growing areas around the world to do this deep ripping prior to planting the trees. It helps them get roots to a good depth in a short time. I have the steel to try the job, and bringing in a contractor (not local) is estimated at €1,000 which is a lot of US$ whatever the present exchange rate is. It will be a simple matter to change to a central single leg if I cannot manage with 2 behind the wheels. I will need to wait until the soil dries in the spring before attempting it, but will post an update.

Bobodu, thanks for the pics. Old McDonald.

 

[MMM]

The soil should be dry enough to shatter the hard layer and not just gouge it. The problem with going deeper than needed is all tillage produces compaction due to wedge effect and putting pressure on soil underside of point. One ends up with compaction that can't be reached with that implement anymore. Being a one time deal with trees it shouldn't be a big problem. Best of luck.
I was just in Lisbon a couple months back moored under the brige looking at the big statue. Beautiful country!

 

[DocHeb]

Similiar techniques for deep ripping prior to planting are used for apple orchards in my area, and in vineyards in California. I remember seeing pictures on the Web of a CAT dozer pulling a 60" (1.5m) single tooth ripper through the soil before planting grape vines.

 

[OldMcDonald]

Yeah, I know.

But I now know that you also know, and many people do not, so that gives me confidence that anything else you post is also likely to be backed up by knowledge. Old McDonald.

 

[sandman2234]

Just wondering if you put a cam type of bearing the the upper shank of a subsoiler, and spun it, creating a wobble effect, if that would allow you to increase the depth you were able to reach previously? I am suggesting something like a vibratory pipe puller. Seems like a waste to have the PTO sitting there, doing nothing while the poor tires are doing all they can to hold their own...
David from jax