I have a my dads old diesel Massey and decided to add a front end loader on it just to move things around easier, dirt and stuff. Anyway, my issue is I can稚 seem to get any response out of the loader. I have rebuilt the cylinders and am getting fluid all the way through the lines to the cylinders but still nothing. My question is could the control spool or valve, not certain the correct terminology, need to be rebuilt? I知 getting fluid past that point to the cylinders but it痴 practically the only thing I have yet to rebuild. That and the hydraulic pump itself, which I am trying to have to go into that unless I absolutely have to.
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Massey Ferguson 245 hydraulics issue
- Thread starter Subn3r0
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- massey ferguson 245
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
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- 2,757
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- Williamstown Ontario Canada
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- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
Far more likely that you have not connected into the hydraulic system in a way which will see a build up of pressure when you move a valve.
Provide more details and photos of what you have done.
Dave M7040
Provide more details and photos of what you have done.
Dave M7040
Dave thank you for your response. I have a 245 Massey diesel tractor with a homemade loader on it. We tied it into the hydraulics of the tractor using the ts300 diverter valve. I am getting fluid all through the lines and just got finished rebuilding the cylinders. I thought for certain I would see movement after rebuilding them but absolutely nothing. It has a Gresen 2702 control spool/valve, what else do you need to know? I’ll see if I can figure out how to upload a few photos.
Several questions this morning as I have had time to think about things. I guess my first question is how long should it be before the lines bleed themselves? I can tell that it’s bleeding the air back into the reservoir as I can see air bubbles down inside the tank. With that said since this loader has never been on this tractor, how long should it be before I see the loader move? I was asked if I was waiting long enough before stopping. I don’t know how long is long enough. Anyway I’m going to be tinkering with this thing today so any guidance would be greatly appreciated as I know nothing about tractors or hydraulics other than what I have been reading trying to figure out what’s wrong.
One more question, since I am getting fluid and the three point lift appears to be strong which tells me that I am gettin pressure from the pump. My initial thoughts are maybe I’m not getting enough pressure, so I was going to try and locate a gauge to see how much I am getting. Anyway, does anyone know how much I pressure I should have on the hydraulics? Also how to adjust if I’m not getting enough. Again any help anyone can give would be appreciated.
Ok found out that I should be putting out over 2000 psi which I have confirmed. My issue from what I am understanding if I am understanding correctly is that I need another diverter valve? When I take one spool or control valve out of the equation things seem to work but still not properly. I spoke with a local tractor guy and he said another diverter should resolve all my issues. I need one with the inlet and outlet and then the ability to connect two different control valves. If anyone knows the best place to pick up a 6 way diverter thank you.
Ok wow I have learned far more about hydraulics than I cared to, lol. Anyway, just an update I finally got everything to working. Until I attached the bucket that is. It will not pick up the weight of the bucket or tractor. Take the bucket off and I can raise and curl the loader but as soon as I add weight I’m done. Thoughts ideas? My first thought is change filter if there is one which I assume there is and maybe change the fluid? I really don’t understand why it won’t raise with the bucket attached. I am pushing way more than 2000 psi of pressure. Also i have to race the rpms of the tractor up to around 2000 rpm in order to see it trying to lift.
BukitCase
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- Feb 17, 2012
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Sounds to me like you still don't have your loader valve installed correctly - if your 3PH is strong but your loader won't lift its own weight, then whatever fluid MIGHT be in that part of the system, is NOT being "contained" enough to do any serious WORK.
Here's the manual for your Gresen valve
https://www.parker.com/parkerimages...rvice Literature/Bul HY14-2702-M1 V11 DCV.pdf
Pay particular attention to some of the options, specifically a PB (Power Beyond) plug that's optional - if yours doesn't have it the loader valve may be just redirecting your flow back to tank WITHOUT developing any more pressure than it takes to move the fluid thru un-restricted piping.
I am TOTALLY unfamiliar with MF tractors, but Tractordata.com says it's an open center system - I'm pretty sure that, if I were adding a loader to that tractor, I would try to insert the loader valve BEFORE the 3PH using the loader valve's PB port, and finding a way for the "out" port on the loader valve to get back to Tank.
Timing - typically, if everything is hooked up right on a tractor that size then stroking all the cylinders back and forth maybe 5-6 times should purge any air - if you've done that much and STILL no real POWER, then your plumbing is wrong or the loader valve is toast
Also, if your loader valve IS "inserted" prior to the 3PH and you do NOT have the PB plug in the loader valve (IOW, if your "Tank" port is plumbed directly to the 3PH input) then there's a VERY good chance the seals in the loader valve's "OUT" section are blown - very few of that type valve are designed for full hydraulic pressure in the "Tank" gallery of the valve; that's one of the MAIN purposes of a PB "sleeve" - when it's installed, it SEALS OFF the "Tank" gallery from the high pressure, but still gives you "Power Beyond" the valve for another valve ... Steve
Here's the manual for your Gresen valve
https://www.parker.com/parkerimages...rvice Literature/Bul HY14-2702-M1 V11 DCV.pdf
Pay particular attention to some of the options, specifically a PB (Power Beyond) plug that's optional - if yours doesn't have it the loader valve may be just redirecting your flow back to tank WITHOUT developing any more pressure than it takes to move the fluid thru un-restricted piping.
I am TOTALLY unfamiliar with MF tractors, but Tractordata.com says it's an open center system - I'm pretty sure that, if I were adding a loader to that tractor, I would try to insert the loader valve BEFORE the 3PH using the loader valve's PB port, and finding a way for the "out" port on the loader valve to get back to Tank.
Timing - typically, if everything is hooked up right on a tractor that size then stroking all the cylinders back and forth maybe 5-6 times should purge any air - if you've done that much and STILL no real POWER, then your plumbing is wrong or the loader valve is toast
Also, if your loader valve IS "inserted" prior to the 3PH and you do NOT have the PB plug in the loader valve (IOW, if your "Tank" port is plumbed directly to the 3PH input) then there's a VERY good chance the seals in the loader valve's "OUT" section are blown - very few of that type valve are designed for full hydraulic pressure in the "Tank" gallery of the valve; that's one of the MAIN purposes of a PB "sleeve" - when it's installed, it SEALS OFF the "Tank" gallery from the high pressure, but still gives you "Power Beyond" the valve for another valve ... Steve
Yes I believe it is the loader valve, I inadvertently loosened the check valve. Have a friend bringing a torque wrench by tomorrow to set to correct torque. If that doesn’t resolve the issue then I will look at rebuilding the relief valve. Thank you for manual.