Massey 135 Orchard Brakes/Hydraulics/Exploratory Surgery

AMcDowell · Feb 27, 2016

Hi All,
I was having some problems with my Massey so I decided to do some exploratory surgery. The problem I was having with the brakes was that the right wheel would lock up when you applied the brakes. Reversing would unlock the brake. I was also having some problems with the hydraulics. The 3 point would not stop in the middle of the range, it was either full up or full down. Also, when the 3 point was up and you pushed the lever down, it wouldn't do anything for 20 to 30 seconds and then drop down. I started out with just the intent to check out the brakes and replace the filter for the hydraulics. I have a friend who's an auto mechanic who happens to have some free time so we decided to dig a little deeper.

Findings: My understanding is that the 135 orchard models are the same as a 165 from the clutch back. The one I have has a cast rear axle with inboard brakes. The brakes are really cool. They are discs that are pushed either direction by an actuator that has ball bearings that travel up ramps to push out on the discs. I think there was so much dust that it was making the actuator stick open on that one side.
The seal on one of the outer planetaries was bad and had water mixed in with the oil. While we are this deep in I'm going to replace the seal for the PTO where it's seeping.
There was a layer of sludge that coated everything in the hydraulic section. It didn't seem too bad from some of the posts that I've read. The bottom of the stand pipe had torn O rings. Is the gray washer neoprene? It's labeled as a special washer in the parts book. I did find a random sheared off bolt in the bottom. It's pretty small, I still haven't figured out where it came from. Some time this week I want to pull the hydraulic pump and give it a good look over. I might be able to see some scoring on one of the pistons.
I found a ROPS at a local tractor junkyard for $650 that I'm planning on installing. I got a price quote on one through the dealer, it was from SafTCab and they wanted $1600 plus freight. Also going from really weather checked and worn out 11.9X28 tires to 14.9X28 tires that will be filled with bio ballast. The wheels I bought with the bigger tires were pretty rotted out. I need to buy some wheels and then get them all mounted up.
I ordered most of the parts from my local massey dealer. They are more expensive for some parts but I was able to take the brake discs in to the service department and get some advice that kept me from buying new discs so $200 saved goes towards making up for the price difference.
I'm not sure why the pictures are sideways. I'll have to try and figure out how to fix that.
Thanks.

-Aaron

generalconfusion · May 5, 2016

Hi , if the pictures show the position of the 3 point linkage levers as you were using them to lift up and down then you may be using the wrong , I had the same problem when I got my 145 the lever with the ball head should be left in the rearwards position and not moved , the lever with the squareish head nearest the seat should be set to transport for 3 point up and pushed backwards to lower the 3 point

redman135 · May 7, 2016

Hello AMcDowell, The 3ph problem sounds like you are using preassure control to do a position control job.
Can you show a photo of the 3ph control quadrants, especially the inside one. With a 165 back end I suspect you have a draft, position AND preassure control function on the 3ph controls.

AMcDowell · May 17, 2016

Thank you guys for replying! The inside lever with the sqareish head the one I've been using for position control. The round knob (draft control) I have left in the rearward (up) position. I finally had time to put everything back together and try it all out. To my pleasant surprise everything is working more or less how it should. The 3 pt. shakes quite a bit as it raises and lowers but it raises, lowers, and stops in the middle as it should. It raises a brush hog fine, it just shakes as it does it. With the transport control in the full up position you could hear the engine engage a little more and then it caused some chirping. I moved the detent plate forward a little bit so that the arms still raise fully but it doesn't sound like it's trying to engage the constant pumping.

Here is the only picture I have handy of the control quadrant. From my understanding the squareish head is the lever that raises and lowers the 3 pt. The ball head lever is draft control. Can you explain the pressure control? It sounds interesting.
Thanks again for your replies.

redman135 · May 18, 2016

Hello AMcDowell, I would like a picture that shows the writing on the curved section where the control levers are. The picture in the last post is 90 degrees wrong.
The square head lever is the position control. The 3ph will rise /lower in proportion to the lever's position ie lever 1/3 up so 3ph at 1/3 height.
If the position control lever uses the full length of the travel then you don't have "preassure control"

AMcDowell · May 24, 2016

The first picture shows the position control lever with the 3 point raised. The second picture shows the position control lever when the 3 point is lowered. In both the pictures the draft control lever is up (towards the back of the tractor).

redman135 · May 24, 2016

Hello AMcDowell, the photos show that you are using the 3ph controls correctly. Also it clearly shows you don't have "preassure control", so I can'y explain the 3ph, either up or down and no in
between.

shona13 · Jan 30, 2017

G'day AMcDowell.
Did you replace the brake expaning discs ,theones with the ball bearings in between??
The discs wear where the balls run and create a worn step ,this causes the brakes to clunk on and sometimes jamb,depending on how badly worn they are the damaged area can be reshaped using a Dremmell grinder and carefully smoothing and reshaping ,the most important thing if you go this way is that all the groves must be the same otherwise the discs will not expand parallel.
Replace both seals and the cork rings in the epicycle rings ,make sure the oil filler hole is facing to the rear and horizontal you may also if the ring is worn on the drive teeth reverse the ring and use the less worn "reverse " side of the gears.
The outboard epicycle seal leaking is an indication that the preload on the tapered roller bearing is excessive allowing the stub axle to oscilate when the tractor is driven, a quick test is to stand facing the rear wheel with the tractor on level ground and push vigourously on the top of the tyre ,Rocking the tractor like you are trying to tip it over ,Not that you would !! you will feel and hear an audible CLUNK this is the bearing cone jumping around if this is the case you may have to replace the bearing, there is a service tool to reset the preload or you can assemble the unit without the cork seals and check the preload that way ,when assembled you should be able to turn the hub by hand and there should be a maximum free float of .008"use a suitable dial indicator to check this if the free float has to be adjusted you will have to measure the float you have then measure the large circlip thickness and either add or subtract the difference and buy the correct thickness circlip, from memory you have a choice of maybe six different thicknesses.
Happy days.
Hutch.